GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”

[George B]

Dealership says they believe it to be gear lash issue with the ring and pinion likely caused by an issue with the carrier bearings. I agree with the diagnosis. They indicated that it may be best to do a complete replacement of the front diff since it has been service for this once before according to the records. They quoted me $1700 parts and labor on a salvage yard part. I can do that kind of work myself so I will have to think on this one. I would rather buy a good re-manufactured unit with a longer warranty than 12 mo or 12k.

 

[George B]

this unit has a 2 year unlimited mile warranty.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9909432&cc=1505393&jsn=765&jsn=765&jsn=765

Gonna reach out to the dealer I bought it from and see if they will help me at all. Not likely but worth an email.

 

[swathdiver]

Dealership says they believe it to be gear lash issue with the ring and pinion likely caused by an issue with the carrier bearings. I agree with the diagnosis. They indicated that it may be best to do a complete replacement of the front diff since it has been service for this once before according to the records. They quoted me $1700 parts and labor on a salvage yard part. I can do that kind of work myself so I will have to think on this one. I would rather buy a good re-manufactured unit with a longer warranty than 12 mo or 12k.

If memory serves, fellas have paid about $1200 to get theirs rebuilt and if you do it yourself, which lots of guys on here have done, with photos, it costs about 2/3 less than that.

 

[George B]

Waiting to hear back from the dealer I bought it from but I doubt they will do anything for me. So looking at my options since a home rebuild is simply not in the cards.

1. Found a complete re-manufactured unit for around $800.00 through Rock Auto. Carries a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage.
2. A Jasper unit will run me around $1500.00 with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.
3. Got a quote on a Salvage take out for around $525.00 with about 100,000 miles on the vehicle clock. 90 day warranty for the part.
4. Chevy dealer quoted me $1700.00 installed on a salvage yard unit. 12 month/12,000 warranty. Mileage unknown.
5. Find someone to rebuild this one that will stand behind it.

Of course the first three are with me doing the swap. not an issue and probably only take a couple hours. 1 is pretty high on my choice list. 3 and 4 are not likely choices. 4 may be an option. I haven't called around to get other quotes or second opinions yet.

I can say I am a bit shy on a used one given some of the horror stories I have read about them being bad. I suppose I could get a bad reman or a poor rebuild job too.

Just sucks to be in this spot. This blows my wheel budget.

 

[swathdiver]

Waiting to hear back from the dealer I bought it from but I doubt they will do anything for me. So looking at my options since a home rebuild is simply not in the cards.

1. Found a complete re-manufactured unit for around $800.00 through Rock Auto. Carries a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage.
2. A Jasper unit will run me around $1500.00 with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.
3. Got a quote on a Salvage take out for around $525.00 with about 100,000 miles on the vehicle clock. 90 day warranty for the part.
4. Chevy dealer quoted me $1700.00 installed on a salvage yard unit. 12 month/12,000 warranty. Mileage unknown.
5. Find someone to rebuild this one that will stand behind it.

Of course the first three are with me doing the swap. not an issue and probably only take a couple hours. 1 is pretty high on my choice list. 3 and 4 are not likely choices. 4 may be an option. I haven't called around to get other quotes or second opinions yet.

I can say I am a bit shy on a used one given some of the horror stories I have read about them being bad. I suppose I could get a bad reman or a poor rebuild job too.

Just sucks to be in this spot. This blows my wheel budget.

#1 looks pretty good or you can do what I did, turn the radio up louder. No more noises to worry about!

 

[George B]

#1 looks pretty good or you can do what I did, turn the radio up louder. No more noises to worry about!

Being that the four wheel drive in my vehicles get a max of 100 miles a year and most all of that is under 50 mph I just might let this ride a while. I can always drop the diff and fix it over summer. I figure if I drain and fill the front diff and find no metal on the plug I will be ok. I am convinced after listening to it again today that it is the back lash for the ring and pinion since it makes noise on both acceleration and deceleration but can be eliminated if I feather the throttle just right when cruising. I am not one to run in 4 wheel much at all even 4-AUTO.

 

[George B]

Got my splash guards and have confirmed I will need to move and/or modify my running boards. I know I can slide them back but I don't want them poking into the rear wheel wells too far. I may need to modify them. I found the video in the link below but am unsure if I want to go that route or not. seems like a solid solution...

 

[skipp65]

Got my splash guards and have confirmed I will need to move and/or modify my running boards. I know I can slide them back but I don't want them poking into the rear wheel wells too far. I may need to modify them. I found the video in the link below but am unsure if I want to go that route or not. seems like a solid solution...

What splash gaurds did you go with?

 

[George B]

What splash gaurds did you go with?

I ended up going with some flat PlastiColor units from the local Farm&Fleet.

 

[George B]

I installed my splash guards over the weekend. I feel the end result is acceptable. Since I didn’t want to cut up the ends of my running boards just yet I ended up going a different route. What I did was sort of reform the ends of the running boards with my heat gun. I gained about 3/8” that way and then slid the boards back about 1/2”. Got just enough clearance to put the guards on. They have a slight static rub when they articulate but not much. Looks good to me.

Here is the factory board end.

Here is the modified end.

Here is how they fit up with the boards.

Final product minus a much needed wash.

 

[wjburken]

Waiting to hear back from the dealer I bought it from but I doubt they will do anything for me. So looking at my options since a home rebuild is simply not in the cards.

1. Found a complete re-manufactured unit for around $800.00 through Rock Auto. Carries a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage.
2. A Jasper unit will run me around $1500.00 with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.
3. Got a quote on a Salvage take out for around $525.00 with about 100,000 miles on the vehicle clock. 90 day warranty for the part.
4. Chevy dealer quoted me $1700.00 installed on a salvage yard unit. 12 month/12,000 warranty. Mileage unknown.
5. Find someone to rebuild this one that will stand behind it.

Of course the first three are with me doing the swap. not an issue and probably only take a couple hours. 1 is pretty high on my choice list. 3 and 4 are not likely choices. 4 may be an option. I haven't called around to get other quotes or second opinions yet.

I can say I am a bit shy on a used one given some of the horror stories I have read about them being bad. I suppose I could get a bad reman or a poor rebuild job too.

Just sucks to be in this spot. This blows my wheel budget.

if it were me, I’d go with the Rock Auto option. I replaced the front diff on my 2007 XL Denali and went the used route with one out of an Escalade with 85K on it for $895 shipped. Came with a decent warranty but can’t remember the specifics as that was 4 or 5 years ago and a couple vehicle changes ago. I do remember that I did have to show proof of install by showing receipts for the diff fluid since I installed myself. $800 with a 2 year warranty isn’t bad for a re-man IMHO.

If you do it yourself, make sure to have a friend help because that thing is awkward and plenty heavy to finagle it into position.

 

[George B]

I have already had enough of the AFM turning on and off while chugging along in town so I ordered the Range module. I asked around with the tuning shops local and got quotes higher than I wanted to pay. One was $650 to turn off the AFM and do a trans tune. I will wait until I have better cash flow and go with a Black Bear Tune someday. For now a Range will be good.

 

[George B]

Also, this thing is a pig on ice when the roads are snow and slop covered! Gonna snag this set of 17” steel wheels with the nuts and center caps for $150 and put a set of Falken Wild Peak AT3Ws on them. Will need to find some extra tpms sensors. I think its best to just run painted steel in the salty crap and save the nice 22” chrome wheels for fair weather.

 

[adventurenali92]

Also, this thing is a pig on ice when the roads are snow and slop covered! Gonna snag this set of 17” steel wheels with the nuts and center caps for $150 and put a set of Falken Wild Peak AT3Ws on them. Will need to find some extra tpms sensors. I think its best to just run painted steel in the salty crap and save the nice 22” chrome wheels for fair weather. View attachment 240807

I saw your other thread about the wheels. Those steelies will fit no problem and run fine in the winter. And yeah I agree save the shiny chrome 22s for summer. What tires are on your 22s? I assume probably Bridgestone duelers? If so, that’s why it’s garbage in the snow. Bridgestones are hands down the worst tires I’ve ever had on a vehicle. When the Bridgestones are done, save up for a set of Michelin defenders and you will love the difference!

 

[George B]

I saw your other thread about the wheels. Those steelies will fit no problem and run fine in the winter. And yeah I agree save the shiny chrome 22s for summer. What tires are on your 22s? I assume probably Bridgestone duelers? If so, that’s why it’s garbage in the snow. Bridgestones are hands down the worst tires I’ve ever had on a vehicle. When the Bridgestones are done, save up for a set of Michelin defenders and you will love the difference!

I have considered just that however I do get off road at times with the truck during the winter and spring so the steelies with A/Ts will be nice for that too. These 22s are already pitting some so on the interest of my pocket book they need to be protected from the salt. I was temped to just have a body shop paint the steelies gloss black with a good clear and run them all year round but I like the chrome wheels too.

 

[adventurenali92]

I have considered just that however I do get off road at times with the truck during the winter and spring so the steelies with A/Ts will be nice for that too. These 22s are already pitting some so on the interest of my pocket book they need to be protected from the salt. I was temped to just have a body shop paint the steelies gloss black with a good clear and run them all year round but I like the chrome wheels too.

Yeah that’s a good point. Steelies will be good for off pavement. Lol. Those 22s are one of my favorite wheels gm made for this gen suv. They look really good.

 

[George B]

I saw your other thread about the wheels. Those steelies will fit no problem and run fine in the winter. And yeah I agree save the shiny chrome 22s for summer. What tires are on your 22s? I assume probably Bridgestone duelers? If so, that’s why it’s garbage in the snow. Bridgestones are hands down the worst tires I’ve ever had on a vehicle. When the Bridgestones are done, save up for a set of Michelin defenders and you will love the difference!

How do the Defenders really perform in snow. It’s not but a couple rimes a year I run in snow but when I do it is important that I be in control.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I installed my splash guards over the weekend. I feel the end result is acceptable. Since I didn’t want to cut up the ends of my running boards just yet I ended up going a different route. What I did was sort of reform the ends of the running boards with my heat gun. I gained about 3/8” that way and then slid the boards back about 1/2”. Got just enough clearance to put the guards on. They have a slight static rub when they articulate but not much. Looks good to me.

Here is the factory board end. View attachment 240703

Here is the modified end.
View attachment 240704

Here is how they fit up with the boards.
View attachment 240705

Final product minus a much needed wash. View attachment 240706 View attachment 240707

I've noticed on my front Husky brand splash guards they have molded-in indentations. I have the non-retractable running boards, but by looking at your pics it looks like the indentations in these are to clear the retractable running boards.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[George B]

I've noticed on my front Husky brand splash guards they have molded-in indentations. I have the non-retractable running boards, but by looking at your pics it looks like the indentations in these are to clear the retractable running boards.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

Unfortunately no. I bought a set and tried. They would not work without cutting the caps on the running boards. I have to send them back. I ended up going with plain flat ones but I am pretty happy. Just wish they were longer and hung down a little further.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Unfortunately no. I bought a set and tried. They would not work without cutting the caps on the running boards. I have to send them back. I ended up going with plain flat ones but I am pretty happy. Just wish they were longer and hung down a little further.

Curious as to what these cutouts are for then

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18