I have never had a problem with one.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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where the bolt goes on it can pivot a little if it moves a little it wont make contact, if you ever loose your brake lights or cruise and the fuse and bulbs are good then check down under the dash and try pivoting the switch up. doesn't matter how tight the bolt is it can still move by hand it doesn't have a notch or ridges just smooth plastic edge on a smooth metal edge.
*when I had my 00 it happened a handful of times over 12 years, I thought the switch had gone bad and went to replace it and discovered it could turn a little, turned it back up and walla, I don't cruise much but whenever someone would say "you have no brake lights" I knew exactly what it was, hasn't happen on the 12 yet but it's the same design.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
I replaced my driver's seat bottom T.E.D. and it wasn't very fun to do, but it wasn't too bad once I unbolted the seat. Now my bun warmer works again, which makes me happy!
Geoffsfas10
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This is going to be a GIANT tease BUT.... i test fit my retrofit headlights......glory was had. Cut off is sharp, blue and purple. Now to finish them.
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Ordered Arnott air shocks for the rears. They are blown...Rock Auto 5% savings....
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
So Glad, new tires, and TPMS sensors... finally have pressures and the lights are all gone.
yeah yeah.. 40psi warm, don't mention it.
yeah yeah.. 40psi warm, don't mention it.
And a full tank of gas!So Glad, new tires, and TPMS sensors... finally have pressures and the lights are all gone.
yeah yeah.. 40psi warm, don't mention it.
View attachment 240269
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
I can't get enough e85.... zing! except for road trips when I want better economy.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
ha..exactly....im waiting til i have everything finished so I can make one thread...or i can make you guys all suffer for the next week or so as I slowly finish them and feed in pictures.
Make a thread and start with the pics. We want to see this.
I’m in the midst of part 3 or 4 or 5 of my LTZ / Escalade interior swap on my Silverado and yesterday I attempted a color change on a wrecking yard door panel. I stripped all the parts, cleaned with Super Clean and scotchbrite (which actually removed most of my fingerprints on my right hand so now my phone and tablet don’t recognize me anymore), scrubbed again with denatured and scotchbrite, sprayed a bit too heavy in a couple spots so the texture looked weird, cleaned all the paint off the whole panel, then while using a heat gun to dry it out I hit the tip of the gun on the speaker grill leaving a melted swipe. Should have given up, right? But noooo. I cut a grill out of a trashed panel I had with a dremel and made it fit perfect in the good panel. Then....sprayed a couple light coats of black and there it was...a weird looking paint pattern right where the original heavy paint was. The panel is possessed. I ordered a black one off eBay and vanquished this one to my growing parts pile.
trailblazer
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I did my first Oil Catch Can drain since I installed the ball valve drain. In only six days and 415 miles or so I drained almost 10oz of fluid! This is crazy. Guys at the BobIsTheOilGuy forum think my engine is bad even though it runs great. My oil level is staying the same and my coolant level hasn't changed.
Fosscore
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Been eyeballing my cracked dash bouncing around for sooo long. The constant rattling is driving me crazy.
So I decided to investigate further and see if I can come up with some sort of support and why it is cracking. Of course the endless posts around the net and here on the TYF have that detailed to a "T".
I used a plastic panel tool and very carefully popped the 4 tabs on the center speaker cover to reveal the culprit of the 2 center speaker cracks.
1. Zero support in the center of the dash where it meets the front split.
2. Heavy ass Bose center speaker held in place by 2 screws.
3. Zero support on/around/under the Bose speaker.
The speaker is only held in in place with 2 x 7mm screw into the thread inserts. Very thin tabs to stabilize the speaker and dash in the center with no support.
So moving forward now that we have some details.
I am not interested in removing/replacing the dash at this point.
I've thought about some hot glue or quick epoxy around the tabs to secure them from completely separating from the dash.
Any thoughts about the extended cracks out from the cracked tabs where the screws go in place?
I thought about some hot glue/epoxy and a small bit of plastic under the existing cracks to keep them from opening up or spreading (unlikely to stop that from happening). Maybe some double sided foam gasket to keep the the gap between the 2 dash pieces from bouncing around so much.
I played the stereo without the center speaker and although not perfect, not even sure if the wife would notice. That would take the stress off the dash or test fit a piece of foam or something soft to absorb the bump under the magnet to fill in that gap behind the head unit and support the bottom of the speaker and dash.
Just figuring since I have that opening to work with a bit, to shore up the areas a bit. Not rigid, but flexible or shock absorbing for the dash.
Open to thoughts and input as I am spitballing here. Thx guys.
Speaker attached and cracks spidering out.
Speaker removed and can see the cracks.
You can see the cracks originating from the screw holes from the center speaker. Where those threaded insert tabs are x 2 the plastic has cracked where the tab is so the only thing holding it in place is the insert.
I can access that front left crack perhaps to glue and seal it together again, since both sides of the crack have already terminated. May not prevent a new crack originating from another but could at least join that crack back together.
The bottom crack maybe could stop it from advancing.
Just leaving the speaker out would relieve the stress of the center of the dash or as mentioned above something soft to take the weight of the magnet from hanging directly down.
Close ups inside the void. Looking forward.
Looking top down.
So I decided to investigate further and see if I can come up with some sort of support and why it is cracking. Of course the endless posts around the net and here on the TYF have that detailed to a "T".
I used a plastic panel tool and very carefully popped the 4 tabs on the center speaker cover to reveal the culprit of the 2 center speaker cracks.
1. Zero support in the center of the dash where it meets the front split.
2. Heavy ass Bose center speaker held in place by 2 screws.
3. Zero support on/around/under the Bose speaker.
The speaker is only held in in place with 2 x 7mm screw into the thread inserts. Very thin tabs to stabilize the speaker and dash in the center with no support.
So moving forward now that we have some details.
I am not interested in removing/replacing the dash at this point.
I've thought about some hot glue or quick epoxy around the tabs to secure them from completely separating from the dash.
Any thoughts about the extended cracks out from the cracked tabs where the screws go in place?
I thought about some hot glue/epoxy and a small bit of plastic under the existing cracks to keep them from opening up or spreading (unlikely to stop that from happening). Maybe some double sided foam gasket to keep the the gap between the 2 dash pieces from bouncing around so much.
I played the stereo without the center speaker and although not perfect, not even sure if the wife would notice. That would take the stress off the dash or test fit a piece of foam or something soft to absorb the bump under the magnet to fill in that gap behind the head unit and support the bottom of the speaker and dash.
Just figuring since I have that opening to work with a bit, to shore up the areas a bit. Not rigid, but flexible or shock absorbing for the dash.
Open to thoughts and input as I am spitballing here. Thx guys.
Speaker attached and cracks spidering out.
Speaker removed and can see the cracks.
You can see the cracks originating from the screw holes from the center speaker. Where those threaded insert tabs are x 2 the plastic has cracked where the tab is so the only thing holding it in place is the insert.
I can access that front left crack perhaps to glue and seal it together again, since both sides of the crack have already terminated. May not prevent a new crack originating from another but could at least join that crack back together.
The bottom crack maybe could stop it from advancing.
Just leaving the speaker out would relieve the stress of the center of the dash or as mentioned above something soft to take the weight of the magnet from hanging directly down.
Close ups inside the void. Looking forward.
Looking top down.
I put some foam padding under my center speaker, just enough to keep it snug where it should be and then bolted it back in, the dash no longer bounces, I have 2 cracks near the speaker the one on the left is in almost the exact same place as yours then I have a smaller one over by the airbag on the thin spot.
if you put padding under the magnet glue it onto the bottom of the speaker or something the first time I did it the foam moved and the speaker started bouncing up and down again.
Fosscore
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Thx info. You do anything with the actual cracks either on top or underneath? Or best to leave it alone?
I have the skinny AirBag cracks too.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I taped foam to the bottom of my speaker also to give it some support. I don't have cracks in that area. I only have the small one at the upper left corner of the airbag
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
no, if it cracks anymore i'll just replace it
iamdub
Full Access Member
Looks like more condensation than oil. Judging by the rust on the power steering pump reservoir, I'd guess that you lived in a snowy area. It seems that those that live in cold climates get a lot of condensation buildup. Unless you do a lot of short trips that don't let the engine burn it off. 415 miles in 6 days is an average of 69 miles a day, so you'd have to do a lot of short drives with plenty of cool-down time in between each short drive.
In contrast, I'm in a warm climate and the 3 ounces I drain every 5,000 miles looks just like the oil that drains out of the pan.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I fixed my cracks with JB Weld black plastic epoxy. You're supposed to mix the two parts 50/50, but I added an extra dab of one pf the two parts, I forget which. But, it cured to almost exactly the same color as the dash. I know yours is tan but I wanted to mention that for anyone with a black dash. Aside from color, the epoxy itself works wonders. If it were me, I'd cut a popsicle stick in half, apply epoxy to one side of each half and press them to the underside of the dash, spanning the crack like stitches. Might need to stuff a rag or newspaper underneath to lift and support it slightly if that closes the crack a little more. Let the epoxy cure over night, then reinstall the speaker with dense plastic foam glued to the magnet to support it. I'd have the foam thick enough so that it squishes just a tiny amount so that there's a slight bit of upward pressure. It'll settle over time and the upward pressure would essentially "zero out" so there'd be practically no force, up or down, on the center of the dash. It'd be supported, but not rigid.
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