Before I would look for a draw on the system I would do the basics as suggested. New cables.
No start-“unknown driver”
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not suggesting you remove it unless it’s your last hope but in Michigan I’m sure remote start is a must. Heck, I’m in Virginia and use it daily. Is there a way to disconnect the alarm and do your battery overnight check again?
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Yes remote start is a must over here. I have a leased Dodge Journey in the family and it has a ton of miles left before the lease turn in come February. That’s the reason I stopped daily driving my Tahoe. I actually like the Tahoe better believe it or not.
Good question about disconnecting the alarm, I was wondering the same thing but I do not know how. I had it installed by a big company out here and it looks like a sloppy job under the hood. I accidentally disconnected one of the wires when working on the battery. Not even sure where this wire is suppose to go. I have no idea when it comes to electronics. Not sure if this is a ground wire or what it’s purpose is but I tested the remote start and alarm while it was disconnected and everything seamed to work fine.
Any thoughts?
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I just tried connecting it into where I drew a red circle around that metal. Not sure if it just needs to come into contact with some metal or what lol. I’m not the brightest crayon in the box when it comes to this stuff haha
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Well, Green wires are typically ground wires and hose clamps are not typical grounding connections.I just tried connecting it into where I drew a red circle around that metal. Not sure if it just needs to come into contact with some metal or what lol. I’m not the brightest crayon in the box when it comes to this stuff haha
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ok so maybe somewhere towards the firewall? is there a specific spot for it or just somewhere with a piece of metal sticking out?
Well, don't pull it out any further, like lengthening it, and as you move it around see where there is a spade male terminal with no wire on it and will likely be a clean male spade. Also, the female end on the end of the wire you are holding is kinked 90 degrees to the body of the wire so when looking for the plug in spot keep that in mind. Plus, what is that rusted twisted exposed metal wire in that picture. That does not look like a factory installed connector. Plus, what wjburken was saying is that any metal clamp wrapped completely around a RUBBER HOSE will never ever be a ground. The rubber is the insulator.
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Thanks for the tips and also the rusted twisted metal wire is a coat hanger to hold the alarm’s siren in place. Lol. I’m telling u this car audio place did a lousy job with the install and they are a very reputable place in Michigan with a lot of locations. I haven’t had the time to stop by one
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It is so rusted and out in the open that it has been that way for a while. Find a spot and mount it the right way. LOL!
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Found the male spade terminal you were speaking of. It is attached to the hood. Not sure what that unconnected hose like thing is for. Maybe factory alarm?
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I’m pretty sure there is no warranty left. The shop didn’t use the hanger. Lol. The siren came loose and I used the hanger, it was suppose to be temporary, I was going to use a zip tie for a cleaner look and never got around to it. Maybe I should? But not sure if the hanger holding the siren has anything to do with drainage?
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The spade terminal is attached to a mercury switch that tells the under hood light to turn on when hood is up. The cable should be replaced and reattached at the stud at the firewall where you can see in your pic where it is broke off. It is a ground wire.
Shouldn’t be any drainage from hanger but fix it anyway with zip ties until you can replace the stud. Don’t want any extra metal floating around under the hood. What have you tested so far? No need to keep tossing out ideas until the cables have been replaced or at least wire brushed and reinstalled or you’ve disconnected the battery and checked it overnight so we can eliminate some stuff.
Yes.
alaska_guy
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Lets start with... What year is your vehicle? Second, purchase a decent Digital Multi Meter. You can then use the meter across your fuses to look for a draw in amperage to find what is draining your battery, if in fact something is actually draining your battery.
unknown driver is common when the cluster does not communicate with the seat module via the Class 2 network. I didn't read everything, but did you check the fuse under the seat to see if it might be blown? Try moving the seat forward and backwards to see if perhaps you have a chaffed wire?
Good luck!
unknown driver is common when the cluster does not communicate with the seat module via the Class 2 network. I didn't read everything, but did you check the fuse under the seat to see if it might be blown? Try moving the seat forward and backwards to see if perhaps you have a chaffed wire?
Good luck!
OB 04Denali
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As dumb as it sounds, everytime im working on my truck and it goes dead from me leaving the lights on, testing and nodding things. Even after you jump it and you get unknown driver and your like aaa crap, take the radio 15 amp fuse out and them put it back in. For me it worked everytime. Why I have no idea. Try that one out. Hopefully it helps
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