What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

Loosened the LCA bolts and unbolted the bottoms of the struts and moved them so they'd drop past the LCA mounts when I lowered the frame. I dropped it down about an inch lower than where the spindles should have dropped it to, then tightened the LCA bolts and bolted the struts back where they normally go. After a short, spirited drive to settle things, I found that this made no difference in my net drop of 1.5". This confirms that the McGaughy's people are dirty, cheating, rotten liars and I hope they get ********** by mutant zebra apes with scalpel-like talons and cactus dicks.

Then I adjusted the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel and get just a touch of toe-in. The steering now feels like it did before all of this was started.

I then moved to the rear to install DJM rear sway bar offset end links, DJM rear lower control arm relocators, Belltech SP rear shocks and Autoride spoofing resistors. My traction control and ABS lights came on as soon as I started it up. It's always something!

Out of the 5 resistors I have, I'm hoping I just have a bad one. The remaining 4 on the work bench all measure exactly 4.4 ohms. They're supposed to be 3.9 ohms, but I guess there's a .5 ohm tolerance? Is the suspension system that sensitive to a .5 ohm variance? Stupid me didn't test them before I soldered, heat-shrinked and secured them.

This shit's wearing me down.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Which LED low beam did you order?

I ordered the H11-HLV6 set from SuperbrightLEDs. They are local to me ( try to support local places when I can ) and they are on clearance, plus 15% off with black friday etc. They will fit the K2 chassis without any modification to the core supports so thats good. IM half tempted to send em back though but I dont know how long til the retrofit happens and I need better lighting. Even the reviews have called out as good beam patterns in Tahoes so we will see. Hell if anything when Im done with them I will put them in my wife's equinox, which im sure will irritate her

 

[Rocket Man]

Loosened the LCA bolts and unbolted the bottoms of the struts and moved them so they'd drop past the LCA mounts when I lowered the frame. I dropped it down about an inch lower than where the spindles should have dropped it to, then tightened the LCA bolts and bolted the struts back where they normally go. After a short, spirited drive to settle things, I found that this made no difference in my net drop of 1.5". This confirms that the McGaughy's people are dirty, cheating, rotten liars and I hope they get ********** by mutant zebra apes with scalpel-like talons and cactus dicks.

Then I adjusted the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel and get just a touch of toe-in. The steering now feels like it did before all of this was started.

I then moved to the rear to install DJM rear sway bar offset end links, DJM rear lower control arm relocators, Belltech SP rear shocks and Autoride spoofing resistors. My traction control and ABS lights came on as soon as I started it up. It's always something!

Out of the 5 resistors I have, I'm hoping I just have a bad one. The remaining 4 on the work bench all measure exactly 4.4 ohms. They're supposed to be 3.9 ohms, but I guess there's a .5 ohm tolerance? Is the suspension system that sensitive to a .5 ohm variance? Stupid me didn't test them before I soldered, heat-shrinked and secured them.

This shit's wearing me down.

4.4 ohms should be fine. Are you sure you didn’t accidentally disconnect one of the harnesses? Seems to me I did that once, for some reason it seemed like it was easy to do. I don’t remember exactly, but I do remember wondering how the hell I did it.

 

[osidesurfer365]

Any word on this? Did you do any digging to find the source?

Couldn’t find anything. Going to possibly remove the headliner and take a better look when I have some time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DaRosa218]

Took a trip to the snow, lost the front heater but will blow hot in the back. Maybe a blender door issue?

In the meantime, here's a few pics I snapped real quick.

 

[DaRosa218]

Took a trip to the snow, lost the front heater but will blow hot in the back. Maybe a blender door issue?

In the meantime, here's a few pics I snapped real quick.

View attachment 235284 View attachment 235285

 

[iamdub]

4.4 ohms should be fine. Are you sure you didn’t accidentally disconnect one of the harnesses? Seems to me I did that once, for some reason it seemed like it was easy to do. I don’t remember exactly, but I do remember wondering how the hell I did it.

I'm gonna check. But, I didn't drop the axle down or anything since I drove it last. I just messed with a bunch of brackets and bolts.

I don't know the relevance, but the original Autoride shocks I took off are 2.7ohms.

Could it be because I only did the rear 2 and the front are still connected to the stock struts? I'll use some scrap wire to connect them temporarily to test...

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm gonna check. But, I didn't drop the axle down or anything since I drove it last. I just messed with a bunch of brackets and bolts.

I don't know the relevance, but the original Autoride shocks I took off are 2.7ohms.

Could it be because I only did the rear 2 and the front are still connected to the stock struts? I'll use some scrap wire to connect them temporarily to test...

check the abs sensor harness it sits right on top of the frame where the rear shock top bolt goes in, it's easy to accidentally unclip the abs harness right there, there is one on each side same location.

 

[DaRosa218]

Worst part of the trip was I lost the damn heater up front during the trip. Rear blows nice and hot, front is ice cold. I'm praying it isn't a heater core and something simple like a blender door. I tried doing an actuator reset through my Foxwell tool but didn't change a thing.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Someone asked for a video of the SLP resonator delete Finally got around to getting on uploaded.. No revs or dumb shit, just cold start to idle..

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Someone asked for a video of the SLP resonator delete Finally got around to getting on uploaded.. No revs or dumb shit, just cold start to idle..

sounds good....mine shows up wednesday

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Worst part of the trip was I lost the damn heater up front during the trip. Rear blows nice and hot, front is ice cold. I'm praying it isn't a heater core and something simple like a blender door. I tried doing an actuator reset through my Foxwell tool but didn't change a thing.

Sounds maybe like aspirator or blend door actuator, do you have dual climate up front? if one side went cold and other hot then Id suspect actuator, you could always try to raise or lower one side and see if the change makes blend doors move etc... the aspirator may throw them both off if synced up, the passenger has its own sensor in the box i believe.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

sounds good....mine shows up wednesday

Thanks, its just a little rumble over stock, just enough noise to say, "this isn't a soccer moms hauler"

Measure twice, cut once, put the new pipe up next to existing before cutting, verify the pipe will have enough to slide into new and make full seal. 15 minute install with a sawzall and impact...

 

[iamdub]

check the abs sensor harness it sits right on top of the frame where the rear shock top bolt goes in, it's easy to accidentally unclip the abs harness right there, there is one on each side same location.

As many times as I've mentioned this to other members with the same issues after lowering or lifting, I would be one to do it myself! I was very careful to not disturb the connection, but shit happens with a 10" wobble extension on an impact gun turning a bolt in a blind spot. I lost my steam last night and it's on my to-do list for today.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Thanks, its just a little rumble over stock, just enough noise to say, "this isn't a soccer moms hauler"

Measure twice, cut once, put the new pipe up next to existing before cutting, verify the pipe will have enough to slide into new and make full seal. 15 minute install with a sawzall and impact...

Yup thats all I want this time around. Something kinda quiet-ish

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Well....front windows tinted to match the rest and 5% brow across windshield

 

[iamdub]

4.4 ohms should be fine. Are you sure you didn’t accidentally disconnect one of the harnesses? Seems to me I did that once, for some reason it seemed like it was easy to do. I don’t remember exactly, but I do remember wondering how the hell I did it.

check the abs sensor harness it sits right on top of the frame where the rear shock top bolt goes in, it's easy to accidentally unclip the abs harness right there, there is one on each side same location.

As many times as I've mentioned this to other members with the same issues after lowering or lifting, I would be one to do it myself! I was very careful to not disturb the connection, but shit happens with a 10" wobble extension on an impact gun turning a bolt in a blind spot. I lost my steam last night and it's on my to-do list for today.

...Yup. That's exactly what it was. When the socket went crazy on that wobble extension in that tight space, it knocked the connector unplugged.

After soldering in the front resistors, the light never came back on.

Today's accomplishments:

A) Fixed ABS and Stabilitrak errors

B) Belltech struts in front set for maximum drop (supposed to be 2") but with .5" spacer on driver side to even out the Chevy lean. OF COURSE, they only dropped about half of what they were supposed to do. Whatever.

C) Mystery coils in rear- dropped exactly one additional inch over the McG coils, so 3.5"

D) Installed front AutoRide delete resistors

E) Topped it all off with some new-to-me shoes


Although I didn't get the amount of drop I was planning, I'm very happy with the stance. There's now only 1/8" difference side-to-side and the rear has a slight rake being 3/4" higher. More importantly, it rides and handles much better than expected. The mystery coils feel very much like stock, if not a hair softer and the shocks seem to compliment it well. I wanted it to ride softer but not feel too loose, and I feel I got what I wanted. I don't feel any odd steering dynamics, it feels pretty much like what I'm used to. As expected, I have some inner fender modding to do to stop the rubbing when turning, but I can catch that some other day. Currently tweaking the alignment to get it as good as I can to minimize the tire wear before I drive it to a shop.


...Pics later.

 

[kbuskill]

...Yup. That's exactly what it was. When the socket went crazy on that wobble extension in that tight space, it knocked the connector unplugged.

After soldering in the front resistors, the light never came back on.

Today's accomplishments:

A) Fixed ABS and Stabilitrak errors

B) Belltech struts in front set for maximum drop (supposed to be 2") but with .5" spacer on driver side to even out the Chevy lean. OF COURSE, they only dropped about half of what they were supposed to do. Whatever.

C) Mystery coils in rear- dropped exactly one additional inch over the McG coils, so 3.5"

D) Installed front AutoRide delete resistors

E) Topped it all off with some new-to-me shoes


Although I didn't get the amount of drop I was planning, I'm very happy with the stance. There's now only 1/8" difference side-to-side and the rear has a slight rake being 3/4" higher. More importantly, it rides and handles much better than expected. The mystery coils feel very much like stock, if not a hair softer and the shocks seem to compliment it well. I wanted it to ride softer but not feel too loose, and I feel I got what I wanted. I don't feel any odd steering dynamics, it feels pretty much like what I'm used to. As expected, I have some inner fender modding to do to stop the rubbing when turning, but I can catch that some other day. Currently tweaking the alignment to get it as good as I can to minimize the tire wear before I drive it to a shop.


...Pics later.

Maybe there is less gravity where you are???

 

[Sam Harris]

...Yup. That's exactly what it was. When the socket went crazy on that wobble extension in that tight space, it knocked the connector unplugged.

After soldering in the front resistors, the light never came back on.

Today's accomplishments:

A) Fixed ABS and Stabilitrak errors

B) Belltech struts in front set for maximum drop (supposed to be 2") but with .5" spacer on driver side to even out the Chevy lean. OF COURSE, they only dropped about half of what they were supposed to do. Whatever.

C) Mystery coils in rear- dropped exactly one additional inch over the McG coils, so 3.5"

D) Installed front AutoRide delete resistors

E) Topped it all off with some new-to-me shoes


Although I didn't get the amount of drop I was planning, I'm very happy with the stance. There's now only 1/8" difference side-to-side and the rear has a slight rake being 3/4" higher. More importantly, it rides and handles much better than expected. The mystery coils feel very much like stock, if not a hair softer and the shocks seem to compliment it well. I wanted it to ride softer but not feel too loose, and I feel I got what I wanted. I don't feel any odd steering dynamics, it feels pretty much like what I'm used to. As expected, I have some inner fender modding to do to stop the rubbing when turning, but I can catch that some other day. Currently tweaking the alignment to get it as good as I can to minimize the tire wear before I drive it to a shop.


...Pics later.

Sounds just right! Too bad I can’t see it.. I have to imagine.. [emoji2959]

 

[iamdub]

Stock:

1.5/2.5 drop:

3.25/4:

RST wheels:

The RST wheels were a bit of an impulse due to the price. They're not my first choice, but they were (mostly) black, had decent tires, TPMS sensors, lug nuts and they were a few miles from my house. Living where I do, nobody would have an RST, much less a modded one. So I considered it fate. Plus there's a little coolness factor having wheels from a factory performance model. They'll do for now.