New speakers - have a few questions

[Splorg]

I simply can't stand this anymore. The only thing that gave me pause when picking up my 01 Yukon was the fact that save the tweeters, every friggin speaker in the truck is blown, and not by a little. It's a non Bose system with a rear 8" sub, and speakers on the C pillars. Pillar speakers work, front door dome tweets work. The rest is toast. I can listen to spoken word stuff, but the high end is good for a blinding headache, and since the rear sub is shot so badly that it sounds like someone beating on a plastic trash can with a mallet it's just out of the question. I drive a lot. Music is important.

As I've mentioned, since this is a "work" vehicle my wife and I are having some budget..... disagreements. I smuggled in 4 Sony XS-R1346 5.25" 4 way speakers to do the doors (don't judge, I know they're crap, but anything has to be better than the ones in the truck now that don't work). The door panels are sure easy to get off, I'll give them that - but just glancing, those handy snap in brackets look a lot easier than shooting holes in my door. Anyone know if I can reuse them? Couldn't find a definite answer.

Next, I intend to smuggle a really, REALLY cheap DUAL brand (Walmart) 12" subwoofer and an enclosure, as cargo space isn't really a concern, and if I do it right I can just yank the box out if I have to and reclaim the space temporarily. No amp, just a box and a crappy sub. Anyone try this? I believe the sub is advertised at THREE HUNDRED WATTS but I didn't see a root mean square value on it. Even if the amp halfway drives it I'll be happy. Advice is welcome.

Oh, and I waxed it. Center caps for the wheels are coming. She still cleans up pretty nice!

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[drakon543]

if you do any walmart subs cut thier rated power down and drive them with that. if it says 300 just go with 200. also keeping an eye on crutchfield.com will be a benefit for you and your budget. they are always have good sales not 5 bucks off crap but real sales. they also have a list of refurbished stuff thats still good quality and they back it. plus you can input your specific truck and it will give you options that actually fit. they also have great free support even before you buy anything.

 

[Splorg]

My hope is that by spending another ~$50 now for a cheapo sub and enclosure, I can run the wires out the jack storage door so I can fix it correctly later AND not be divorced

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[drakon543]

well i definitely know where your coming from. your doing it because something needs to get done. i never leave vehicles alone just because i enjoy it. ive been allowed to mess with our 97 so far just as long as i have a convincing story to go along with it. now ive also got a 00 civic im playing with lol. start coming home and acting grumpy. after a few days when it actually starts bothering her go with a story about your ride home should be more relaxing and having speakers will help.

 

[Splorg]

Sage advice, sir! Thank you!

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[Splorg]

One more question - is this speaker okay, still? [emoji23]

New Sony's are in. I can now listen to music! That sub still needs addressed but one task at a time. Thanks for the advice, gang!

Happy father's day, if it applies to you as well!

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[Macks2DrTahoe]

One more question - is this speaker okay, still? [emoji23]

New Sony's are in. I can now listen to music! That sub still needs addressed but one task at a time. Thanks for the advice, gang!

Happy father's day, if it applies to you as well!

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That speaker is NOT okay. It is ready for the trash.

For your sub.. you have some options.
- You can replace that existing 8" sub with a new 8" sub just like you replaced the door speakers.

- You indicated 'No amp, just a box and a crappy sub.'
That box and sub will need some kind of amp to drive it so you will need an amp.

- Or you can go with a powered sub setup (sub and box with builtin amp). Something like Dual TBX10A 10 inch powered (crappy) sub if you are really on a low budget. What ever you get first check out how it sounds to see if its worth the price.

I found lots of audio/video help and recommendations on this forum and members willing to assist.

 

[adriver]

By continuing to read this post, you acknowledge that I take no responsibility for your relationship.

Heres how you can hide it:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/subwoofer-options-without-losing-cargo-space-swb.107846/

You will NEED an amp for your subwoofer. Don't bother installing one if you're not adding an amp. You can buy powered subs that would be incredibly easy to remove if you needed to, or just keep under the seat.

Personally, if budget was real tight, I would see what my options were on craigslist or offerup before I bought something I already knew was going to cheap crap. Especially when you have all that cargo room you don't care about losing. Your options are endless, but if you have to buy something new its going to be a lot, relative to what it sounds like your budget is.

I would have told you to hold off on the speakers a little longer. 100% expect EVERY audio shop/store/company/website to have some great deals for 4th of July, (they always do).

 

[Splorg]

No, I hear you - amp. My statement was based around the assumption that the 8" sub already connected is being powered by something other than the head unit - am I wrong there, because that changes the calculus of the thing.

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[adriver]

No, I hear you - amp. My statement was based around the assumption that the 8" sub already connected is being powered by something other than the head unit - am I wrong there, because that changes the calculus of the thing.

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There is an amp, its to the right of the sub.

 

[Splorg]

Isn't mine in the dash behind the glovebox? It's a non Bose. Since I know it still "works" using the factory audio amp and wires saves me quite a bit of of time and $, I'm just unsure if it will drive something small like a 2ohm load single coil sub. I was going to hook something up and cross my fingers.

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[Splorg]

Okay, a friend of mine gave me an Audiobahn aw1506t 15" 4ohm DVC sub. This changes the calculus of the whole thing.

My question is this - if I build/buy a box for this monster and buy an amplifier, can I run the amp off the signal from the factory subs wiring, or do I need to go back up to the head unit harness and use a line level converter there to get unamplified signal? I've helped guys put stereo gear in cars, and running wire isn't one of my stronger skills, so if it's reasonable to avoid it when possible I'd prefer it.

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[adriver]

That subwoofer is 1300w rated RMS. When you're running, that's rated at 90 amp draw, and that's when its playing at normal volume. If you crank it up, and hit it hard, its going to pull ~180 amps. To run that sub, you will need to: upgrade your alternator ($200-$600), possibly battery ($200-$300), you will need new power and ground wire ($100), (+other misc stuff to make it work (fuse holder, terminals ~$100+). That sub will drown out your sony speakers that you're running off head unit power. Its not a good fit for what you have. I would either try to sell or trade it for something smaller (hopefully already in a box, or with an amp).

 

[Splorg]

Oh, good Lord - thank you.

I had been looking as a fallback at a prebuilt, prepowered unit either from Fosgate, Kicker or Pioneer. I hate to spend the money (more accurately I don't mind, and I have it to spend, my wife and I just don't agree on me spending it on this particular vehicle - I don't think she likes it) but it would be nice to just run a power wire and a remote wire and be done with it.

That being said, I'm still a little confused as to just replacing the factory sub with an 8" shallow mount sub. If I go that route, do k need an additional amplifier or will the stock hardware drive it, if I choose the correct one? There are way too many listed on Amazon for me to shoot in the dark.

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[adriver]

You're going to need an amp for every sub you could get. Some come with the amp and sub built in (and box built in). They are small, and you just unplug them. They are about the size of a ….. big tv dinner (for one).

IMO, That 8" shallow sub is probably the one thing you don't want to do. The 8" shallow mount can transfer over to another vehicle, but if you buy it to fit in that small space, why would you? There's a very slim chance it would be a good fit in something else. If you don't mind losing the space, I would look for a decent deal on a full size sub. Probably a 10" or 12", I would probably look for a good package deal on craigslist for something that's used, good price, and lower wattage, so you might be able to get away with doing some small electrical upgrade, (and maybe find a seller who will be willing to help you install it). That way, you can always just take it right out of this, and use it in another vehicle. Then you can always say its not really money spent on the vehicle, its money spent for a stereo, that you can reuse in something else.

Those subs with the internal amps, and there own box, might be a good buy. Just like something much bigger you just unplug them and take them with you if you want. Those should be low wattage enough that you should be good with a 160 amp alt (that you can get at any auto parts store, or maybe used) if you don't already have it. If you can keep the wattage low enough, and something like that, you upgrade the alternator, and just run your big 3, and your amp's power, ground, and remote wire.

 

[BG1988]

sony is not too bad some of the older sony sub-woofers are going for a pretty penny I had one of the metal dust caps sold it for 40$ (bought for 85$) now someone is asking 400$ for a used pair... sucks

damn ES series (premium series)
the ring was thick rubber built to last quality product(unlike most of todays junk that only last a year and you have to throw it away)


they hit hard even with a 50 watt walmart amp i used... i used it for watching movies inside house... my neighbors hate me

I use a Z5500 Sub woofer ( modded to use as a sub only) those are freaking loud...


dont bag on that walmart amp that Amp lasted for 17 years (tell my grandpa passed away ) then my stupid uncle tossed it in the trash.. i'm sure it had another 20 years left

It had low impedance speakers connected 3 ohm even though it was rated for 8 ohm.

 

[Splorg]

So what I'm going to have to look for in an all in one unit or an amplifier if I go that route is a set of speaker level inputs if I don't want to run new signal wires, right?

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[Jeff Groves]

Being a work truck and you have a budget 'issue'? I'd just replace the speaker in the Sub Woofer box.
Crutchfield has some nice prices and the advisers you can chat with will help you.

 

[Splorg]

My understanding was if I directly replace the factory sub with something not the ludicrously expensive (for a Delco paper cone speaker) factory replacement it won't work without an additional amplifier - is that the case?

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[Sam Harris]

My understanding was if I directly replace the factory sub with something not the ludicrously expensive (for a Delco paper cone speaker) factory replacement it won't work without an additional amplifier - is that the case?

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It will work. Problem is just getting:

1. Shallow mount, to prevent running into the plastic cover
2. Get a low enough wattage sub, so the factory amp will get the job done.

I’m not sure what the factory sub is rated at, but I suspect as long as you don’t go crazy with the RMS / max power capabilities of the replacement, should be ok.