What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[dkknaebel]

Changed out my TBI. Bingo! The weird flutter and rich smell is gone from my truck. It's like it is brand new. Next thing up for replacement are my shocks, they are wore out. Need to sand and seal the roof rust spots and maybe finally put on my fender flares. Slowly but surely she is getting there.

 

[th3 shifty]

finished my header and Y pipe install last night... what a pain in the ass.. sounds good though... so far no check engine light for having no CATS in place

 

[99YukonSLT]

Popped a brake line last night apparently. Had no brakes this morning when I left for work. Managed to get it to work after lunch to check the fluid and see where it's leaking...of course, driver side, in the frame, by the gas tank. Luckily summit racing had them in stock. Now to find the time and space to replace it while it's in the 20's and supposed to snow.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Found out I am getting gpas c1500 rcsb 4.3tbi tomorrow with 65k miles. Other than the peeled clear it should be like a time capsule. Anything I should be looking for? Want to drive it a short while to its new home. It hasnt ran in awhile. Should be no rust but im worried about brakes.

 

[PG01]

Found out I am getting gpas c1500 rcsb 4.3tbi tomorrow with 65k miles. Other than the peeled clear it should be like a time capsule. Anything I should be looking for? Want to drive it a short while to its new home. It hasnt ran in awhile. Should be no rust but im worried about brakes.

I would pull it onto the street and give it a few good brake pedal tests... first, if possible, get it up to 10-15 mph while holding the brake pedal lighty to clean off any rust and let them cool. Then again up to 10-15 and a few firm and hard almost panic stop-ish, if something is gonna pop thats when it will... my 2cents

 

[liquify33]

I did the restrictor plate delete.
Now off to the gas station. Again.

 

[89Suburban]

Popped a brake line last night apparently.... Now to find the time and space to replace it while it's in the 20's and supposed to snow.

Never fails huh? I have that luck a lot lol.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I would pull it onto the street and give it a few good brake pedal tests... first, if possible, get it up to 10-15 mph while holding the brake pedal lighty to clean off any rust and let them cool. Then again up to 10-15 and a few firm and hard almost panic stop-ish, if something is gonna pop thats when it will... my 2cents

Thanks. If the fluid looks bad Ill just do a flush there. I'm really hoping the gas hasnt gone bad.

 

[PG01]

Thanks. If the fluid looks bad Ill just do a flush there. I'm really hoping the gas hasnt gone bad.

Id be careful with them bleeders tho, chances are, rust or not, they’re gonna snap....as far as the gas, a few bottles of dry gas, some octance boost additive or a few gallons of super on top of whats in there and i think you'll be good... again... my 2cents

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Id be careful with them bleeders tho, chances are, rust or not, they’re gonna snap....as far as the gas, a few bottles of dry gas, some octance boost additive or a few gallons of super on top of whats in there and i think you'll be good... again... my 2cents

Fingers crossed the bleeders dont snap I guess. I'll be careful with em.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Is there a definitive brake upgrade guide?

I see Lots of different information with the only real agreed upon thing being a hydroboost upgrade. Or swap everything out which appears to be more $ than I am thinking about spending on this little RCSB with a 4.3tbi in the near future.

I hate to replace something with the exact same oem part if for a little more money or work I could have a better performing system.

I'm reading about a lot of guys deleting the rw abs on the early trucks. Mine is a 94.

I skimmed the 20 pages nbs mc upgrade thread and that has mixed reviews. Nak says prop valve and rear drum upgrade to 11" is a good idea?

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Is there a definitive brake upgrade guide?

I see Lots of different information with the only real agreed upon thing being a hydroboost upgrade. Or swap everything out which appears to be more $ than I am thinking about spending on this little RCSB with a 4.3tbi in the near future.

I hate to replace something with the exact same oem part if for a little more money or work I could have a better performing system.

I'm reading about a lot of guys deleting the rw abs on the early trucks. Mine is a 94.

I skimmed the 20 pages nbs mc upgrade thread and that has mixed reviews. Nak says prop valve and rear drum upgrade to 11" is a good idea?

I did the hydroboost, didnt swap anything else. Sucker stops hard and the pedal feels great. It was a pain in the ass but if you can pull it off yourself you will be happy with it.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Cleaned up battery cable connections and replaced the ****** dorman positive side bolt with a rockford which tightened down nicely.

Cleaned up the earths on the thermostat housing and one I saw under the dash.

Finally tightened down my pitman arm on the shaft fully as I didn't have the right size wrench when I put the steering gear and arm in. (I used a 1" 5/16, but think 1" 1/4 was probably the right size.)

Cleaned the excess grease from my shiny new steering linkage parts while I was under there.

Lubed my steering shaft where it goes through the firewall rubber bit, and put a little grease at the top of the plastic rag joint cover as the shaft was rubbing in both places.

Spent 10 mins under the dash looking for what could be the cause of my electrical gremlins. (Alarm install is a bit shoddy, yellow alarm wire loosely wrapped around an oem white with the insulation cut away and wrapped with a bit of black tape that was falling off.)

Taking a look at the rear brakes tomorrow. My pedal is extra awful right now.

PS.
Always seems that any time I improve voltage, ie new battery, charged battery, or today cleaning up corrosion on battery cables and grounds etc there is a noticeable improvement in performance. I've never owned a vehicle that is so sensitive in that way. Or perhaps there's something weak in my electrical system? Most of it is original.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I did the hydroboost, didnt swap anything else. Sucker stops hard and the pedal feels great. It was a pain in the ass but if you can pull it off yourself you will be happy with it.

Drove it home today! Brakes were better than i expected.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Drove it home today! Brakes were better than i expected.

View attachment 216678

Nice. How bout some pics.

 

[PG01]

Cleaned up battery cable connections and replaced the ****** dorman positive side bolt with a rockford which tightened down nicely.

Cleaned up the earths on the thermostat housing and one I saw under the dash.

Finally tightened down my pitman arm on the shaft fully as I didn't have the right size wrench when I put the steering gear and arm in. (I used a 1" 5/16, but think 1" 1/4 was probably the right size.)

Cleaned the excess grease from my shiny new steering linkage parts while I was under there.

Lubed my steering shaft where it goes through the firewall rubber bit, and put a little grease at the top of the plastic rag joint cover as the shaft was rubbing in both places.

Spent 10 mins under the dash looking for what could be the cause of my electrical gremlins. (Alarm install is a bit shoddy, yellow alarm wire loosely wrapped around an oem white with the insulation cut away and wrapped with a bit of black tape that was falling off.)

Taking a look at the rear brakes tomorrow. My pedal is extra awful right now.

PS.
Always seems that any time I improve voltage, ie new battery, charged battery, or today cleaning up corrosion on battery cables and grounds etc there is a noticeable improvement in performance. I've never owned a vehicle that is so sensitive in that way. Or perhaps there's something weak in my electrical system? Most of it is original.

I know you said you cleaned up grounds but I would seriously consider going over every single one again and replacing the neg from battery, motor to firewall, etc. gm does stupid stuff with their grounds.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Thanks for the advice, but they are so clean already. There is so little corrosion on this S Cal truck. Here's a pic of the two earth straps on the passender side frame rail. I thought they were corroded and cleaned them up a little, but it was just surface. I wiped them with some dilectric grease on a rag and they looked like this.


Battery cables and ground


I'm from the UK where any vehicle that's over about 5 years old is a rust bucket. My truck still amazes me almost every time I get under it.

I've wanted to do the 'big 3' but it just doesn't seem necessary.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Pulled it out of grandpas garage. Added coolant, swapped a battery, and drove it home.

Ordered a bunch of stuff from rockauto. New rad hoses, wiper blades, and belt.


Need to clean out the blower fan. Sounds like some junk is in there. Hopefully not a mouse nest...

 

[TheAutumnWind]

No cracks in the dash

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Pretty good looking under the hood.