What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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M3kanic

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Definitely should have the hydraulic ones if they're original. And this would be quite an accomplishment, indicating easy driving and very easy accelerating when towing. Regardless of the stresses induced on the mounts, you'd think that the sheer age of the rubber would overcome all that easy driving and it'd crack and leak anyway. Maybe you live in an environment better suited for the livelihood of rubber? In my area, quality windshield wipers are dry and streaky after about 6 months and may last a year if you park in a garage.
It was originally out of Tampa then I bought it and had it upstate NY 30 miles from Canada for two winters and now I'm in Virginia on the coast. But I don't drive it easy unless I'm towing. My wife may drive it easier than I do.

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mikeyss

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Knock on wood. I tow a 6500 lb camper and have 152k on mine and still have the OEM engine mounts.

I'm almost at 150k, I don't tow and I'm the second owner of my Tahoe LTZ, motor mounts are original on mine too. Maybe the light L9H is easier on the mounts? Mine aren't showing any signs of needing replaced any time soon either
 

Rocket Man

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If you guys are second owners, how can you tell if the motor mounts are original?
 

M3kanic

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If you guys are second owners, how can you tell if the motor mounts are original?
Honestly I don't. For the first 60k mine was dealer maintained then for the second owner I don't know. I bought mine at 85k. So there is 25k that I can't account for.

While it was dealer maintained they did a really good job of it and kept really good records of everything.

I believe when the second owner got rear ended they traded it in and that's when I got it. No frame damage and you can still stick a magnet to the metal bits. So the repair was pretty good other than the chrome trim pieces.

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mikeyss

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If you guys are second owners, how can you tell if the motor mounts are original?

I Looked at all of the previous service records included with my purchase. Also the heads of the bolts don't have any marks on them. Most of the time, when a part is replaced, the nut or bolt that was removed will have marks from the wrench or socket. There's no signs anything was touched there. When I did my shocks and struts, all the bolts had no marks on them. Now they do, haha.
 

Rocket Man

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I Looked at all of the previous service records included with my purchase. Also the heads of the bolts don't have any marks on them. Most of the time, when a part is replaced, the nut or bolt that was removed will have marks from the wrench or socket. There's no signs anything was touched there. When I did my shocks and struts, all the bolts had no marks on them. Now they do, haha.
If you use good tools and are careful there shouldn’t be any tell tale signs.[/QUOTE]
 
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Doubeleive

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Flushed 64oz thru the power steering, looks like it's going to take more still looks kinda nasty

IMG_20181201_131903.jpg
 

Doubeleive

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so this is the Borla from inside and outside, sorry my windshield wipers are noisy, it's kind of passive/aggressive quiets down a lot when just cruising but my phone mic is very sensitive, there is definitely a different sound than the flowmaster. this is the Borla xr1 sportsman
 

Doubeleive

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I need to do that. Was it easy?
very easy with a small hand pump, I just pumped into a mcdonalds cup so I could add back the same amount I took out, jacked up the front wheels and turned them back and forth all the way a bunch times/rinse and repeat, I ran 64oz thru it but it's still looking kinda dark so i ordered 2 more bottles and will do it one more time. I read it basically takes a gallon to flush it which seems accurate 1/2 gallon is not quite enough
 

BourbonNcigars

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Traded in a Wrangler on a 2010 Tahoe last week. Brought it home and detailed it, only for some degenerate to break into it via the driver's side window last night. Today I cleaned broken glass out of it and made phone calls to arrange getting it repaired. Not the best way to start out with it.
 

Doubeleive

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Traded in a Wrangler on a 2010 Tahoe last week. Brought it home and detailed it, only for some degenerate to break into it via the driver's side window last night. Today I cleaned broken glass out of it and made phone calls to arrange getting it repaired. Not the best way to start out with it.
bummer, may I recommend

https://www.viper.com/
 

BourbonNcigars

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^ I dismantled the DIY table top I made to store my Jeep hardtop on so I can park in the garage now. Granted, that won't help away from home...
 

iamdub

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If you use good tools and are careful there shouldn’t be any tell tale signs.

Ever replaced mounts in these things? It's not worth trying to be gentle and I don't see someone removing and replacing all 14 bolts with the necessary wobble extension(s) and/or U-joint adapter(s) and/or ratcheting box end wrenches without leaving a trace! lol
 

Rocket Man

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Traded in a Wrangler on a 2010 Tahoe last week. Brought it home and detailed it, only for some degenerate to break into it via the driver's side window last night. Today I cleaned broken glass out of it and made phone calls to arrange getting it repaired. Not the best way to start out with it.
Sorry to hear about that. Things should only get better now.
 

Rocket Man

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Ever replaced mounts in these things? It's not worth trying to be gentle and I don't see someone removing and replacing all 14 bolts with the necessary wobble extension(s) and/or U-joint adapter(s) and/or ratcheting box end wrenches without leaving a trace! lol
I haven’t but keep in mind people who do this for a living prolly have the special tools to make it easier. I don’t see a shop struggling with things like the home mechanic sometimes does. They generally take things apart more thoroughly, ie the shops that insisted they couldn’t swap out my cam without pulling the heads. I did it myself but that’s not how the service manual says so they wouldn’t attempt it. I wonder what all they pull off to replace a motor mount on one of these. Probably everything that’s in the way.
 

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