Drok
Full Access Member
Oh dont get me wrong guys i still love how it sounds and will probably keep it on. Its probably just some phase im going through. Haha.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
And don't forget the two long 10mm bolts in the brackets underneath by the fog lights.
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
Good grief, how did you get close enough for a photo... I have a plastic shroud on the back of my engine that I can't work around... All I can see is the plug through the shroud, USPS isn't here yet, but I'm on hour 2 or so, I can't get the socket to set down on the sensor, I have the same set up as you.This ^. I did mine a few months ago. Jesus. Have normal to small hands.
It can be done without taking anything major off. Took me 45 painstakingly minutes.
I did not replace the filter.
I was not ready to attempt to fight that battle.
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Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
Apparently Autozone's OEM brand 1 1/16 Oil Switch socket is a POS, too tall too fat... now I'm stuck at home(wife is out) and I can't do the job.
93blkongreenpro
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
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Does you no good right now, but this is what I used. The OEM socket had bad reviews on amazon, so I i skipped over it.
Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_3ag8BbR8A5803
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Took it through the car wash, filled up with gas then got it inspected at a place about 20 miles away 'cuz the guy said he wouldn't hassle me about the tint. Got home to see my sway bar bushings were delivered so now I'm probably gonna put them on. Might do other stuff, too.
First wash in months:
First wash in months:
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
It's ok, my local Oreilly's has the Lisle one... yeah I read the review of the OEM socket.. I have the receipt, I should have listened to my Mechanic at work... he offered to lend me his..
osidesurfer365
Full Access Member
Try using a longer extension to get a little more leverage. I had to use a 45 degree pic tool to rip the filter out. Not easy but mine needed it. Hope it works out man.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
Yeah the one from Autozone is too thick and too tall so it won't seat down on the sensor no matter what...(AC lines or other lines hit the top of it/and or swivel)
the Lisle brand one is shorter and thin walled which lets it slide over the sensor, with clearance... I did hack away some of the plastic shroud on the back of the engine to give me better wrist clearance, I can't see any real reason for the shroud on the back of the engine. My 95 was much easier.
osidesurfer365
Full Access Member
I had to do the same. Another worthless piece of plastic that annoyed the ever living shit out of me. Neighbors I’m sure were wondering what the hell I was doing.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Replaced all four sway bar bushings. Took about an hour total- I don't know what @swathdiver's problem is 
. I'd go for a test drive but now I wanna get involved in other things. More to come...
. I'd go for a test drive but now I wanna get involved in other things. More to come...
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I think so. In my racing days we had a y-pipe because of the turbocharger but after that it split and went into a crossflow muffler which I maintained on some cars or went to dual mufflers on others. Either way, there were two exhaust pipes, one on each side which I like. However, those cars were fueled from the rear and I wouldn't want to burn or soil our clothes while trying to full up unless we got into the habit of standing by the tire. I'm in no hurry so such thoughts have been placed on the back burner.
Those Cadillac rear duals look cool and I wonder if that would translate to a Yukon XL with a full size spare.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Replaced all four sway bar bushings. Took about an hour total- I don't know what @swathdiver's problem is
Rust! That's my problem! Rotten Yankee rust!!! LOL
It's permanently fixed now, just not pretty. In my buddies barn, we took a piece of scrap metal and made it into a tab, then he welded it to the end of the swaybar bracket and drilled a hole through it and the frame (I cringed) and then used a nut and bolt to secure it. So far so good, been off road and it didn't break. But someday I'd like to get that old busted bolt out and make it look like it never even happened.
iamdub
Full Access Member
After replacing those sway bar bushings, I decided it was time for some simple aesthetic improvements.
I christened my new heat gun by using it to shave the finger pad off the back glass.
Before:
![IMG_1590[1].JPG](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/attachments/img_1590-1-jpg.210967/ "IMG_1590[1].JPG")
After:
![IMG_1594[1].JPG](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/attachments/img_1594-1-jpg.210968/ "IMG_1594[1].JPG")
^^^ Oh yeah, I continued on by peeling off that scratched "chromed" bow tie...
... And painting it with some ACDelco touch-up spray paint I found late one night in a dusty corner of teh interwebz. I used some clear coat I got from an auto paint supply store a few years ago. Last time I tried this stuff it made the color really hazy so I practiced on a spare broken mirror cap. Pleasantly surprised, I proceeded and am very happy with the results! The clear laid deep and flat. No orange peel:
The color is plenty close enough to this OEM color-keyed door handle. The bowtie looks to have a very slight bronze tint to it by comparison and this pic makes it stand out worse than it does in person. It'll completely blend in with the body once installed and you'd have to really be looking for a difference:
...Which brings me to revealing another little surprise. I stumbled upon a full set of nearly-perfect OEM Graystone Metallic door handles about a week ago on ebay. My guess is they were taken off when nearly new to be replaced by chrome ones and were stored ever since. I wasn't totally in the market cuz I planned on trading someone their color-matched handles and mirror caps for my chrome LTZ pieces. But the deal for these new ones was way too good to pass up. Buying them is what prompted me to buy that touch-up paint so I could paint the mirror caps.
I christened my new heat gun by using it to shave the finger pad off the back glass.
Before:
After:
^^^ Oh yeah, I continued on by peeling off that scratched "chromed" bow tie...
... And painting it with some ACDelco touch-up spray paint I found late one night in a dusty corner of teh interwebz. I used some clear coat I got from an auto paint supply store a few years ago. Last time I tried this stuff it made the color really hazy so I practiced on a spare broken mirror cap. Pleasantly surprised, I proceeded and am very happy with the results! The clear laid deep and flat. No orange peel:
The color is plenty close enough to this OEM color-keyed door handle. The bowtie looks to have a very slight bronze tint to it by comparison and this pic makes it stand out worse than it does in person. It'll completely blend in with the body once installed and you'd have to really be looking for a difference:
...Which brings me to revealing another little surprise. I stumbled upon a full set of nearly-perfect OEM Graystone Metallic door handles about a week ago on ebay. My guess is they were taken off when nearly new to be replaced by chrome ones and were stored ever since. I wasn't totally in the market cuz I planned on trading someone their color-matched handles and mirror caps for my chrome LTZ pieces. But the deal for these new ones was way too good to pass up. Buying them is what prompted me to buy that touch-up paint so I could paint the mirror caps.
View media item 27367View media item 27368View media item 27369disabled the Bose active noise cancellation (anc), there is literally a thread or two on the internet about it and people say you have to cut some wires under the console, but NO PICTURES! really? one youtube video showed the wires to cut, lol
iamdub
Full Access Member
Temporarily stuck it in place for pics:
I'm wondering if I should've left that outer part chrome. I may fill the thin area between the outer edge and raised center with gloss black. Since I'm doing away with all the chrome, I think I'll just do that black line.
I'm wondering if I should've left that outer part chrome. I may fill the thin area between the outer edge and raised center with gloss black. Since I'm doing away with all the chrome, I think I'll just do that black line.
shreksbrother
Full Access Member
Love the monochromatic look without the chrome!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Thank ya! Yeah, after more thought, I'm definitely not gonna have the chrome outer edge. I'd have to find a stock bow tie and start all over again for that and then it would stick out cuz I'm de-chroming the whole thing. I'm still considering painting that thin recessed area gloss black. It kinda looks like when body shops paint a replacement panel but are too lazy to remove the badging/emblems. I think the gloss black will make it look more "intentional" and contrast better since I plan to get black wheels at some point.
shreksbrother
Full Access Member
Go for it! You can always reshoot it if it looks crappy [emoji16]
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
What do you tow Chris with a coupler height that high? I use a 6" drop, got away with 5-1/4" but 6" put trailer level. The ones I've towed are 16" and 18" high and I'm at 24".
Wes, I don't think I've ever seen so many Cheeto and french fry crumbs under a console in my life! LOL
