Hide amplifier under console? Where to run power wires?

[91RS]

I'm in the planning stages of potentially getting rid of the crappy Bose. My two main issues are money and space. This thread isn't necessarily about component selection so space is my issue. I searched but I'm not sure if I'm using the right words to find what I was looking for but only found two threads with no pictures.

Since newer amplifiers have gotten so small, I'm pretty sure a 5 channel amplifier can fit in place of the stock Bose amp "under" the console. My main concern with this is there enough airflow/room so the aftermarket amplifier won't overheat. Is there any other place to hide the amplifier that wouldn't involve drilling holes in expensive and/or discontinued interior trim panels?

Also, where does everyone run the power wires inside? Where the big wiring harness goes through on the driver side seems like the easiest place but then the wire has to cross the engine compartment to get there from the battery and then has to go by the parking brake ratchet. What about the ground? I know lots of install places ground to the body but that doesn't seem like that would be the greatest ground unless the ground strap from the engine to the firewall was upgraded. The last two vehicles I've done system's in have had the battery in the trunk which made things so much easier!

 

[Doubeleive]

I will just say your going to be pretty unhappy with replacing that "crappy bose" unless you spend some money on quality component speakers. that's just my 2 cents of input. it's been done over and over and over.
as for power if you plan on upgrading to 0 gauge or something better than the stock wire then you can either run a second battery in the drivers side tray or run wire along the firewall or under the frame and come up under the floor panel, coming direct thru the firewall on the passenger side may be tricky or not possible because the heater core and ac/duct system is all right there under the glove box.
if you plan to just change the Bose amp and nothing else then prepare to be very disappointed it will not sound better it will sound like a tin can speaker system

since I have been down this road on previous trucks I personally just changed the head unit and used the proper adapters to interface with the Bose system dialed in the EQ settings and added a dual 12" box and 4000 watt amp in the rear and it sounds just as good without spending another 2k+ if the space is needed in the back on occasion I can simply unplug the amp and box and pull it out, no harm no foul.

 

[91RS]

I should have been more clear, I will definitely be upgrading the speakers and I'm not intending to use any of the factory wiring. I'm looking at HAT and Audiofrog for some good but cost effective speakers.

I wasn't planning on 0 gauge. I'm considering putting a different amplifier into my car and moving the Digital Designs D5.1000 to the Escalade so that I only have to run one amplifier in the Escalade. Since I've already lost 1/3 of my trunk space in the car to the subwoofer box, it isn't really a big deal to run two amplifiers there. The DD amp only requires 4 gauge wire and I don't see me needing 1000 watts for the subwoofer in an open SUV so that will cut down on the power usage.

 

[Doubeleive]

shouldn't have to worry about overheating there is plenty of air pocket space inside the center console but if it is a concern it would very easy to hook up a variable speed 12v fan (like ones used in a pc) that would make some blow-by air, on the low to med setting there virtually silent and the amp turn on signal would be sufficient power so there would be no need for any kind of relay.

 

[Meccanoble]

Regarding the center console, there is enough ventilation to run an amp. If you take out the stock subwoofer (really only way you will fit anything descent down there), you can fit an amp or 2 depending on sizes. I installed a PPI 900.4 down there which is on the smaller side of amps and have room for a micro amp. I wish I kept record of the dimensions but I believe you have close to 10 inches of width and a good 15-20 inches length to run something without any custom work fitting them. This is still witht he bose amp installed. Bose amp sits under the armrest while you have all that space from cup holders to under the radio for an amp. The bose amp is super short and is able to fit under a bracket that helps keep the center console/arm rest in place. I seen cases where people remove the bracket and are fine with the additional movement you may get from the center console but I was worried it would be too much. If you keep it and remove the bose amp, that gives you very little room for a shallow micro amp. When I drive at night, I tend to have music blasting for long periods of times (hours almost continuously). The amp plays a role with how much abuse it can take but it has done well for me in that location.

Regarding power wire, I received a great recommendation from someone on here which worked wonderfully. Ran power wire on passenger side. drilled a hole on passenger foot well which made for easy install under center console. Wire went right under the battery tray.

 

[91RS]

I guess I neglected to mention that I have an Escalade to my stock Bose amp is gigantic. I was thinking removing the stock sub would give me more room or at least more airspace. The DD D5.1000 is pretty small at 15" x 5" x 2".

So where exactly did you drill the hole? That sounds like that could work, just have to make sure the wire can't rub through on the body.

 

[Wolfbraid]

I guess I neglected to mention that I have an Escalade to my stock Bose amp is gigantic. I was thinking removing the stock sub would give me more room or at least more airspace. The DD D5.1000 is pretty small at 15" x 5" x 2".

So where exactly did you drill the hole? That sounds like that could work, just have to make sure the wire can't rub through on the body.

Definitely put a grommet in any hole you cut.

 

[91RS]

Right but a 4 gauge wire doesn't bend that much so if there is too much pressure it can rub through a grommet or push it out.

I ended up buying some Hybrid Audio Unity components for the front and I'll either run the stock rear speakers off the aftermarket amp for a while or maybe just the front stage only until I have some money for better rear speakers. I'm deciding between an Fi SSD 12" sub or the SSA Icon 12" sub for my car and then the PSI 10" from my car will go in the truck.

 

[bottomline2000]

Right but a 4 gauge wire doesn't bend that much so if there is too much pressure it can rub through a grommet or push it out.

I ended up buying some Hybrid Audio Unity components for the front and I'll either run the stock rear speakers off the aftermarket amp for a while or maybe just the front stage only until I have some money for better rear speakers. I'm deciding between an Fi SSD 12" sub or the SSA Icon 12" sub for my car and then the PSI 10" from my car will go in the truck.

Higher grade power wire can easily bend. I have 0 gauge JL Audio wire and it's like a wet noodle. Welding wire is cheap, but it's stiff as a board..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[91RS]

The power wire I have is Monster Cable. It isn't stiff as a board but I wouldn't call it a wet noodle. I do have some wire from a Kicker install kit I saved from somewhere that is pretty flexible. I plan on running the ground all the way to the battery as well. I said what I said to emphasize safety is key, I'm not interested in my truck going up in flames because of the Bose sounds like garbage!

 

[Meccanoble]

I used TruConnect 0 gauge amp kit with no issues. Used a grommet ofcourse. After removing wheel well, you can see a layer where it looks a little easier to drill. I just wanted to make sure the hole wouldnt hurt anything inside the car but also wanted to avoid passenger from feeling cable when stepping which is dam near impossible with all the layers. But you'll find a comfy spot. That amp you suggested is pretty thin. I used one of the screws that holds the stock subwoofer as a ground (the one closer to the amp while using the other 2 up front under radio to hold a mounting board for the amp down. That amp should definitely fit where stock sub is.

The fact that the stock amp is much bigger on the Bose LUX makes me wonder if they use a different metal bracket under center console. Any pics of the stock LUX bose installed? I'll be shocked if its in the same place as my regular bose amp.

 

[91RS]

OK, that was exactly my concern as I was picturing in my head running them in on the flat spot of the floor. That's good to know that there's a spot further up because I was thinking that would be ideal.

I will try and remember to get a picture, I bought a used console since my original one was pretty beat up and I've still got the old one so it'll be easy.

 

[Meccanoble]

There are some things in the middle that may make it difficult for an easy install. There is this area seperating where stock amp (mine atleast) and the stock sub. Wires, and it thins out and....just not as easy of a space to use but I'm still a rookie so you probably will have no issues making something work if you wanted to use the entire area but for certain you got more than enough clearance if you use the space where stock sub was.

 

[91RS]

Here's my stock amp (yes, the console was disgusting). It is just over 12" long, 6 1/2" wide, and 2 5/8" tall. The DD D5.1000 is 15" long but I think it should work. Now I've either got to wait until someone decides to sell a used one since DD has discontinued them or change the amps in my car (ugh) to use the D5.1000 in the Escalade.

 

[Meccanoble]

That definitely looks longer than mine. Any pictures of the bracket that sits on top of the amp? Same bracket that bolts to the center console/arm rest area?


Definitely cant wait to see how that looks/sounds

 

[91RS]

What do you mean by bracket? Maybe the Tahoe/Yukon console is more different than I remember. The compartment for the console is held onto the base with four screws. There isn't much space between the top of the amp and the bottom of the compartment. So far I've had no luck finding another D5.1000 and so far I haven't found another 5 channel that is as powerful on the sub channel and as small. I really don't anticipate needing that much power but it'll cost me more money and time to buy a different subwoofer...

 

[Meccanoble]

What do you mean by bracket? Maybe the Tahoe/Yukon console is more different than I remember. The compartment for the console is held onto the base with four screws. There isn't much space between the top of the amp and the bottom of the compartment. So far I've had no luck finding another D5.1000 and so far I haven't found another 5 channel that is as powerful on the sub channel and as small. I really don't anticipate needing that much power but it'll cost me more money and time to buy a different subwoofer...

Right, when you unbolt those 4 screws, there is a silver metal bracket underneath the console but on top of the amp. You would have to remove that bracket just to get that view of the amp you have. The bracket is what keeps the arm rest/compartment section from wiggling so much. If you have to unscrew those 4 screws in the storage compartment just to lift the center console, you most likely have the bracket....unless your truck with the longer amp uses something different to bolt the center console down. Hope this makes sense. Its possible you are unbolting this bracket from the sides and it goes up with the center console but if you had to unbolt the 4 screws inside the storage section, you should have seperated the center console from the bracket.

If a chain of events happen the way I plan in the near future, I'll be able to take more pictures. The bracket I have is super shallow at the bottom where the amp is and literally wouldnt let anything more than a micro amp fit under the bracket if my memory is still good. Some people get rid of bracket just to fit an amp down there but I'm hoping the trucks with the LUX amp have a bigger bracket to handle the spacing for their larger amps....or maybe part of bracket can be cut and still be strong enough to stabilize center console....

 

[91RS]

The Escalade console doesn't have any metal bracket over the amplifier.

 

[Meccanoble]

When you open your arm rest and take the storage compartment stuff out, there should be 4 screws (or holes?). I think those were the same 4 we have been talking about in this thread. Are they screwed down to anything? On my LT Tahoe with only Bose (not LUX), they screw down to a metal bracket which is bolted into frame. Those 4 screws, do they connect to anything?

 

[91RS]

I only have three screws in mine and it's all plastic underneath. It would probably be more sturdy if it had some metal...