Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

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NathanJax

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I do not do dip. Absolutely hate that stuff. To me it's a cheap ass way to do a half ass job that's not even permanent, doesn't wash well, and looks like plastic dip. I can spot the stuff a mile away. Does that answer that question?
:signs8:

:word:
 

PG01

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And thanks @HiHoeSilver for helping me spend $30 on a black billet bowtie for the grill...it will be here Sunday.

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Black billet ftw..
 
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Rocket Man

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I was under the impression that the stair step was proper and to me makes more sense.... as I stated previously for road signs.

Low on the left for oncoming traffic gradually getting higher on the right for signage... oh well guess I was wrong.
Hell I don't know. I ain't no expert in headlight aiming and this is my first retrofit. If anybody knows for sure, please enlighten me! I actually set them like that but because I was just lining up lines then I noticed the stairstep and thought it was wrong. All I ever read on headlight aiming never mentioned that. I guess I'll be asking Mr. Google today....
 

kbuskill

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Hell I don't know. I ain't no expert in headlight aiming and this is my first retrofit. If anybody knows for sure, please enlighten me! I actually set them like that but because I was just lining up lines then I noticed the stairstep and thought it was wrong. All I ever read on headlight aiming never mentioned that. I guess I'll be asking Mr. Google today....

Let us know what the experts think.... then we will both know... lol
 
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Rocket Man

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Let us know what the experts think.... then we will both know... lol
TRS lines them up like I did in their videos. There's still one stairstep on mine. Others I watched were either way, some like you said and some like I did. I see no clear consensus. Anybody else know for sure?
 

01Konvict

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One step even on both sides, meaning the step up on driver side matches step up on passenger. So as you have them now is correct. The point of the step up is to project light further down the road while not blinding oncoming drivers to your left. That's why they make LHD and RHD steps depending on what country you reside.
 

01Konvict

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Here's the cutoff at ride height . The demon eye pics will have to wait, it just started pouring. I was relieved that the projectors stayed perfectly level after epoxying them in place.View attachment 194825

Looks good and cut off seems crisp for MH1. Not sure what the flare up in right hand corner of picture is from... The gap between steps at 25' should equal gap between center of each projector. So centerline of projector to projector is 55" then at 25' the step peaks need to be 55" apart. Then when you back up to 100' they are set straight and don't spread apart or come together. Yours appear correct but sharing for others who might take on a retrofit.
 

kbuskill

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Consensus has it I suppose... like I said I guess it was just my ignorance.... still makes more sense in my head to have 2 steps BUT I guess if I ever retro I can set it up my way and let everyone tell me it's wrong.... lol
 
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Rocket Man

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I just noticed you have the 08-10 HD front end. I just got all my parts for my 11-13 HD front end swap. (I was going through your thread trying to figure out which emblem was on your hood and happened to notice the difference)
Actually I'm pretty sure my front end is a '12. I remember when I saw the Craigslist ad it said '12 and I thought the truck was a '12 because the wording made it look that way. I texted the PO a while ago but he hasn't got back to me. I ordered the billet grill emblem for the 08-10 HD and it's way too small so I just exchanged it for a '12. Guess I'll see when Amazon Prime delivers it.
Edit: I just found out the hood is 08-11 but the grill and bumper is 12.
 
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Rocket Man

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I also got an RGB led strip in today but the connectors I ordered ended up being micro JST instead of regular size so I reordered them. I plan on messing around with the Bluetooth controller for my demon eyes and maybe start with some behind the grill coloring for a start. I still have 2 separate channels with several connectors each to hook leds up to. I can run different colors on each channel or match them all. It’s cheap to play around with since the controller was the expensive part. I'll just solder connectors onto whatever length strips I need.

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NathanJax

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Actually I'm pretty sure my front end is a '12. I remember when I saw the Craigslist ad it said '12 and I thought the truck was a '12 because the wording made it look that way. I texted the PO a while ago but he hasn't got back to me. I ordered the billet grill emblem for the 08-10 HD and it's way too small so I just exchanged it for a '12. Guess I'll see when Amazon Prime delivers it.
Edit: I just found out the hood is 08-11 but the grill and bumper is 12.


Lol. I knew the hood was 08-11 for sure. Like I said, the lines in the vents. I'm surprised it's the newer grill/bumper with the older hood.

Either way, still want to steal your truck...
 

05alive

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Tasteful LED's are FTMFW.


All said and done how hard was building the lights? I want to build my dad a set with ebay clear 6.7 lights and a TRS kit (wish it was the round projectors not square but whatever) but I have a feeling I'll royally screw something up and send $550 down the drain.

He complains that his stock halogen lights are too dim so I was thinking switchbacks, clear hosuings, white demon eyes, and 5500k HID's in projectors.
 
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Rocket Man

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Tasteful LED's are FTMFW.



All said and done how hard was building the lights? I want to build my dad a set with ebay clear 6.7 lights and a TRS kit (wish it was the round projectors not square but whatever) but I have a feeling I'll royally screw something up and send $550 down the drain.

He complains that his stock halogen lights are too dim so I was thinking switchbacks, clear hosuings, white demon eyes, and 5500k HID's in projectors.
It wasn't too hard. You just have to bake them open and grind the hole out so the projectors can mount. Then you need time in the dark to install them without the lenses on so you can aim them horizontally.
 
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Rocket Man

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I got lucky with The Beast today and found out all that was wrong was a couple plug wires got burned on the headers right through the heat boots so as a reward I decided to buy a new HVAC control panel since mine has the worn off button look that is common. I had been looking on Amazon and I knew one was about $147 but I decided to see if there was an open box one and found a "used like new" one from Amazon Warehouse for $98. I had been looking at the stickers and read they are OK until the lights come on, which I suspected. Plus I didn't like the idea of stickers on the buttons.

IMG_8036.JPG 413Gv92OxxL.jpg
 

kbuskill

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I got lucky with The Beast today and found out all that was wrong was a couple plug wires got burned on the headers right through the heat boots so as a reward I decided to buy a new HVAC control panel since mine has the worn off button look that is common. I had been looking on Amazon and I knew one was about $147 but I decided to see if there was an open box one and found a "used like new" one from Amazon Warehouse for $98. I had been looking at the stickers and read they are OK until the lights come on, which I suspected. Plus I didn't like the idea of stickers on the buttons.

View attachment 195009 View attachment 195010

I went with the stickers on the buttons and have no complaints they look great and still light up just like before. Just FYI.
 

00'BlueSteel

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Those demon eyes look sick!

I vote for a little accent lighting behind the grille I think that will really help set it off.


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