Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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OP
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$50 for one of their designs which they have about a hundred of , none that I found that I liked. The patterns like above are $75 and if you want a one-off it's $100. Not bad IMO considering they take apart the projectors, etch, then reassemble and make sure they're still aligned. I think with the demon eye and the pattern it would look badass, especially with the housing being CM'd.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Those are bad ass. I think it's one of those things that you'd regret not doing every time you looked at the headlights. Maybe something that matched the grille?
OP
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That's a good idea. And LED switchbacks for the turns. I'll have about $600- $700 into the headlights but they will make a statement for sure. Hell I remember spending $500 for one Harley-Davidson Daymaker LED headlight for one of my bikes. Then I bought one for another of my Harleys before I found out I could retrofit a 7" Truck-Lite LED off a Jeep that worked just as good for the other two.
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OP
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The hood blanket came in today and even though there was still snow on the hood (and all over the ground) I decided to install it anyway. Only problem is when I ordered it I forgot it's a HD hood. It was close but some of the holes were in the wrong place and if I'm spending $150 on it, it better be perfect. eBay only charged me $6.50 to ship it back even though the box is huge. Then I looked up the correct part and eBay didn't have it; seems only the dealers have it. And they all wanted anywhere from $150- $175 to ship it to me. So this was one of those rare instances where I'm using my dealer to buy a part. The HD one will cost me $160 but I'm OK with that. I want the engine bay to look like new. Also received some new wheel studs to replace a couple broken ones I found. I'll do those when I install my NNBS brakes off the Denali onto it.
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I just ordered a set of Depo headlights to do the retrofit on. I'm not comfortable doing all that work and spending that much money using an unknown brand of headlights. I've read of others installing the morimoto's on Depos. Also this way the truck won't be without headlights while I work on them, and I can take my time. I also ordered the retrofit kit, demon eyes, and etching service from TRS. The paint is ordered also. Stay tuned, this should be fun.
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HiHoeSilver
Away!
Got a pic of which etching you chose?
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I haven't yet; they will get ahold of me and discuss it. I'm thinking the center one above since its close to the grill pattern. But they may have a closer match.
Edit: now that I looked at it again it's not that close of a match. I'll see what they have; there's no online catalog of the patterns, only the designs.
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I decided to fix my hyperflash I've had since converting the tails to LED. I had tried adding a normal resistor made for it which I believe was 6 ohms but it had no effect. I found a YouTube on the NNBS Silverados and it said to use a 10 ohm and an 8 ohm wired in parallel so I had ordered some ceramic wirewound resistors from Radio Shack and followed the instructions. I think since the Silvys have 2 turn signal bulbs in each tail light they need more resistance. I mounted the resistors between 2 panels behind the tail lights so they can't melt anything if they get too hot. It worked like a charm, no more hyperflash.
Tonyrodz
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Should have a rocket etched in the lens lol
OP
OP
OP
OP
05Single
afraid of the dark
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But are they available in 14? Would they have to be custom made ?
I'm a billet noob.
I'm a billet noob.
OP
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All billets are custom made. They're a 2-piece or 3-piece design. The center is the billet part and it's welded or bolted into a 1 or 2-piece hoop which is spun or stamped. This way they can make it with any bolt pattern, backspacing, width or diameter. intro just showed some 28 x 16's on their FB page with something about a new tire size on the horizon. Possibly there's no tire that will fit them yet? IDK. The PO had some 26 x 14's on the truck at one point and I wish he'd have left them on.
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Here it is with the 26 x 14's. He said he went to some 28's after this and then to the ones that are on it now. I might get something like these in the future if I can sell the ones on it now. Crazy since they're over $6000 a set. I'm pretty sure he was trading them among his buddies in Cali but still...
OP
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I'm kind of liking this eyeball for the projectors...
iamdub
Full Access Member
Sick.
After seeing this pic, I now know I wanna swap out my chrome handles for color-matched, paint or swap mirrors, maybe debadge...
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BlackBear got back to me about my tune they're working on and said my IAT's are showing as 200-220 degrees and asked to see my intake. I sent them pics and they got back to me today. I didn't realize that on the NNBS the IAT sensor is incorporated into the MAF sensor and so the mystery is solved. My coolant overflow tank has been relocated due to my wheel tubs and that placed it right next to the MAF/IAT sensor, almost touching it in the position it was in. Which of course is giving it false readings. So I attempted to see what I could do as far as rotating the sensor away from the tank and I think I might be able to make it work, or maybe use some insulating product to separate them. In the process I found out the bracket someone had fabbed to hold the tank was missing a bolt and the tank wasn't solid anyway. The bracket was all kinds of wrong so I re-fabbed it but I ended up breaking the bolt that goes into a valve cover boss and gave up for the day. It started snowing on me and my hands were frozen. I'll figure something out. There isn't enough room to relocate the tank much further away but I'll see what I can do. I'll hook up my Tech 2 and monitor the IAT after I fix the problem and see if I can get the reading down. In the picture, I've rotated it so it's up. Before it was horizontal, touching the tank. I have header wrap I think I'll try.
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I decided to go look at live data and mess with the IAT sensor. It didn't take me but a minute to decide it was a bad sensor; it read 220 degrees when the truck was cold. I checked the wiring, then unplugged it and it went to -30 like it's supposed to. Went inside and ordered a new sensor. Then I decided to double-check that it was the sensor and the guide I was looking at said to test between pins 1-2 and it has resistance values for temperatures and the sensor showed 120 ohms which meant it should read 220 degrees which it did but it was inside my house and it was 68 not 220 lol. I pulled it out of the housing and there it is- a fried sensor. The thermistor is definitely bad. It's that little crispy black thing that directly connects to the 2 pins.
