You guys know how I ride... (Z71 Bumpstops inside)
- Thread starter Alex33
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Nickleahy23
Full Access Member
well i figured out half of it..i got the truck back at the end of june after i blew my rear end up..the guy pulled my swaybar and put it back in..in the stock position..so it was hitting the panhard bracket..and by hitting, i mean the rear of the truck was riding on the sway bar..so i fixed that and its back to being better, but by no means is the ride good..i checked the bumps, and im about an inch to inch and a half away with my stock, worn bumpstops...i just feel like the front end has much more in it..the truck rides stiff..i mean i can take a corner faster then any other vehicle i drive, and it doesnt body roll or miss a beat, but in a straight line, its just all over...i have new bjs, new tie rods, new pitman and idler arm etc...the arms ride just as bad as my 3" drop on keys, but the camber is better..i do have a blown tie rod that im fixing tomorrow, but it never rode like it should..
when i jack it up, i get almost a foot gap between the tire and fender..should i have that much give in there?
when i jack it up, i get almost a foot gap between the tire and fender..should i have that much give in there?
Glad to hear the rear ride situation got resolved.
Did you ever do spindles? I'd suggest doing spindles and turning down your stock keys. That should keep your camber from getting too crazy and still give you a decent ride.
As far as the droop when jacked up, mine has a looot.
I would go 05-06 just to be safe but here's the PN so you don't have to deal with a confused parts slinger
GM P# - 15153959
Thanks. ALex... I think also,I will order the Belltech front shox,as it seems Tony doesnt use the DJM front shox in his 3/5 kits anymore because of ride quality.
Nickleahy23
Full Access Member
i thought it was a bad idea to run spindles and djm 3" arms? I mean I know I can crank and get 2" of lift, and use the spindles to get back down 2", but is that going to give me a better ride? there would be more tension on the bars so in theory it would ride stiffer?
M Hankel
Full Access Member
Why would it be bad to run BT spindles with the DJM arms? I would think it would be worse to run the arms with lowering keys because the upper ball joint angle is more severe with the keys at same drop level.
If you have the DJM shocks, thats where I'd be looking for better ride. Shocks make all the difference IMO. FWIW, I'm really diggin the Bilsteins I got for the my DJM drop.
Mike
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Nickleahy23
Full Access Member
sorry for hijacking the thread lol
idk i just had always heard that it was a bad idea lol..im on djm arms and stock keys..what is the part number for the shocks? i know that these are crap..
here is how far my bolts are out
like 1.5" to the arm from bumpstop while on the ground..
and droop
idk i just had always heard that it was a bad idea lol..im on djm arms and stock keys..what is the part number for the shocks? i know that these are crap..
here is how far my bolts are out
like 1.5" to the arm from bumpstop while on the ground..
and droop
Those bolts look pretty far out.
I think the bumpstops should rest on something to improve your ride. You're essentially riding on a collapsed spring right now. I sent Mike (M Hankel) a few Bilstein PN for a shock that should fit the DJM arms. He might have some suggestions for you.
I have that much droop when I jack up the front of my truck.
I think the bumpstops should rest on something to improve your ride. You're essentially riding on a collapsed spring right now. I sent Mike (M Hankel) a few Bilstein PN for a shock that should fit the DJM arms. He might have some suggestions for you.
I have that much droop when I jack up the front of my truck.
candyman74
Full Access Member
ride sux
i too have the 3/5 kit from tony, have replaced everything on the front end except the steering box and my truck is riding like shit also, i have djm shocks and to get the front remotely close i have to crank the driveside torsion bolt all the way up and on passenger side all the way down, my drivers side tire is inward alot at the top and im straight up and down on passenger. i dont have any bumpstops in front but after reading this im gonna get some but i was also wondering can you reinstall torsion bars incorrectly? also i have a bad torsion bar bracket bushing bad could that affect ride quality? sorry for all the ?s i just want my ride quality back spend alot to ride worse.
i too have the 3/5 kit from tony, have replaced everything on the front end except the steering box and my truck is riding like shit also, i have djm shocks and to get the front remotely close i have to crank the driveside torsion bolt all the way up and on passenger side all the way down, my drivers side tire is inward alot at the top and im straight up and down on passenger. i dont have any bumpstops in front but after reading this im gonna get some but i was also wondering can you reinstall torsion bars incorrectly? also i have a bad torsion bar bracket bushing bad could that affect ride quality? sorry for all the ?s i just want my ride quality back spend alot to ride worse.
chip
Full Access Member
Start with jounce stops/bump stops first. Best value for your dollar, hands down.
I was wondering the same thing about my torsion bars too, but I think it's more likely that one side must go bad first, because my truck had the same (torsion bar) issue. I thought I was missing something, but it looks like a pretty universal issue now.
Can you re-install torsion bars incorrectly?
I suppose you could. I have never been able to improperly index my torsion bars. They only go into the arm one way and they only go into the keys one way. However, I never completely removed them. I would just slide them forward to make changes.
I have a bad torsion bar bracket bushing bad could that affect ride quality?
I could see the bad bushing creating excess noise but I don't see ride quality being made worse.
FEL10_OORAH
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I took out my front brackets for the jounce stops and installed shorties too. Id seen that bilstein makes those air bump stops too. whats the ticket on them. id rather do that immediately.
let me be clear. i have the djm upper and lower control arms with new upper and lower ball joints, new idler arm and pittman arm as well and im still riding like shit but it is improving evertime i can afford to touch the KON. just go an alignment but im still getting a pop that ive read could be coming from a loose cross member or bad body mounts but only i know what ive done to the car and it seems like everytime i take it to someone they clearly miss things that would be contributing to my rough ride like this or the obvious fact that my lowered KON is missing the front jounce stops. i had a mechanic tell me to get a steering stabilizer when after reading this ill try the cheapest route first. back to jounce stops it is but the initial reason why i removed them and the bracket was because the bracket was making contact with my djm lca. when i got under my KON yesterday i also noticed that the front shock bushings and mount insulators were shot so i ordered those and will do that along with the jounce stops soon and report back. i also have the djm front shocks and in my experience yes, they are a bit stiff but i think if all of the other components around them are good like the bushings , insulators, jounce stops, bj's, tie rods, idler and pittman then i can see how ****** the djm shocks are.
let me be clear. i have the djm upper and lower control arms with new upper and lower ball joints, new idler arm and pittman arm as well and im still riding like shit but it is improving evertime i can afford to touch the KON. just go an alignment but im still getting a pop that ive read could be coming from a loose cross member or bad body mounts but only i know what ive done to the car and it seems like everytime i take it to someone they clearly miss things that would be contributing to my rough ride like this or the obvious fact that my lowered KON is missing the front jounce stops. i had a mechanic tell me to get a steering stabilizer when after reading this ill try the cheapest route first. back to jounce stops it is but the initial reason why i removed them and the bracket was because the bracket was making contact with my djm lca. when i got under my KON yesterday i also noticed that the front shock bushings and mount insulators were shot so i ordered those and will do that along with the jounce stops soon and report back. i also have the djm front shocks and in my experience yes, they are a bit stiff but i think if all of the other components around them are good like the bushings , insulators, jounce stops, bj's, tie rods, idler and pittman then i can see how ****** the djm shocks are.
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Nickleahy23
Full Access Member
after a new tie rod and fixing my sway bar, its tolerable again..just uses to much gas and has no balls lol still been driving the grand am..6.0 isnt enough anymore..cam to come this fall hopefully, but ive been saying that for 3 years
M Hankel
Full Access Member
^^^^ This!!! I noticed a dramtic decrease in power when I installed the 22's. Re-gearing for the taller tires will get your power back.
Mike
Nickleahy23
Full Access Member
just dropped 800 to fix the rear, and i enjoy my highway mpg..i gotta make the 200 mile trip to school and back every other weekend this semester..and my tires are the same size as the stocks i roll for winter, but they are much heavier..its still fast enough to have fun when i want, but could always use more
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