Woven copper wire for grounding

[Tahoe97]

On my 23 yr old 97 Tahoe, there are (were) several body to frame copper grounding wires that are an uninsulated copper weave. At least 2 of them are so old and corroded that they broke and are no longer making any ground connection. What kind of troubles might I run into if I don't find a way to re-establish those connections? Any recommendations on where to re-attach/re-establish such grounds?

 

[wjburken]

On my 23 yr old 97 Tahoe, there are (were) several body to frame copper grounding wires that are an uninsulated copper weave. At least 2 of them are so old and corroded that they broke and are no longer making any ground connection. What kind of troubles might I run into if I don't find a way to re-establish those connections? Any recommendations on where to re-attach/re-establish such grounds?

You can buy replacement woven wire grounding straps or you can use any suitable sized wire with appropriate terminals on the ends to provide a ground. I would keep the color green so the next guy to work on it can recognize it as a ground wire.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...rEndextxoCKY4QAvD_BwE&store=3365&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=195509&cc=1061367&jsn=1106

 

[OR VietVet]

Depending on where you are at and the amount of salt on the roads, you can go back with the weave grounds or like wjburken said, go with a green insulated wire of the appropriate gauge wire, like a battery cable, with the eyelets on each end and of course do the green color. You may have to get bulk cable and make your own length that fits and install eyelets at each end. If you do, do yourself a big favor and do not just crimp the ends on, get the ends that you not only crimp on but have to heat to melt the solder around the ends inside the eyelet. The braided strap would be quick and easy and they are inexpensive and easily available.

 

[liquify33]

Not to nitpick but shouldn’t DC grounds be black?

 

[OR VietVet]

National Electrical Code

In the United States, the National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates electrical wiring color codes for the protective ground. The protective ground must be either green, green-yellow, or bare copper. “Green-yellow” refers to green with yellow stripes. For all other functions, there are no legal requirements. However, certain colors have been adopted as local practice and are recommended. Due to safety reasons, the use of a 2-wire ungrounded system is discouraged. However, the colors red (for positive) and black (for negative) follow the grounded system coloring code.


Typically the color black is listed as Neutral and not Ground. That would be a two wire system talked about above. The ground has also been said can be woven or braided copper wire as we talked about. I think Black or Green gets the point across.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Not to nitpick but shouldn’t DC grounds be black?

The black in a DC system is -.

If you really want to nitpick, a vehicle is an ungrounded system because it's not bonded to earth. We call them "grounds," but they're really -.

That said, I agree with black as opposed to green.

 

[wjburken]

There is no national color code for wiring when it comes to automotive wiring like there is for residential or industrial wiring, save for the high voltage wires on a hybrid vehicle which are made very visible and are usually orange. Each manufacturer has their own color palette that they use. I recommended green as it is very much synonymous with being for a ground wire.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

There is no national color code for wiring when it comes to automotive wiring like there is for residential or industrial wiring, save for the high voltage wires on a hybrid vehicle which are made very visible and are usually orange. Each manufacturer has their own color palette that they use. I recommended green as it is very much synonymous with being for a ground wire.

Or a reverse trigger....jussayin.

Black or bare is best.

 

[Tahoe97]

Thanks everyone. It is tough getting old. The original copper braided cable just crumbles in my hands now. Need to establish some new grounds.

 

[liquify33]

Thanks everyone. It is tough getting old. The original copper braided cable just crumbles in my hands now. Need to establish some new grounds.

I feel your pain, the one by the crankshaft for the ignition system broke on me recently also.

 

[fastpat]

The copper braids are cheap and easy to replace. You will need to measure the length needed, also easy.

 

[willxfs]

If you decide to go the regular copper wire route, I like the website listed below. Its a marine hardware store of sorts. You can buy what ever wire you want, color, size, and length. You can also order different terminals and heat shrink. For an additional small fee, they will crimp the terminals on and install the heat shrink. You receive your wire in the mail and install in your truck. I've used them many times for my boats. Good stuff and good price. I should mention, that most of their wire is tinned copper. Great for the marine environment. I'm not sure if that affects anything for the automotive application.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/

 

[OR VietVet]

Tinned copper may handle salt better than without.

Found this:

Bare copper is fairly resistant to corrosion, but when it is used in wet environments or places with high humidity, it can quickly become damaged. When bare copper is operating at temperatures that exceed 100 degrees Celsius, it may start to degrade. This kind of damage can result in a loss of performance. If cost is of any concern, then bare copper is less expensive than its tinned counterpart.

By coating bare copper with a metal alloy, like tin, you can strengthen the copper’s natural properties, which will give it a longer shelf life. Also, tinned copper is easier to connect because tin is a primary component in solder. Tinned copper is better equipped to resist humidity, high temperatures and wet environments.

When considering bare copper or tinned copper wiring, the environment and cost should heavily dictate which type of wire you choose.

 

[wjburken]

If you decide to go the regular copper wire route, I like the website listed below. Its a marine hardware store of sorts. You can buy what ever wire you want, color, size, and length. You can also order different terminals and heat shrink. For an additional small fee, they will crimp the terminals on and install the heat shrink. You receive your wire in the mail and install in your truck. I've used them many times for my boats. Good stuff and good price. I should mention, that most of their wire is tinned copper. Great for the marine environment. I'm not sure if that affects anything for the automotive application.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/

Thanks for the link.

I like the colored options for expandable wire sleeving.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-electrical-supply/expandable-braided-sleeving

 

[BG1988]

On my 23 yr old 97 Tahoe, there are (were) several body to frame copper grounding wires that are an uninsulated copper weave. At least 2 of them are so old and corroded that they broke and are no longer making any ground connection. What kind of troubles might I run into if I don't find a way to re-establish those connections? Any recommendations on where to re-attach/re-establish such grounds?

it's called braided cable
but if those are bad replace the transmission strap as well

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=acdelco+ground+strap&page=2&qid=1576115464