What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mikez71]

I remember when doing the left rear door I had to undo that plastic retainer as well, otherwise I wouldn't been able to remove the door handle. (front ones are removable without ever touching that plastic goodness)

I wasn't able to remove the clip until I removed the handle!

I unbolted the latch and handle, then pulled the whole assembly upwards until I can slip the handle off.
To adjust the rod, I screwed the rod in/out while the handle was off.
To remove the (rear) rod/clip, I pulled it near the handle opening to where I could get needle nose pliers on the tabs.

How did you remove that clip with the handle on!?
I got my finger tips all over it and no matter how I pushed or tried to depress the tabs, I couldn't.
Tried to sneak a pick behind the plastic tab that holds the rod, and couldn't get a good angle.
I wonder if I had a properly sized metal tube, I could slip it over the cylindrical end and depress the tabs?

 

[89Suburban]

I wasn't able to remove the clip until I removed the handle!

I unbolted the latch and handle, then pulled the whole assembly upwards until I can slip the handle off.
To adjust the rod, I screwed the rod in/out while the handle was off.
To remove the (rear) rod/clip, I pulled it near the handle opening to where I could get needle nose pliers on the tabs.

How did you remove that clip with the handle on!?
I got my finger tips all over it and no matter how I pushed or tried to depress the tabs, I couldn't.
Tried to sneak a pick behind the plastic tab that holds the rod, and couldn't get a good angle.
I wonder if I had a properly sized metal tube, I could slip it over the cylindrical end and depress the tabs?

They are a major PITA for sure!!!

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m dreaming of a kei truck. It will need this sticker.

the Chicken Tax effectively crushed the u.s. market for small trucks in more ways than 1

 

[Pandabird]

I wasn't able to remove the clip until I removed the handle!

I unbolted the latch and handle, then pulled the whole assembly upwards until I can slip the handle off.
To adjust the rod, I screwed the rod in/out while the handle was off.
To remove the (rear) rod/clip, I pulled it near the handle opening to where I could get needle nose pliers on the tabs.

How did you remove that clip with the handle on!?
I got my finger tips all over it and no matter how I pushed or tried to depress the tabs, I couldn't.
Tried to sneak a pick behind the plastic tab that holds the rod, and couldn't get a good angle.
I wonder if I had a properly sized metal tube, I could slip it over the cylindrical end and depress the tabs?

I pressed a really tiny flathead at the release tab that's on the left side, turned the flathead to pry it open (tried with my fingernail first but to no avail) and sorta held on to the back portion of the tab while lightly pulling the rod part towards me and it swung open.

 

[Fubar0715]

I just found out they're road-legal in my state.

I have a neighbor a few streets away with one - personalized plate "BYTESZED"

 

[Tonyrodz]

Pulled the spark plug hoses off to add some silicone grease and the backordered heat sleeves. Don't mind that plastic loom...I read somewhere here that they heal themselves.

View attachment 465217

Ahhh, so you did order those Taylor wires. Do you like them?

 

[Charlie207]

I have a neighbor a few streets away with one - personalized plate "BYTESZED"

That's funny.

 

[Charlie207]

Ahhh, so you did order those Taylor wires. Do you like them?

I've had no issues with them.

It's almost certainly a scenario where they work, or they don't. I had some extra cash to throw at "fancy" wires a few years ago, and did.

The nice thing is that they do fit easily through the heat sleeves, vs the factory LY6 plug wires that would be too wide to fit.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I've had no issues with them.

It's almost certainly a scenario where they work, or they don't. I had some extra cash to throw at "fancy" wires a few years ago, and did.

The nice thing is that they do fit easily through the heat sleeves, vs the factory LY6 plug wires that would be too wide to fit.

I was reading a sticky about spark plug wires, and you and I spoke about those wires. I still have mine on my Tahoe. No issues at all.

 

[Charlie207]

I was reading a sticky about spark plug wires, and you and I spoke about those wires. I still have mine on my Tahoe. No issues at all.

I've seen the brand mentioned on other forums, and for other vehicles, with many positive experiences. I'm sure I was looking for something better than OEM, and these fit the bill.

 

[mikez71]

I pressed a really tiny flathead at the release tab that's on the left side, turned the flathead to pry it open (tried with my fingernail first but to no avail) and sorta held on to the back portion of the tab while lightly pulling the rod part towards me and it swung open.

Still can't do it! Another fail for me.. Instead I must unscrew the latch everytime.
Here it is pushed to the handle opening where long nose pliers can get them easily.

Now regarding getting the door handles to unlock...

Try#1. loosened latch and removed handle. unscrewed the rod 2 turns. Still tension.
put together, it works! put door panel back.. oops INSIDE latch release does -NOT- work.

Try#2. yanked door panel from inside, remove handle and latch and discovered cable ball end had popped off latch side.
attached, reinstalled. Still can't open from the inside!

Try#3. yank door panel from inside AGAIN. loosen latch and remove handle.
unscrew the rod 2 more turns, still tension. still doesn't open from inside..

Try#4. removed the latch and handle, unclip the rod, install everything and clip the rod with ZERO tension. (approx 5 more turns)
Door opens, -BUT- handle is very sticky.

Try#5. I finally decided to install the new latch. minimal tension to take any slop out.
It FINALLY works -AND- isn't sticky! Praise the LORD!

Possible I could have adjusted the rod more on the old latch and found a sweet spot, but it was a large range where the outside handle worked, but not the inside.
Maybe a worn latch was the reason for the sticky feeling doors originally.
I tensioned the other rear door rod and it's working great? normal with lighter pull than before. (though still sticky compared to fronts, just how rears are I guess)

I broke a few doorpanel clips on try#2 , but after installing the same replacements, they didn't break the next couple removals.
Best to yank straight on the doorpanel handle to try and pop all the clips loose, all at once..
Brace door with other hand. (unless stuck inside!)

 

[Doubeleive]

Still can't do it! Another fail for me.. Instead I must unscrew the latch everytime.
Here it is pushed to the handle opening where long nose pliers can get them easily.
View attachment 465279

Try#1. loosened latch and removed handle. unscrewed the rod 2 turns. Still tension.
put together, it works! put door panel back.. oops INSIDE latch release does -NOT- work.

Try#2. yanked door panel from inside, remove handle and latch and discovered cable ball end had popped off latch side.
attached, reinstalled. Still can't open from the inside!

Try#3. yank door panel from inside AGAIN. loosen latch and remove handle.
unscrew the rod 2 more turns, still tension. still doesn't open from inside..

Try#4. removed the latch and handle, unclip the rod, install everything and clip the rod with ZERO tension. (approx 5 more turns)
Door opens, -BUT- handle is very sticky.

Try#5. I finally decided to install the new latch. minimal tension to take any slop out.
It FINALLY works -AND- isn't sticky! Praise the LORD!

Possible I could have adjusted the rod more on the old latch and found a sweet spot, but it was a large range where the outside handle worked, but not the inside.
Maybe a worn latch was the reason for the sticky feeling doors originally.
I tensioned the other rear door rod and it's working great? normal with lighter pull than before. (though still sticky compared to fronts, just how rears are I guess)

I broke a few doorpanel clips on #2 , but after installing the same replacements, they didn't break the next removal(s).
Best to yank straight on the doorpanel handle to try and pop all the clips loose, all at once..
Brace door with other hand. (unless stuck inside!)

this pops open, look closer

 

[mikez71]

I know, but I can't seem to reach it without a pick.. that has a 90 bend about 1" from the end?
I tried picking at it, even sharpened a coat hanger.. Hard to hit that tiny spot.. Need a bend and a sharp tip to reach it in door.. unless I missed an angle..

That angle is from under the latch. The wheel well curve is below (why you need a 90) and that clip is difficult to see under or behind.

Only way I ever get at it, is when I unscrew the latch. So far I've only popped it off with the rod and clip, or latch, fully removed. Then I unclip the rod.
3 screws seemed to me less frustration.. 5 when you count the handle.. I couldn't do it even with good photos from an older thread showing this exact clip..

 

[Doubeleive]

I know, but I can't seem to reach it without a pick.. that has a 90 bend about 1" from the end?
I tried picking at it, even sharpened a coat hanger.. Hard to hit that tiny spot.. Need a bend and a sharp tip to reach it in door.. unless I missed an angle..
View attachment 465284
View attachment 465285
That angle is from under the latch. The wheel well curve is below (why you need a 90) and that clip is difficult to see under or behind.

Only way I ever get at it, is when I unscrew the latch. So far I've only popped it off with the rod and clip, or latch, fully removed. Then I unclip the rod.
3 screws seemed to me less frustration.. 5 when you count the handle.. I couldn't do it even with good photos from an older thread showing this exact clip..

Just pull it with your finger it pops open

 

[mikez71]

Oooohhh i see it now. big tab is a pull huh? I thought they did it like that just to mess with us..

Well I'm scared of pulling on plastic.. Don't want to mix more JBweld.

 

[Doubeleive]

Oooohhh i see it now. big tab is a pull huh? I thought they did it like that just to mess with us..

Well I'm scared of pulling on plastic.. Don't want to mix more JBweld.

I don't know if it is designed to be pulled but I just did 2 of them at the junkyard 2007's they didn't break. I have to resize the photo I took

 

[Doubeleive]

I knew they popped open because I have grabbed a couple handles at the junkyard and that rod has to be released

 

[mikez71]

I don't know if it is designed to be pulled but I just did 2 of them at the junkyard 2007's they didn't break. I have to resize the photo I took

Just tested my old latch. Pulling tab by hand works, it's tight but no breakage.

Also tried the screwdriver in the slot. (bend towards hinge) works as expected.

I did try both methods in vehicle, but was too timid!

Using screwdriver slot next time. Finger is bleeding just from unlatching it in hand!

New door latch came with the plastic clip, cable and cable mount, but no rods.

 

[Doubeleive]

Just tested my old latch. Pulling tab by hand works, it's tight but no breakage.

Also tried the screwdriver in the slot. (bend towards hinge) works as expected.
View attachment 465300
I did try both methods in vehicle, but was too timid!

Using screwdriver slot next time. Finger is bleeding just from unlatching it in hand!

New door latch came with the plastic clip, cable and cable mount, but no rods.
View attachment 465303

the rod is a separate piece

 

[Charlie207]

Just suckin' away at life.