What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mikeyss

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I chose to do it parallel, simply because the chances of getting 2 dead batteries at the exact same time is pretty much nill, yes you could probably drain both "somehow" but what are the chances?
This is my current situation. I have dual batteries run in parallel, and both are dead. I can jump start it, drive it for 20 mins, and it'll start fine for a few days. Usually after 4 days of sitting, it's back to being dead as a door nail. I even have a mechman 250amp alt, and good copper wire. I've been too lazy to diag it, been driving our 25' Equinox EV for the last few months since the work commute is 6 city miles.
 

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j91z28d1

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my experience with batteries when flat dead is we have a 1200$ recovery pusle charger at work. I've been supised how well it will recover batteries a normal changer can't. but that said it can take over a almost 2 days to fully charge a flat dead battery. if you have 2 battery flat dead in parallel. there's no chance your alternator is fully charging them, you're probably just heating them up more than actually charging with 250amp capable atl and you're lucky it's not just over heating and burning itself up trying. I'd personally disconnect them, change them with something like a cheap 2 amp charger for a day or 2 and then let them rest a day and load test. standard car battery doesn't like being drained flat. you might get one time out it. but 2 or more and I see load testing fall off quickly.

that said, if you don't have a way to measure current drain from that alt. I'd pull the red wire off the alt lug after you drive for a while and before parking it. Alternators can become a current draw as they slowly fail. I almost bought a mechman for my corvette, but there's tons posts about then failing in many different ways. while others have great experience. kinda par for the course with aftermarket upgrades in general. I decided against a 500$ alt and went cheaper but 3 times the work route of making a 220amp off one of the newer trucks work. they are pretty amazing what the new tech can do. being it's a direct bolt on for these gmt900's. I'd never do anything else but a low mileage oem take off for 100$
 

Doubeleive

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This is my current situation. I have dual batteries run in parallel, and both are dead. I can jump start it, drive it for 20 mins, and it'll start fine for a few days. Usually after 4 days of sitting, it's back to being dead as a door nail. I even have a mechman 250amp alt, and good copper wire. I've been too lazy to diag it, been driving our 25' Equinox EV for the last few months since the work commute is 6 city miles.
I would guess 1 of these things is happening

1. bad battery
2. unknown/unmetered draw/short
3. poor charging
I would start load testing each battery separately, but to me whenever a battery has been drained dead even by accident then it's never the same again
then check charging to each battery, put a load on the system by turning on everything that you can and see what the alternator is putting out to each battery.
if that all checks good then check for a draw while everything is asleep, if there is a heavy draw then starting pulling fuses.
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Rocket Man

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Can someone with the bench second row seats take a picture of the passenger side folded? I’m trying to decide if it would be better for my malamute. I have the 60/40 in my NBS and he sits in the 60 side within the 40 side folded for access. The NNBS seats fold different though.
 

Doubeleive

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@179k and she needs a front end refresh, godamm shit's not cheap :mad:
$1200.00 and some change for all 4 control arms and tie rods (best prices found) (all oe equipment)
2 front shocks is going to be another $500, but I should have a $325 credit that one of my cards is offering me to apply towards that.
shopyourway (sears) has been giving me a bunch of credits+ 0% percent interest, kinda hard to turn that down
spending other peoples money I have no problem with lol
 

j91z28d1

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they look nice.

mine had that weird internal cracking. I think they call crazing. I don't see any of that on yours. seems legit
 

Doubeleive

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they look nice.

mine had that weird internal cracking. I think they call crazing. I don't see any of that on yours. seems legit
yep right up until my dumb ass touched the left one where the speck is thinking it was a dust bunny and smeared the clearcoat, so I am going to have to have that one done again
I failed natural selection on that one, lol.
 
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Tonyrodz

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yep right up until my dumb ass touched the left one where the speck is thinking it was a dust bunny and smeared the clearcoat, so I am going to have to have that one done again
I failed natural selection on that one, lol.
Do you know what they did to restore them? Some people dry sanding, others like to wet sand--among other things.
 

Doubeleive

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Do you know what they did to restore them? Some people dry sanding, others like to wet sand--among other things.
pretty sure they use the ceracote stuff, I just had a brain fart and touched what looked like a fuzz ball but i believe it is probably a tiny knick from a rock or something, proceeded to fingerpaint the clear coat a bit, got home and after it dried up I tried to polish out my smudge but I am just rubbing the clear coat off. I'll take it back in the morning no biggie, lesson learned
 

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lowh07

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looks good but those worm clamps will start to leak in about 2-3 years at the most, maybe sooner facing down like that
these adapters are the sizes needed if you even wanted to make it leak proof
need 2 of each size for plug-n-play with the trucool
View attachment 449993View attachment 449994

Cool, thanks. Yeah I don't like the worm clamps so I'll be switching them over
 

89Suburban

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Rocket Man

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Had no idea Walmart did headlight restoration for $26 out the door, until last night. Came out pretty good I guess
View attachment 449855View attachment 449856
The Cerakote was only $18 and took me way less time than driving to Walmart and having them do it. Not that I trust those idiots. Good to know though, in case I ever get to where I can’t do things myself. Oh wait- that would mean I’m dead so never mind! :p :p :p :p

Edit: I remembered reading in the instructions that you can’t do two coats- once it’s applied it’s a done deal and adding another coat will make it hazy. If they used Cerakote, you’re stuck. They should have warned you- instructions said don’t drive the vehicle or touch them for at least 2 hours. Those are some real expensive headlights, aren’t they? Man I hope they look good still. Here’s their Q&A on it:

“We do not recommend trying to touch-up areas, as this product quickly becomes chemically resistant once dry. This product is a one-coat application; more than one coat will have a cloudy appearance.”
 
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Rocket Man

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Do you know what they did to restore them? Some people dry sanding, others like to wet sand--among other things.
I used the Cerakote kit. You just wipe the oxidation off with one set of wipes, then wet sand with 2000 and 3000 and then wipe the clear coat on with another set of wipes. Took me about 30 minutes total for both and they look like new, from a terrible haze I couldn’t even see through. I highly recommend it.
 

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