What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

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Expensive little bastard. I been looking one for a long time. Because mine just absolutely sucks in the daytime to try and see the readout. Been really afraid to pull the trigger on a used one. One guy had a nice one for sale here and I replied and got ignored.

So I got this unit off of Autozone website. 25% off. Even though I brought the $200 core in, they still whacked my ***** credit card for the deposit, even though my signed receipt said $191.13, and sent me an email saying "A credit for $212.00 has been applied to your VISA ending in ****.

Note: The funds will be released to you according to your financial institution’s procedures and may take up to 10 days to appear on your statement"


**** YOU!!!!

Anyway pics:

View attachment 241655 View attachment 241656
I bought a used one off LKQ online for $45 and rebuilt it myself including blacking out the chrome, removing the faces off the buttons and using stickers. My part has been discontinued. I kinda wanted a new one but also no chrome. Couldn’t even find the new part anyway.

466860D7-C1B2-4BEB-BE40-D67C5B8384C0.jpeg D0AE9A35-82E2-499E-9A39-FB1728B1027B.jpeg BB741D26-4EE6-478E-BF29-5762F8237B75.jpeg D6A4777B-B097-454A-80EB-2BF24A876365.jpeg 4FB6FD4E-3397-48AF-9AEF-4DDB4925E93B.jpeg
 

R3cord303

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For just 1 gauge, I'd look for something like this instead of going through all that trouble.....

Autometer #15023



2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
4006c819f19d9a283937d0257533e629.jpg
Compelling. I have a gopro mount there that I don’t really wanna move though
 

BG1988

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Expensive little bastard. I been looking one for a long time. Because mine just absolutely sucks in the daytime to try and see the readout. Been really afraid to pull the trigger on a used one. One guy had a nice one for sale here and I replied and got ignored.

So I got this unit off of Autozone website. 25% off. Even though I brought the $200 core in, they still whacked my ***** credit card for the deposit, even though my signed receipt said $191.13, and sent me an email saying "A credit for $212.00 has been applied to your VISA ending in ****.

Note: The funds will be released to you according to your financial institution’s procedures and may take up to 10 days to appear on your statement"


**** YOU!!!!

Anyway pics:]


88F WTF? mine a permanently set to 60F


i don't use the heater, heated seats are way more energy efficient..(fuel wise)... Also the heat is directly applied to the person. instead of engine > air > cabin > person ...
 

George B

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Replaced my exterior passenger rear door handle. Broke four of the retainer clips for the interior panel. Do you think anyone in town has them on Sunday afternoon??? NOPE!
Place the parts in a bag and wait till tomorrow morning...

Stopped at every auto parts store in town this morning including the dealership. Nobody has these stupid retainers. WTF! GM part number 111519031. Had to order a kit (Dorman 702-001). See it tomorrow.....
 

avalonandl

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it was just my luck I was going from a single lane to where it splits into to two lanes, traffic was moving slow so I jumped in the right lane to pass and a guy in a pickup decided to cut me off so I moved over to the right more since there was another 15 feet of pavement to the right and these metal rods apparently were right there, I drive wherever there is a place to go and usually there is crap that gets kicked off the road. :rolleyes:

Were the rebar just on the shoulder ? Lsying there?
 

89Suburban

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88F WTF? mine a permanently set to 60F


i don't use the heater, heated seats are way more energy efficient..(fuel wise)... Also the heat is directly applied to the person. instead of engine > air > cabin > person ...

Yeah well it was in the 20's here last night and I just got done running down the highway from buying this part and my door seal I spent 80 bucks on is a piece of ******* shit so I get a real nasty cold draft going on. I got a frozen left leg/nut and a burnt right leg/nut.
 

89Suburban

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I bought a used one off LKQ online for $45 and rebuilt it myself including blacking out the chrome, removing the faces off the buttons and using stickers. My part has been discontinued. I kinda wanted a new one but also no chrome. Couldn’t even find the new part anyway.

View attachment 241660 View attachment 241661 View attachment 241662 View attachment 241663 View attachment 241664


Good work there, yeah my issue was the digital display was taking a shit and getting hard to see, especially in daylight and MOST especially when that random, computer controlled alternator charge would drop down, you could barely see it day or at night when that happened. So when that happens you can't see the temp or fan settings which is aggravating. This has been driving me nuts since I bought it. So I finally took the plunge.

And I can tell you, it passed the test this morning. Nice and bright now, I can even wear my sunglasses and see it just fine. Loving it so far. Just hard price tag to swallow.
 

Rocket Man

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88F WTF? mine a permanently set to 60F


i don't use the heater, heated seats are way more energy
, either way is
T
efficient..(fuel wise)... Also the heat is directly applied to the person. instead of engine > air > cabin > person ...
If you’re afraid that using your heater is going to affect your fuel economy you’re :crazy:. AC yes, heater no. Your engine is already producing the heat, if you use it or the radiator has to get rid of it- either way it has to go somewhere.
 

R3cord303

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I have never heard of that method. How does it work?
It just makes it easier to see what MPH to put into HPTuners for upshifts. You have to put in a MPH and an RPM for each gear and a shift speed and a shift pressure and whatnot. Biggest thing is mph and rpm.

They’re not matched though, because the ECM/TCM aren’t fast enough computers for that. First it watches your speed, and after the specified mph is reached then it looks at engine speed, and once it sees that at whatever throttle percent you’re at, (separate table for partial throttle and WOT) then it will actually start your shift. Then you have to take into account with the shift speeds and pressures that the 4L60e is a slow shifting transmission, and the ratios are far from close, so you have to taylor your settings to that (and to some extent the mph/rpm splits for that as well.

This might not sound like a lot going on to you but it does to me. Especially because I’m not a tuner, which is why recording the cluster helps me dial it in.
 

pwtr02ss

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Drove it to get propane, ice and crawfish. I couldn't help but to admire how nice it rides and am actually kinda looking forward to the next road trip. I'm now 9 miles from yanking out the 5.3:

View attachment 241558

You've done your research on this so I'm asking you. Can you leave the stock cam and change over to LS-7 lifters to do DOD delete or do you have to change to a non DOD cam?
 

R3cord303

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You've done your research on this so I'm asking you. Can you leave the stock cam and change over to LS-7 lifters to do DOD delete or do you have to change to a non DOD cam?
You have to get a non-dod cam. GM does sell the stock cam in a non dod flavor though, but its the same price as an aftermarket bigger cam, but you would have to pay for a tune from someone like Blackbear.
 

pwtr02ss

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You have to get a non-dod cam. GM does sell the stock cam in a non dod flavor though, but its the same price as an aftermarket bigger cam, but you would have to pay for a tune from someone like Blackbear.

Thats what I was thinking. I'm trying to avoid pulling the cam and hoping for a few more miles with just changing the lifters. I have HP Tuners so the tuning wouldn't be an issue. The DOD is already turned off. If I'm changing the cam, I'll do something to get a little more power at cruising speed. Not really wanting to do all that work though. It just has lifter rattle at start up and a tick after it warms up
 

Rocket Man

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It just makes it easier to see what MPH to put into HPTuners for upshifts. You have to put in a MPH and an RPM for each gear and a shift speed and a shift pressure and whatnot. Biggest thing is mph and rpm.

They’re not matched though, because the ECM/TCM aren’t fast enough computers for that. First it watches your speed, and after the specified mph is reached then it looks at engine speed, and once it sees that at whatever throttle percent you’re at, (separate table for partial throttle and WOT) then it will actually start your shift. Then you have to take into account with the shift speeds and pressures that the 4L60e is a slow shifting transmission, and the ratios are far from close, so you have to taylor your settings to that (and to some extent the mph/rpm splits for that as well.

This might not sound like a lot going on to you but it does to me. Especially because I’m not a tuner, which is why recording the cluster helps me dial it in.
I’m glad I let Blackbear tune mine, they dont require me to record anything other than a datalog of me out driving around which is stored in the Autocal and emailed to them. As far as a 4l60 being a slow shifting transmission, that’s only the case in its stock configuration and with torque management. My level 3 Performabuilt shifts fast and hard, faster than I could if it was a manual. Torque management has been removed. I’m sure the converter matters as well, it’s a triple disc billet by FTI with 2800 stall.
 

R3cord303

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I’m glad I let Blackbear tune mine, they dont require me to record anything other than a datalog of me out driving around which is stored in the Autocal and emailed to them. As far as a 4l60 being a slow shifting transmission, that’s only the case in its stock configuration and with torque management. My level 3 Performabuilt shifts fast and hard, faster than I could if it was a manual. Torque management has been removed. I’m sure the converter matters as well, it’s a triple disc billet by FTI with 2800 stall.
I 100% agree. Mines been rebuilt once before. When Grandad had it he blew the band out of it because he doesnt stop before going from R to D. When the shop rebuilt mine they did some generic shift kit, a vette servo and I think the 5 planet gearset. It shifts faster than my s10 did with a stock one and a bit firmer too. The tuning for sure helps too its just a pita
 

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