What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tim Quigley]

A full kicker system, door speakers with an Amp and a small truck box 10 behind the 2nd row

 

[08HoeCD]

I THINK (just decide, already) that's my plan, here, too. Which ones did you get? They have a new line now I see.

KES1193 Elaine Series.

Honestly, I more or less picked them up because the brand is fairly high-rated and the package cost is very affordable. But this also means that I also broke one of my own rules for selecting critical components: don't go cheap! Lol

Initial results are favorable. They bite a little earlier and do not require as much overall pedal pressure to slow or stop the vehicle.

 

[CHOO CHOO]

I like the r1 rotors. I have used 3 pairs so far for vehicles and really liked them. I am curious to see how well the big brake kits work for them. I have wilwoods currently but for the cost, I would love to see the difference.

 

[Drok]

Yes. My baby. I loves her.

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Nice, i have one also but my girl claimed it haha

 

[Drok]

These are the ones i have saved in my cart. Ill check out the r1 before i buy though..

 

[Burb!!]

My son and I just washed her.

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[08HoeCD]

View attachment 183488

These are the ones i have saved in my cart. Ill check out the r1 before i buy though..

I'm sure that those are probably great. My set of R1 Concepts pads & slotted rotors for front axle was $137. Not trying to say that cheaper is better, or vice versa. Just giving a pricing comparison to help with decision-making, if price is a major factor.

 

[M3kanic]

Changed the oil today. Looks like close to 4 oz of oil from the catch can and was still a quart low.

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[Drok]

I'm sure that those are probably great. My set of R1 Concepts pads & slotted rotors for front axle was $137. Not trying to say that cheaper is better, or vice versa. Just giving a pricing comparison to help with decision-making, if price is a major factor.

Thanks.

Yea price is a factor, the 200 is the most id want to spend, even though i really want a bbkit haha but $1500+ yeaaa no.

I just need something thats gonna stop some heavy rotating mass of wheels ill have on soon. The 305 55 20 bfg weigh a good 60lbs and idk what my 20s weigh but im sure its not far off from the tire weight.

The brakes i have now have a fade feel to them and the more they wear it seems to get worse..

 

[05Single]

My son and I just washed her.

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Nice, start em young.
Agree some smoked, any smooth, lens tails would look good.

 

[Burb!!]

Nice, start em young.
Agree some smoked, any smooth, lens tails would look good.

No doubt!

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[ACM]

Yes. My baby. I loves her.

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Nice. I usually OWB an FDE Beretta Nano in the Tahoe, been thinking about getting the Alien Gear vehicle cloak dock system.

Hit 142k tonight....

Don't stress about it! I just rolled over 225k the other night and I'll probably be hitting 226k within a week or two.

Swapped out my license plate lights yesterday with some free LEDs that came with my Anzo headlights and HIDs. Made the appointment for next week: getting a Dynomax muffler, the updated valve cover design, a catch can, and the housings/HIDs installed!

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Nice. I usually OWB an FDE Beretta Nano in the Tahoe, been thinking about getting the Alien Gear vehicle cloak dock system.



Don't stress about it! I just rolled over 225k the other night and I'll probably be hitting 226k within a week or two.

Swapped out my license plate lights yesterday with some free LEDs that came with my Anzo headlights and HIDs. Made the appointment for next week: getting a Dynomax muffler, the updated valve cover design, a catch can, and the housings/HIDs installed!

I'll have to look into the AGCS. This $7 go magnet is pretty legit. The Shield doesn't budge


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[tsuintx]

View attachment 183488

These are the ones i have saved in my cart. Ill check out the r1 before i buy though..

I ordered a similar kit off Amazon a few months ago. Got front and rears for something like 185 bucks. So far so good. Made a noticeable difference in stopping power over stock.

The only beef I have is that the pads were advertised to be "lowest brake dust and most advanced material available" (what ever that means, LOL...), they do dust quite a bit. After cleaning wheels, you can easily see the dust on them in less than a week. Oh well...

 

[iamdub]

I ordered a similar kit off Amazon a few months ago. Got front and rears for something like 185 bucks. So far so good. Made a noticeable difference in stopping power over stock.

The only beef I have is that the pads were advertised to be "lowest brake dust and most advanced material available" (what ever that means, LOL...), they do dust quite a bit. After cleaning wheels, you can easily see the dust on them in less than a week. Oh well...

Nature of slotted rotors. The edges of the slots are like knives and they constantly shave away pad material as they're used.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Nature of slotted rotors. The edges of the slots are like knives and they constantly shave away pad material as they're used.

Dead on, as per usual. It does also, however, account for most of the "noticeable difference" in stopping power. Those slots are adding WAY more friction to the equation.

 

[08HoeCD]

I'm no brake engineer but I question the notion of slots in rotors acting as a cutting area on pads.

These slots appear to be valleys without edges that are raised, or proud, of the flat rotor surface, and they are angled relative the the pads' passing over them. Can they truly serve to cut the pad? Very curious.

It's been my understanding that slotted rotors perform a bit better, but not dramatically better, than solid surface rotors because they facilitate better heat dispersion and minimize glazing, not because they facilitate better bite by virtue of cutting action.

Discuss.

 

[Danny3737]

I've used slotted/drilled rotors a few times. They do help a little in my opinion, but have to be replaced more often. I prefer just upgrading to larger rotors and pads.

 

[Drok]

All washed and ready for some trinova wax

 

[iamdub]

I'm no brake engineer but I question the notion of slots in rotors acting as a cutting area on pads.

These slots appear to be valleys without edges that are raised, or proud, of the flat rotor surface, and they are angled relative the the pads' passing over them. Can they truly serve to cut the pad? Very curious.

It's been my understanding that slotted rotors perform a bit better, but not dramatically better, than solid surface rotors because they facilitate better heat dispersion and minimize glazing, not because they facilitate better bite by virtue of cutting action.

Discuss.

True, the better quality slotted rotors have slots with more of a radiused edge and angled wall than just a sharp corner. But, it's still a flat rotor surface that meets a void. The pad material, on a microscopic level, is still deflecting (being "squished") into this void. The harder the braking- the more that is squished into the void and the more material that is shaved. Yes, this provides more friction. But the primary function of the slot is to evacuate the gasses and heat formed under braking while channeling in ambient air- all which help to cool the rotor and pad which prevents glazing, fading and warping.

I'm a believer in their function. Years back, when cryo-tempered rotors were new to the general market, Powerslot teamed up with a cryogenics company to produce their "Frozen Rotors" line. I had one of the first, if not THE first set on my S10. I was a total ******* to those rotors for 11 years/70,000 miles until I sold the truck. Went through 3 sets of Hawk HP pads (never turned the rotors). I could stand on the brake pedal from 120MPH+ and never get so much as a pull or shimmy in the steering wheel and the brakes bit just as hard as always. The last 20,000 miles I had the truck, the pads were being squished even harder by a hydrabooster. The only thing I ever noticed after all this braking asshattery was a notably heavier coating of dust on the wheels.

I'll use my soapbox time here to give my review on PowerStop rotors. I thought the cryo-tempered rotors from PowerStop were the same as the Frozen PowerSlot. I don't believe they are, or maybe the quality of the base rotor is less. I think PowerStop, PowerSlot, Stop Tech, etc. are all one and the same, using Centric rotors. Assuming I was replicating what I had on my S10, I installed some cryo-tempered PowerStops and Hawk LTS pads (LTS since it's a full-size vehicle). I performed a break-in process by combining PowerStop and Hawk's recommended procedures as they were a little different but not really conflicting. The brakes felt great with more bite than stock and the warping was gone. A few days later, I drove to Tampa, Florida. While slowing down to a red light, the damned warping was back. I hadn't done ANY hard braking. It was less than 1,000 miles, 800+ of which was interstate driving with no brake use, and no hard braking before they started their bucking shit again. I keep seeing positive reviews on R1 rotors so I think I'm gonna give them a shot. These bite great and all, but I can't stand the feelings of warped rotors.