What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[homesick]

I understand.
Can you pop the hood? Can you make a turning motion with your hand/wrist? Can you snap a quick connect fitting on a hose? Like a compressor air hose or power washer hose?
It really is that easy.
But again, i understand.
The only problem i see if its leaking out that fast is you wont have a good defrost mode in the winter because the compressor turns on during defrost to remove the moisture.
That being said, how many cars have we all had that didnt cone with factory air and all we had for defrost was hot air so theres that.
Have it filled every summer and enjoy the cold air
Good luck joe.

I didn't notice any real fall-off in performance until outside temps started breaking 80*, last month. And yeah, I remember having a towel to help the defroster along.

LOL, but now that it's all shiny new, I noticed yesterday that the back of my left hand feeling like I'd been holding it submerged in icy water. And that wasn't even on 'recirculate'.

joe

 

[swathdiver]

I had mine checked and charged this time last year. He couldn't find the leak...

Any thoughts on this? Anyone?

A few years ago mine went hot. I was recovering from several hospital stays and took it to the dealer. They couldn't find anything and knocked off the panel for the rear camera.

I had used the sniffer to look for the leak and couldn't find it. I sent the kids to the store to buy a vacuum pump and the refrigerant and adapters and a manifold. While we were rebuilding the front suspension I pulled the bumper cover off and lo and behold, the leak! It was coming out of the condenser at the lower connection. The sniffer was too far away apparently to pick it up.

Bought an aftermarket gasket from O'Reilly's that leaked right away. So I then bought a new condenser and the line going from it to the accumulator. Turns out the line was shaped wrong so I transferred parts to the old one, put in the new condenser and FACTORY gaskets and charged it up and she's been nice and cold ever since.

It's a story but it's what we did to solve a similar problem.

 

[homesick]

A few years ago mine went hot. I was recovering from several hospital stays and took it to the dealer. They couldn't find anything and knocked off the panel for the rear camera.

I had used the sniffer to look for the leak and couldn't find it. I sent the kids to the store to buy a vacuum pump and the refrigerant and adapters and a manifold. While we were rebuilding the front suspension I pulled the bumper cover off and lo and behold, the leak! It was coming out of the condenser at the lower connection. The sniffer was too far away apparently to pick it up.

Bought an aftermarket gasket from O'Reilly's that leaked right away. So I then bought a new condenser and the line going from it to the accumulator. Turns out the line was shaped wrong so I transferred parts to the old one, put in the new condenser and FACTORY gaskets and charged it up and she's been nice and cold ever since.

It's a story but it's what we did to solve a similar problem.

This is a shop that specializes in car AC, including retrofitting into vehicles that had never had it. I'd hate to discover they're not thorough.

joe

 

[lowh07]

It’s been on jackstands for weeks while I’ve been dealing with Moser and waiting for the Dutchman axles instead. Moser doesn’t know how to ship axles correctly and sucks at customer service.

Received the Dutchman’s Thursday and installed them today. Felt great to drive it again and get it cleaned up.

The new Spohn bar fits great with the TA girdle (low profile version).

 

[Scrappycrow]

Moser doesn’t know how to ship axles correctly and sucks at customer service.

I've had one mostly good experience and one rather frustrating experience with them.

For the first, I ordered a complete new Tri-Five-specific 12-bolt rearend. With shipping, it was ~$2,700. It arrived with the wrong spring perches (too wide); they did acknowledge the problem and offer to send new ones, but I didn't want to mess with the delay of getting the right ones sent and having to find a shop to weld them on properly.

For the second, I needed one-piece AMC 20 axles for my '79 Spirit. All of their online documentation stated they had moved to roller bearings (necessary for my usage) as opposed to ball bearings (good basically only for drag racing), so I didn't ask when ordering. Someone clued me in that they sometimes sent with ball bearings still, so I called up the next day and got a different rep who confirmed they'd be roller bearings. Guess what arrived? Axles machined for ball bearings. I called and got the original rep and asked what we could arrange to correct this. His answer was "nothing" -- he didn't give a rat's ass. I ended up doing a bunch of research on what I could do and discovered that I could buy their ball-to-roller conversion and modify the diff housing ends. That cost me over $100 in parts, a $50 carbide bur, and many days of fastidiously carving out a perfect bearing recess (a gazillion cycles of cutting, marking with fluid, measuring per side).

 

[lowh07]

Yeah, I received 3 different sets from them. I called Moser first to confirm the right part number. The first box was really wrecked so I called Summit and they filed a shipping claim and sent out a new set. The second sets box was also really messed up (pictured) I didn’t want to wait any longer and decided the axles were good enough to use, so I fully installed them and realized they were a tiny bit too short when I put the rotors back on….. Moser then told me there were two different length options and there is no rhyme or reason to it?? Not sure I believe that. So I had to order a third set directly from Moser because Summit didn’t have it. I even called Moser after the second set to tell them they might want to ship these differently. The rep just said “ok” and couldn’t have cared less. They just ship them together with a thin piece of cardboard in between them so they’re just banging around the whole time. I have a video of FedEx dropping the third box on the concrete, and the axle was already hanging out of it with the end totally ripped off, so the axle was directly dropped on the concrete. There was no way I was going to run those. They might have been fine, but who knows what they went through up to that point, and I didn’t want to support them anymore. It should’ve been an obvious shipping claim, but Moser kept saying they had no reason to believe they weren’t usable. At first they tried to give me store credit. Then they said they’d refund me but wouldn’t cover return shipping (it was $75 to ship them back). Dude had an attitude the whole time and said “We are just not picking up the tab because you have chosen not to use the shafts.” So I’m out $75 and all that time. At first they only refunded me the axle cost themselves and not the shipping to me. I’m sure that was deliberate so I called and talked so someone else and they fixed that.

Dutchman was awesome and the axles were perfect. I’m using either them or Strange from now on.

 

[swathdiver]

It’s been on jackstands for weeks while I’ve been dealing with Moser and waiting for the Dutchman axles instead. Moser doesn’t know how to ship axles correctly and sucks at customer service.

Received the Dutchman’s Thursday and installed them today. Felt great to drive it again and get it cleaned up.

Why did you get new axles? Custom differential?

 

[swathdiver]

This is a shop that specializes in car AC, including retrofitting into vehicles that had never had it. I'd hate to discover they're not thorough.

joe

It happens, I hadn't expected the dealership unable to find my leak either, or to break my camera and deny it!

 

[lowh07]

Why did you get new axles? Custom differential?

Future proofing. My axles probably would’ve been the first thing to go when the new engine is in. The 10 bolt is still probably too small if ever get drag radials but idk if I’m even doing that.

 

[swathdiver]

Future proofing. My axles probably would’ve been the first thing to go when the new engine is in. The 10 bolt is still probably too small if ever get drag radials but idk if I’m even doing that.

Ok, so you kept the 10-bolt and put in stronger axles, got it. If you have an aftermarket center section, like a Trutrac and are putting 6.2 like power through it, the time before it requires overhaul will be shorter than the bigger axle or smaller engine but should be fine with occasional use.

I put a 14-bolt in mine to match my pickups and zero timed it with new GM axles.

They came in a heavy crate like box with 2x4s inside and out to protect them. No issues with shipping from Rock Auto.

 

[homesick]

It happens, I hadn't expected the dealership unable to find my leak either, or to break my camera and deny it!

Yeah. It sure can be disappointing.

joe

 

[Doubeleive]

in the future probably better off just have a local shop build a axle for you. just ask the guys at the local track who they have build them, there's always a place or two.
There's atleast 2 places here to me locally and probably a crapton around nor-cal

 

[lowh07]

in the future probably better off just have a local shop build a axle for you. just ask the guys at the local track who they have build them, there's always a place or two.
There's atleast 2 places here to me locally and probably a crapton around nor-cal

yeah, just wanted to save a little money and get the experience. I might preemptively sell it before it breaks if I get radials. I had already put some good money in it and then my power goals changed, or I probably would've got a 14 bolt. I think it's pretty solid for a 10 bolt. Truetrac, Motive performance 4.10s, ARP studs, girdle, and now axles.

 

[2Tahoes1969]

I added a ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit to the front of my 2012 4x4 as well as some 285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT4W Standard Load tires wrapped around some Raceline Ryno 451 17x8.5 (0 Offset) wheels. I'm really stoked with it! Full thoughts are on the lift-review thread https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2012-tahoe-4x4-readylift-2-25-leveling-kit.158752/