Charlie207
Full Access Member
Those two rear plugs, expecially the one on the passenger side, is a fun one.Did spark plugs,wipers, swaybar bushings and an oil change. spark plugs are always fun!
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Those two rear plugs, expecially the one on the passenger side, is a fun one.Did spark plugs,wipers, swaybar bushings and an oil change. spark plugs are always fun!
Yeah, when I bought mine and did the first tire rotation just after 100,000, passenger side was bad and I found that out just by pushing the top of the tire towards the engine and it had some play in there so I got one on order real quick after that and swapped it out.I am about to rotate my tires..... What's the best way to 'check' my bearings,.... just a spin and a wiggle, when of the tires are off the floor?
With 176,000 miles, I sense no issues...
^All that tooyes spin and listen for tink noise or grinding, push back-n-forth at 12 & 6 there should no play at all, at 3 & 9 there is some normal play because of the steering.
normally it should be about dead quiet while spinning, you'll hear the axle moving if 4x4 but there should be no other noise unless your brakes are worn down
if it sounds like rubbing 2 ceramic plates together or you hear a tink, tink, tink sound that's the bearings
When I got my dirt King upper control arms, I did the "upgraded" camber plates that have the multiple drilled holes rather than the open slots so that they cannot adjust themselves unintentionally.I'm about to order some new upper control arms and outer tie rods in preperation for an alignment, and am wondering what would be the reason/s why I'd want to replace the camber bolts/plates? They aren't rusted or wrecked, and I feel like I should be able to just reuse them on both sides.
What are our thoughts on this?
I thought I would have my other engine built and in by now, but instead I guess I'm going to have to buy another set of plugs... Haven't worried about sway bars just yet surprisingly.Did spark plugs,wipers, swaybar bushings and an oil change. spark plugs are always fun!
At least getting them off without leaving the metal parts of them on the plugs and destroying a wire or three.In my experience, getting the wires off the plugs can be just as challenging as getting the plugs out.
Drop knuckles, struts, then shorter springs in the rear and shock extenders you could do a 2-4 drop pretty easilyThinking about lowering the Tahoe LTZ I bought. How hard is it to replace the front springs in the coilovers with drop springs? I haven’t really researched this, being lazy I guess. Or maybe I’m just getting old. Just trying to make this thing look and handle better and I can’t stand how it sits so high especially the rear. Even my dog doesn’t like it, he’s 110 lbs and does not like jumping down.
Or how about bolting the struts under the control arms with grade 9 bolts and add a 1/2”spacer to get a 2”front drop and then 4”drop springs in the rear?Drop knuckles, struts, then shorter springs in the rear and shock extenders you could do a 2-4 drop pretty easily
I don't particularly like relying on the tensile strength of the bolts to keep my vehicle up, but that said, there has been air under all four tires a few timesOr how about bolting the struts under the control arms with grade 9 bolts and add a 1/2”spacer to get a 2”front drop and then 4”drop springs in the rear?
Ya I guess if you wanted to go super economic with itOr how about bolting the struts under the control arms with grade 9 bolts and add a 1/2”spacer to get a 2”front drop and then 4”drop springs in the rear?
Why not cheap and easy? If others have done it why not me I figure. I also found these 1/2”spacers on Amazon. they’re advertised for a 1/2” lift. I’ll use them under the control arm instead of on top, so they’ll give me a 2”drop.Rough Country used to sell a 2”drop kit that included grade 9 hardware and 1/2” spacers just like the parts I put together. This will cost me about $60 for a 2” front drop. I’ll order some 4” drop springs for the rear. I can make some ride height sensor rods for the rear auto level since I just replaced the shocks and compressor and I’ll be able to tow like I do with my 02.Ya I guess if you wanted to go super economic with it
Like others here have said, the control arms will break before grade 10 (or even grade 9) bolts and nuts. I’m not scared. I won’t be jumping railroad tracks anyway. @Doug118 had 40k miles on his at the time of his post regarding this setup.I don't particularly like relying on the tensile strength of the bolts to keep my vehicle up, but that said, there has been air under all four tires a few times
If it worksWhy not cheap and easy? If others have done it why not me I figure. I also found these 1/2”spacers on Amazon. they’re advertised for a 1/2” lift. I’ll use them under the control arm instead of on top, so they’ll give me a 2”drop.Rough Country used to sell a 2”drop kit that included grade 9 hardware and 1/2” spacers just like the parts I put together. This will cost me about $60 for a 2” front drop. I’ll order some 4” drop springs for the rear. I can make some ride height sensor rods for the rear auto level since I just replaced the shocks and compressor and I’ll be able to tow like I do with my 02.
I pulled the tire off, And pulled the fender liner back. About as Good as it's gonna get for that one against the fire wall.Those two rear plugs, expecially the one on the passenger side, is a fun one.
If i wanted a 4" drop in front. would this work with drop struts, and NOT need 2" drop spindles? Or would i need the spindles to keep alignment within spec?Ok, I just ordered some grade 10 bolts and nuts from McMaster-Carr that @Doug118 linked in this thread about doing the strut flip. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/front-strut-“flip”-as-a-lowering-option.139425/#post-1752032
Could you link me those 1/2 spacers? I dont wanna go crazy lift but I wanna get rid of the front squat on my Yukon. I think the Rough Country ones are to thick and would force me to get the back raised. I really just want to raise the front a little bit.Why not cheap and easy? If others have done it why not me I figure. I also found these 1/2”spacers on Amazon. they’re advertised for a 1/2” lift. I’ll use them under the control arm instead of on top, so they’ll give me a 2”drop.Rough Country used to sell a 2”drop kit that included grade 9 hardware and 1/2” spacers just like the parts I put together. This will cost me about $60 for a 2” front drop. I’ll order some 4” drop springs for the rear. I can make some ride height sensor rods for the rear auto level since I just replaced the shocks and compressor and I’ll be able to tow like I do with my 02.