My bad. One of the members of our friend group had one before marrying another member of the group. They got rid of theirs shortly after their first kid.Buick Reatta.
2 seat businessman’s coupe.
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My bad. One of the members of our friend group had one before marrying another member of the group. They got rid of theirs shortly after their first kid.Buick Reatta.
2 seat businessman’s coupe.
I pulled the radio and the AMP fuse. So far, no "reduced engine power". But it is intermittent, so I am testing the crap out of it before saying that's it.When I was trying to upload a blackbear tune I was getting those errors and I ended up pulling the fuse called CHMS (I think is mean chimes but could be wrong) and the radio fuse. Anyways it was causing communication interference.
Hope it works don't forget about that CHSM (google says CHMSL) which it says has something to do with trailer lights?I pulled the radio and the AMP fuse. So far, no "reduced engine power". But it is intermittent, so I am testing the crap out of it before saying that's it.
THANK you so much for the suggestion! I don't know if that's the fix, but it sure was an unconsidered path before you suggested it.
News to meAnytime you're programming it's recommended to remove power from any aftermarket devices.
News to me
I didn't see a fuse labelled that. So it's just the Amp fuse and the radio fuse. We're driving it around the house/city streets where limp mode isn't as much of a problem and it's driving fine. My wife has built up confidence to try driving it to work again!Hope it works don't forget about that CHSM (google says CHMSL) which it says has something to do with trailer lights?
I dunno, but it was really the one that did it for me if I remember right.
BlackBear was the real hero, I guess I wasn't the only one getting that error when trying to communicate with the port and upload a tune.
Glad it's going good so far hope that is a real step in narrowing the problem, just for my own sanity I found the fuse I was talking about it is in the alternate fuse box location (drivers side dash)I didn't see a fuse labelled that. So it's just the Amp fuse and the radio fuse. We're driving it around the house/city streets where limp mode isn't as much of a problem and it's driving fine. My wife has built up confidence to try driving it to work again!
I let her know the risks and greenlit her going if she accepted them.
Looks good. Just wet sand it a little.I tried my luck on body work last weekend. I had these horrible deep scratches at the bottom of my 06 Suburban door and a nasty dent near the handle. I took off the door, did body filler, primer, base and clear.
I had to go but one of those 3M wheels to remove the adhesive from the door trim.
It came out a little orange-peel on the clear, but decent. I used the mid-grade HVLP HF gun for everything. I was supposed to another HTE gun I have for the clear only as it atomizer better, but didn't feel like getting another gun dirty. It's certainly better than before...
Yup cut and buff it will look like a mirror and put the rest of the truck to shame. Then you'll have to paint it allI tried my luck on body work last weekend. I had these horrible deep scratches at the bottom of my 06 Suburban door and a nasty dent near the handle. I took off the door, did body filler, primer, base and clear.
I had to go buy one of those 3M wheels to remove the adhesive from the door trim.
It came out a little orange-peel on the clear, but decent. I used the mid-grade HVLP HF gun for everything. I was supposed to another HTE gun I have for the clear only as it atomizer better, but didn't feel like getting another gun dirty. It's certainly better than before...
Oh, Man. I was afraid of that, LOL.Yup cut and buff it will look like a mirror and put the rest of the truck to shame. Then you'll have to paint it all![]()
Thanks! She tried to drive it to work, Friday last week, and she got "reduced engine power" again. I did get a reader on it, and the knock sensor circuit has low voltage on it. So I think there's a parasitic draw, somewhere -- likely a corroded and/or partially broken wire.Glad it's going good so far hope that is a real step in narrowing the problem, just for my own sanity I found the fuse I was talking about it is in the alternate fuse box location (drivers side dash)
How much of a difference did the Killmat make? I'm planning to do the same thing to mine over the winter.I finished my interior upgrade
Added Denali Wood grain dash bezel and console (after painting the beat up gray).
View attachment 436852View attachment 436853
New Seat Bottom cover.
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Remove carpet and cleaned it.
Put down Kilmat sound deadener on the floor.
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Drove it this morning, started in "reduced engine power mode." So I stopped, reset the codes with my scanner, and drove on like nothing was broken. Funniest "repair" I've ever made.Thanks! She tried to drive it to work, Friday last week, and she got "reduced engine power" again. I did get a reader on it, and the knock sensor circuit has low voltage on it. So I think there's a parasitic draw, somewhere -- likely a corroded and/or partially broken wire.