What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Dantheman1540]

I had NAPA Ultra-Premium Polymer Coated discs with NAPA Gold Premium ceramic pads on my Jeep. Going to those again for my Tahoe the next set of brakes needed. Discs looked like brand new, even after 3 salty New England winters! Pads were awesome. Greta stopping and practically no dust. The discs were amazing, though!

NAPA makes nice stuff I used them in the past on another truck, but the cost is not worth it to me for this project. The overall braking performance of the truck with the 2020+ 4piston caliper set up in the front, hydro boost master cylinder, and stainless brake lines all around is stellar! Since this is just a basic replacement for the rears which probably do less than 30% of the work in this application I just want a quiet dust-free replacement. I'll send the calipers to be rebuilt and powdered to match the fronts but that's only because he's cheaper than buying new OEM replacements. I think these are the original calipers and at 280k I think it would be silly not to address that.

I still really want to come up with a way to either adapt the 2020+ 4 piston calipers to the rear or find some other budget-friendly (under $1k) rear brake upgrade that has an attractive-looking caliper.

 

[MassHoe04]

Recently, I had an ABS code related to the right front speed sensor come up. The code cleared and was gone for almost a week. Running fine.

Found out the recent Right Front ABS sensor issues were 100% caused by failing hub.

Made a big POW and grinding noise driving home from Home Depot.
This is what I found in the morning... It spit out bearing rollers like a hockey player spits teeth!

I was able to pull the front half of the hub off by hand as soon as I got the axle nut removed.

Removing the back half of the hub was the fun part!
The only thing that got the hub to pop out was backing the bolts out about a half inch and beating the snot out of the bolts. I am so glad I bought the new bolts!!! I am keeping these to use again the next time...

This all that remained after the hub ate the ABS sensor...
New hub had sensor included.

Here is the new hub. I did not go low-grade, because I could get the better hub with 20% discount this week from NAPA. It was https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGBR930304?impressionRank=1

Someone more knowledgable can tell me more...
It is an SKF part BR930304.
From a quick search, I saw some information that SKF was OE supplier to GM and may actually be Timken.
Let me know.

Usually with NAPA, the higher price item really is the premium product from the major OE suppliers. I have never been disappointed any time I went with their higher-priced items.

I still had time to get out and mow the lawn after I was done.
All is good in the neighborhood. No ABS codes and everything feels tight.

 

[MassHoe04]

NAPA makes nice stuff I used them in the past on another truck, but the cost is not worth it to me for this project. The overall braking performance of the truck with the 2020+ 4piston caliper set up in the front, hydro boost master cylinder, and stainless brake lines all around is stellar! Since this is just a basic replacement for the rears which probably do less than 30% of the work in this application I just want a quiet dust-free replacement. I'll send the calipers to be rebuilt and powdered to match the fronts but that's only because he's cheaper than buying new OEM replacements. I think these are the original calipers and at 280k I think it would be silly not to address that.

I still really want to come up with a way to either adapt the 2020+ 4 piston calipers to the rear or find some other budget-friendly (under $1k) rear brake upgrade that has an attractive-looking caliper.

I hear ya! I had brake pads and rotors that got really bad and needed replacement in a hurry. I went with basic budget pads and rotors. The the caliper locked and had to get new calipers. Went with mid-level stock calipers.

Just remember, that the big brakes need more clearance. So you may need 18 inch or bigger wheels, if you don't already have them.

 

[Rocket Man]

Recently, I had an ABS code related to the right front speed sensor come up. The code cleared and was gone for almost a week. Running fine.

Found out the recent Right Front ABS sensor issues were 100% caused by failing hub.

Made a big POW and grinding noise driving home from Home Depot.
This is what I found in the morning... It spit out bearing rollers like a hockey player spits teeth!
View attachment 371379

I was able to pull the front half of the hub off by hand as soon as I got the axle nut removed.
View attachment 371378

Removing the back half of the hub was the fun part!
The only thing that got the hub to pop out was backing the bolts out about a half inch and beating the snot out of the bolts. I am so glad I bought the new bolts!!! I am keeping these to use again the next time...

This all that remained after the hub ate the ABS sensor...
New hub had sensor included.
View attachment 371382

View attachment 371380

Here is the new hub. I did not go low-grade, because I could get the better hub with 20% discount this week from NAPA. It was https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGBR930304?impressionRank=1

Someone more knowledgable can tell me more...
It is an SKF part BR930304.
From a quick search, I saw some information that SKF was OE supplier to GM and may actually be Timken.
Let me know.

Usually with NAPA, the higher price item really is the premium product from the major OE suppliers. I have never been disappointed any time I went with their higher-priced items.

View attachment 371381

I still had time to get out and mow the lawn after I was done.
All is good in the neighborhood. No ABS codes and everything feels tight.

I think you’re right on the SKF info. If they’re not made by Timken, they’re as good as, from what I hear.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I hear ya! I had brake pads and rotors that got really bad and needed replacement in a hurry. I went with basic budget pads and rotors. The the caliper locked and had to get new calipers. Went with mid-level stock calipers.

Just remember, that the big brakes need more clearance. So you may need 18 inch or bigger wheels, if you don't already have them.

Calipers locking are up scary! Not sure how the pad or rotor quality could have caused that tho. I had a caliper lock up in another truck while I was heading to go camping in the Black Hills of SD. by the time I could find a safe spot to pull over the brake had gotten so hot that when I splashed water on the wheel it immediately sizzled off! Having minimal tools and being by myself I simply tapped the caliper with a hammer after it cooled off, it unlocked and the camping trip resumed. I did swap the caliper put shortly after the trip.

I've had the bigger front brakes for a year or so and probably 15k or more miles, they are the best brake upgrade I've ever done other than swapping to hydro-boost. They are also wearing very well, the pads are very meaty still.

 

[ratled]

I hear ya! I had brake pads and rotors that got really bad and needed replacement in a hurry. I went with basic budget pads and rotors. The the caliper locked and had to get new calipers. Went with mid-level stock calipers.

Just remember, that the big brakes need more clearance. So you may need 18 inch or bigger wheels, if you don't already have them.

Did the ABS and the P Brake light come on?

 

[MassHoe04]

I think you’re right on the SKF info. If they’re not made by Timken, they’re as good as, from what I hear.

I do feel comfortable with my choice. With 20% off this weekend, I got the SKF (Timken) for $159, which was the regular price of the cheaper product line. So not a bad deal!

FYI for other members to keep in mind for future reference:
This is the source I was referring to... Dodge guy opened Timken box and found "SKF" stamped on the part.

Timken or SKF Bearings????

www.cumminsforum.com

 

[MassHoe04]

Did the ABS and the P Brake light come on?

No. Just the ABS.

About two weeks ago, the ABS came on and stayed on. Scanned with Tech 2. Right front ABS Speed Sensor codes C0221 (circuit open) was the active code for that sensor when the light tripped. History showed C0222 (Signal Missing) and C0223 (Signal Erratic). Then the code cleared and never showed for the last week or so.

Everything was good until the bearing blew out and ate the ABS sensor when it grenaded. I knew by the sound and feel up front when it happened, plus seeing the ABS light come on, my hub was toast.

Left hub feels tight and sounds healthy. I'll keep an eye on it and replace at some point before winter. Since I already replaced a speed sensor on that side last year (has been code free since), I'll know the second I get another sensor code for the left side, that the hub is causing signal issues and showing early signs of pending failure.

 

[Sam Harris]

Some overhead door techs are just assholes, and I'm qualified to say that.

I suggest LEDs in operators since the vibrations kill standard bulbs. In my day, we had to suggest "rough service" bulbs. But, they're pricey and that was before LEDs were common.

and those rough service bulbs don't last any longer at all from my experience. The coating just heats and peels off.. POS

 

[Sam Harris]

LEDs designed to not interfere with remote reception? The ones "back then" were labeled as "rough service". Some brands labeled them specifically for garage door operator use to charge more. But, they were just regular rough service bulbs, designed marketed to better withstand vibrations.

FYP

 

[Walchit]

That's the one!

Idk of you like electronic music, but they broke up, and I'm sad. It was all live and improvised. With some crazy lazers projected on the mountains. I went like 3 years in a row.

The one in Larimer County, north of Fort Collins? Poudre Canyon?

 

[iamdub]

FYP

Agreed!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Recently, I had an ABS code related to the right front speed sensor come up. The code cleared and was gone for almost a week. Running fine.

Found out the recent Right Front ABS sensor issues were 100% caused by failing hub.

Made a big POW and grinding noise driving home from Home Depot.
This is what I found in the morning... It spit out bearing rollers like a hockey player spits teeth!
View attachment 371379

I was able to pull the front half of the hub off by hand as soon as I got the axle nut removed.
View attachment 371378

Removing the back half of the hub was the fun part!
The only thing that got the hub to pop out was backing the bolts out about a half inch and beating the snot out of the bolts. I am so glad I bought the new bolts!!! I am keeping these to use again the next time...
View attachment 371380
This all that remained after the hub ate the ABS sensor...
New hub had sensor included.
View attachment 371382


Here is the new hub. I did not go low-grade, because I could get the better hub with 20% discount this week from NAPA. It was https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGBR930304?impressionRank=1

Someone more knowledgable can tell me more...
It is an SKF part BR930304.
From a quick search, I saw some information that SKF was OE supplier to GM and may actually be Timken.
Let me know.

Usually with NAPA, the higher price item really is the premium product from the major OE suppliers. I have never been disappointed any time I went with their higher-priced items.

View attachment 371381

I still had time to get out and mow the lawn after I was done.
All is good in the neighborhood. No ABS codes and everything feels tight.

Same exact thing happened to mine. The ds. All the bearings also fell on the ground. Front part of the hub fell right off, but the rear part wouldn't. I beat on it for hours with no luck. Bought an air chisel from HF for under $30 and it came off in 1 minute!
The wheel was still bolted to the hub with all 6 lugs.

After I pulled the wheel off. I didn't mess with anything else yet--other then taking the rotor and caliper off.

We had just came back from driving an hour too. Pretty damn scary.

 

[mountie]

Ok,... you guys are making me nervous..... my '05 Yukon XL 4wd, with 160,000 on the clock, seems just fine... But is there a process to have my mechanic pull off the front wheels and inspect the front axles?

( if so, what could the cost be? ..... It's not about the money... I just want to make a plan for preventative maintenance.

 

[MassHoe04]

Same exact thing happened to mine. The ds. All the bearings also fell on the ground. Front part of the hub fell right off, but the rear part wouldn't. I beat on it for hours with no luck. Bought an air chisel from HF for under $30 and it came off in 1 minute!View attachment 371403View attachment 371404
The wheel was still bolted to the hub with all 6 lugs.

After I pulled the wheel off. I didn't mess with anything else yet--other then taking the rotor and caliper off.

We had just came back from driving an hour too. Pretty damn scary.

WOW! I will be getting my dad's old compressor as soon as I have room in my basement. A chisel will be one of the tools to go with it. It is an old Sears (Devilbiss) 30 gallon, but it put out great C.F.M. for tools.

Yeah, I was real lucky. It happened about 3.5 miles from the house, I was going about 35 MPH and was able to pull safely into a business driveway right away.

I have a rinky-**** propane torch nozzle that doesn't work that great and keeps blowing out. Not that hot and not effective.

I thought I was going to be in a real pickle getting the back half of the hub off the knuckle. I was amazed using the bolts to drive it out really worked. That hub was really locked in there solid!!

When ordering the hub online (while I was waiting for AAA flatbed), I was on the fence regarding buying new hub bolts. But when I was at the counter picking up the hub the next morning, I told the guy "if I buy them, I might not need them and can bring them back. If I don't buy them, I know I will snap one or something stupid will happen. LOL" That was the best $27 I ever spent!

Since you only need to thread them in part way by hand in order to bang the hub out, I am keeping the beat-up bolts for the next hub replacement.

A calm head and determination saved my butt and I feel more confident the next one will be easier. OK, maybe not easier. But, at least I have learned a few different tricks to bail me out next time.

I am learning a lot because of all you guys on TYF! Thanks!

 

[Fless]

I have a rinky-**** propane torch nozzle that doesn't work that great and keeps blowing out. Not that hot and not effective.

You can use MAPP gas in a propane torch, and it burns hotter than propane.

 

[MassHoe04]

Ok,... you guys are making me nervous..... my '05 Yukon XL 4wd, with 160,000 on the clock, seems just fine... But is there a process to have my mechanic pull off the front wheels and inspect the front axles?

( if so, what could the cost be? ..... It's not about the money... I just want to make a plan for preventative maintenance.

You can go to a mechanic, but you can also do a DIY check for free. If something is bad, you will most likely be able feel and hear it for yourself.

Jack up the front to get the tire off the ground. Grab the tire and try to wiggle side to side, top to bottom. Spin the wheel. There should be no movement when trying to wiggle the tire and no noise (no clunks, rubbing or grinding noises). You may hear pads drag a tiny bit on the rotor, but no weird noises.

It just got inspected in October and everything was good then. I got ABS speed sensor code, which I thought was the only issue. I neglected to inspect the hub, because it drove fine and was good when checked a few months ago. I assumed the ABS code was just an ABS code and not the hub. I know now, exactly what it was...

 

[MassHoe04]

You can use MAPP gas in a propane torch, and it burns hotter than propane.

The torch nozzle is not great. It barely shuts off, so I never leave it attached to the tank when not actually in use... Time for an upgrade.

Funny that auto-censor would not allow "rinky-sink" with a "d"... Seemed like a G-rated phrase to me! Heck! There was a toy for kids named "Shrinky-Sink" when I was a kid. LOL

 

[mountie]

You can go to a mechanic, but you can also do a DIY check for free. If something is bad, you will most likely be able feel and hear it for yourself.

Jack up the front to get the tire off the ground. Grab the tire and try to wiggle side to side, top to bottom. Spin the wheel. There should be no movement when trying to wiggle the tire and no noise (no clunks, rubbing or grinding noises). You may hear pads drag a tiny bit on the rotor, but no weird noises.

It just got inspected in October and everything was good then. I got ABS speed sensor code, which I thought was the only issue. I neglected to inspect the hub, because it drove fine and was good when checked a few months ago. I assumed the ABS code was just an ABS code and not the hub. I know now, exactly what it was...

Thanks for the advice..... 2 years ago I had a nice truck shop install my Powerstop rotors, etc. They would have told me if something was not right. ( I will react if the ABS code pops up)...

And,... I will continue to drive slowly over speed bumps!

 

[MassHoe04]

Thanks for the advice..... 2 years ago I had a nice truck shop install my Powerstop rotors, etc. They would have told me if something was not right. ( I will react if the ABS code pops up)...

And,... I will continue to drive slowly over speed bumps!

A lot can happen in two years. Mine seemed OK when my mechanic and and RMV inspector checked front end stuff in October of last year. Do the DIY check ASAP and often. Go for second opinion, if anything is in question. Better safe, than sorry.