What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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clandr1

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I did the same, front and back plus steering components to regain that 'new ride' ride. Don't overlook your control arm and rear axle bumpers. :favorites37:
Thanks for the suggestion! The steering components are relatively new (all less than 3 years old), and I show I replaced the bump stops, front and rear, about 4 years ago. Visually they look to be in good shape. Really excited to replace the original front upper control arms - I think it'll solve a slight pull I've had for the last 3 years, and might resolve a clunk I get on occasion when I am turning on uneven surfaces.
 

ScottyBoy

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ive had pass rear dead window regulator or motor for ohhhh, say 3 years now lol i bought 4 new regulators 5 years ago on close out at rock auto. (cause dirt cheap and you know one day they all gonna die) bought two new motors for the pass side 3 years ago now. (front pass window is kinda slow) today was the day i finally changed it, i feel super lazy about it now cause it was stupid easy to change. like i know they are not hard, but the backs, my god, to easy.

needless to say, but ive got a working pass back window again.
I am ashamed to admit, I am in the same boat. My rear passenger side regulator started acting up almost a year ago. It had trouble going up and it was making horrible crunching sounds. I finally got it rolled up, and I ordered a new regulator/motor assembly from Rockauto. It's been sitting in my storage shed ever since. I just haven't gotten around to replacing it because I don't ever roll that window down. Lol
 

Scottydoggs

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I am ashamed to admit, I am in the same boat. My rear passenger side regulator started acting up almost a year ago. It had trouble going up and it was making horrible crunching sounds. I finally got it rolled up, and I ordered a new regulator/motor assembly from Rockauto. It's been sitting in my storage shed ever since. I just haven't gotten around to replacing it because I don't ever roll that window down. Lol
same deal here. if it was the d/s back it would have been fixed long ago. mine was shut for so long it was glued up in the frame, the popping noise it made when it came down was loud lol
 

Tonyrodz

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Does anyone know the part number or where/how i can find the rear brake line on the ds that goes from that little brass "splitter that's mounted above the rearend(pumpkin) housing. Line goes from there into the rubber brake line that goes into the caliper. I have copper replacement line with the fittings to make my own line, but I'd rather buy it if it's available--and cheap enough.
 

Scottydoggs

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Does anyone know the part number or where/how i can find the rear brake line on the ds that goes from that little brass "splitter that's mounted above the rearend(pumpkin) housing. Line goes from there into the rubber brake line that goes into the caliper. I have copper replacement line with the fittings to make my own line, but I'd rather buy it if it's available--and cheap enough.
rear center is what your looking for. ac delco is like 10 bucks more listed at the bottom.

 

Tonyrodz

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rear center is what your looking for. ac delco is like 10 bucks more listed at the bottom.

I don't think that's the one. Pretty sure that's the JL4 center rubber line, which i don't have.
I was able to grab this from a video. It's a hard line not rubber. Screenshot_20250407_180421_Samsung Internet.jpg
This is the one I'm looking for.
 

Fless

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I don't think that's the one. Pretty sure that's the JL4 center rubber line, which i don't have.
I was able to grab this from a video. It's a hard line not rubber.View attachment 454398
This is the one I'm looking for.

Looks like this one and goes to connect to the rubber line that's on the caliper:

DSCF1190.JPG
 

Rocket Man

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Does anyone know the part number or where/how i can find the rear brake line on the ds that goes from that little brass "splitter that's mounted above the rearend(pumpkin) housing. Line goes from there into the rubber brake line that goes into the caliper. I have copper replacement line with the fittings to make my own line, but I'd rather buy it if it's available--and cheap enough.
Looks like those were originally cut to length, probably had to flair and fittings added. At least from what I see. I’d just make my own, it’s what I did on my Silverado with it’s narrowed rear end.
IMG_0129.png
 

dps01

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Beautiful day in N TX to spend some quality time with the Tahoe…

Changed oil / filter and fuel filter.

Mocked up some parts sitting around the the garage for years…. Need some additional fittings to finish it up.

Eventually will hook up to air bladders in the rear springs and have a regulator & fitting to air up the tires…
IMG_2071.jpeg
IMG_2075.jpeg
 

bubbz22

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About a month ago I swapped to new Denali headlights off RockAuto. I got the Eagle Eyes ones, and so far they are great quality. Also put some LED's in them. The turn signals came from ebay, and no issues so far. Also did LED tail lights, but failed to get a pic.
headlights.jpg
new hl.jpg
old hl.jpg


Also got my front two windows tinted @25% and the windshield @50%. It's not too dark but does cut down on sun glare quite a bit.
visors&tint.jpg
 
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bubbz22

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This weekend, I finally did a dry fit on my 2020+ brakes and 17" wheels from a 2020+ Silverado. Everything fits great with plenty of clearance! Now I have to get my tires swapped to the new wheels and get everything mounted up. I got the Goodridge stainless line kit, still deciding if I'm going to do the rear lines when I do the front upgrade. I may just save those until I need to do pads in the back. I have new GMC center caps for the wheels too, just didn't swap this one for the dry fit.

Also replaced the Multifunction switch, so now my high beams don't come on when I turn the right blinker on!

wheel.jpg
brake.jpg

brake 2.jpg
 
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Tonyrodz

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This weekend, I finally did a dry fit on my 2020+ brakes and 17" wheels from a 2020+ Silverado. Everything fits great with plenty of clearance! Now I have to get my tires swapped to the new wheels and get everything mounted up. I got the Goodridge stainless line kit, still deciding if I'm going to do the rear lines when I do the front upgrade. I may just save those until I need to do pads in the back. I have new GMC center caps for the wheels too, just didn't swap this one for the dry fit.

Also replaced the Multifunction switch, so now my high beams don't come on when I turn the right blinker on!

View attachment 454813View attachment 454814
View attachment 454815
My blinker turns my high beams on too--when I hit my right blinker. How hard was it to change the multi function switch?
Also I think you should swap the rear lines to braided when you do the fronts. I did all 4 of mine at the same time--make sure the new lines are out of the way of any suspension movement.
 

bubbz22

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My blinker turns my high beams on too--when I hit my right blinker. How hard was it to change the multi function switch?
Also I think you should swap the rear lines to braided when you do the fronts. I did all 4 of mine at the same time--make sure the new lines are out of the way of any suspension movement.
Honestly the hardest part was putting the plastic clamshell back around the steering column. Instructions tell you to remove the steering wheel in order to get to the lower bolt. I used a t25 bit and a 1/4 ratcheting wrench and had just enough room to get it out. I used this video for reference:
 

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