Agreed. It's not that difficult to drop the tank; even this old guy did his own on jackstands in the home garage.
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
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Agreed. It's not that difficult to drop the tank; even this old guy did his own on jackstands in the home garage.
Let's discuss.
As a fellow older guy (I'll be 66 this summer) I recall GM providing fuel pump access panels in trunks or under rear seats in some of their vehicles along with other domestic and foreign manufacturers. Several older Volvo, BMW, Toyotas and newer Jeep Cherokee also pop up in a Google query. What I view as an omission from GM became a vehicle enhancement to reintroduce.
I'd previously posted here on TYF the desire to create a factory looking access panel under the Tahoe's rear seat to replicate the parts servicing mentality GM exercised in the past. The intent was to remove a stamped floor section from a Tahoe being parted out, give it a final shape, match the paint color and then cut a smaller opening in my floor for the panel to cover. Done correctly, adding a fuel pump access panel improves upon the vehicle's serviceability. Plus, hanging around aircraft mechanics will have you considering parts replacement intervals before assessing a part's average life expectancy. I prefer proactive to reactive whenever possible.
My only disappointment is not creating the panel before actually needing it to replace the fuel pump. Although having already bought the pump, filter and regulator with the intent of replacement before failure, a hidden scar now sits where a fancy pants access panel should exist.
Having shared what I consider pros, cons would be sloppy work, ill advised methods, poor safety precautions and just being cheap. In those instances I agree 100% with @ScottyBoy and @Fless
My wife thinks I may still create and install a legit access panel. She may be right.
latvius
Full Access Member
I cut a access door in mine, did it to my 95 Bronco where they even sell the prepunched style flooring to do it. I also want to go back and create a door as opposed to a flat panel, I used blind nuts to screw it down. One mans hack is another's mod.
latvius
Full Access Member
Installed this light set. I had some spyder from years ago that only lit up 5 feet in front of you.
Only bad thing I would say is adjusting them will be a real pita, other than that seems like good stuff.
Only bad thing I would say is adjusting them will be a real pita, other than that seems like good stuff.
Polished and waxed the truck yesterday, also i am a big fan of the cerakote trim wipes, they work very well and I only use half the box at a time
Leaving this morning with my dad on the gm tailgate tour
gmtailgatetour.com
Leaving this morning with my dad on the gm tailgate tour
GM Tailgate Tour | A road trip for GM trucks
gmtailgatetour.com
clandr1
Full Access Member
Last week I took the family on a trip from DFW to Hot Springs, AR. Only two issues:
1. My parking brake release cable broke on the first day.
2. The red reflector fell out of my passenger rear door.
$40 later, Amazon had replacement parts waiting on my porch when we returned home, and it took me about 5 minutes to make both fixes.
Yesterday I hand washed it, and enjoyed the beautiful weather in North Texas with the windows down and sunroof back while I ran a few errands. I have almost everything I need to revamp the rear suspension (upper/lower control arms, lateral link, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings) and will attack that within the next 30 days, if I can find time.
1. My parking brake release cable broke on the first day.
2. The red reflector fell out of my passenger rear door.
$40 later, Amazon had replacement parts waiting on my porch when we returned home, and it took me about 5 minutes to make both fixes.
Yesterday I hand washed it, and enjoyed the beautiful weather in North Texas with the windows down and sunroof back while I ran a few errands. I have almost everything I need to revamp the rear suspension (upper/lower control arms, lateral link, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings) and will attack that within the next 30 days, if I can find time.
Put the battery tender on it. It's been a few weeks since anyone drove it and I won't be able to have it out for another couple of weeks. Cheap insurance while it sits. But it'll be out and about (or oot and aboot if you're up north) as soon as I can get out of the foot boot after surgery a month ago.
Kind of hard to be oot and aboot in a foot boot eh?
Kind of hard to be oot and aboot in a foot boot eh?
Say that real fast 5 times! Yeah, now down to less than 5 days, but who's counting?
clandr1
Full Access Member
Nothing major today, just changed the oil and took a sample to send off to Blackstone while I was at it. Figure I can never be too careful with 282k on the motor.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Thought I might have seen you on Rolater last Friday, but the black Yukon I saw looked like it had a bigger roof rack almost z-71 style.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
She bit me in the ass again. Drove it to work yesterday morning and 1/2 to work i had almost no brakes. Made it to work ok. Checked it later and found the rear line i replaced last week wasn't secured and broke after being pinched between the frame and bump stop. Luckily I had another line with me--pack of 2. Replaced that, then the line was leaking like a faucet at the compression fitting--what I had fixed last time. Gave up and drove it home with no brakes.
ScottyBoy
Full Access Member
I parked it, because the transmission will not shift above 30-40mph. I cab actually get it up to almost 70, but only if I rev the engine to like 4500 rpms. I was able to attach least limp it home like that. I am hoping it's not something major. Maybe a shift solenoid or something? It's always shifted perfectly fine, no issues at all. Fluid is changed about every 3 years or so. Its probably due to be replaced, but its definitely not dark or burnt or anything, its still bright red. I called tge shop who rebuilt the transmission about 10 years ago, and they said that they can't even look at it until the 2nd week of April.
clandr1
Full Access Member
I installed a Rhino Rack Pioneer platform a couple years back - you probably saw me!
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
This hose was a week old.
It wasn't leaking, it was actually squirting out whenever the pedal was stepped on.
It wasn't leaking, it was actually squirting out whenever the pedal was stepped on.
You need to use clamps to keep them secure and away from moving parts!
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I agree. I wasn't even thinking that could happen. I did use zip ties this time.You need to use clamps to keep them secure and away from moving parts!
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
ive had pass rear dead window regulator or motor for ohhhh, say 3 years now lol i bought 4 new regulators 5 years ago on close out at rock auto. (cause dirt cheap and you know one day they all gonna die) bought two new motors for the pass side 3 years ago now. (front pass window is kinda slow) today was the day i finally changed it, i feel super lazy about it now cause it was stupid easy to change. like i know they are not hard, but the backs, my god, to easy.
needless to say, but ive got a working pass back window again.
needless to say, but ive got a working pass back window again.
clandr1
Full Access Member
Edited to add: the pics below were taken BEFORE we did a final tighten/torque of all the nuts and bolts.
Original post:
My truck turns 20 next month. As of today I have 283,030 miles.
Today I replaced the following with OEM GM parts:
rear upper control arms
rear lower control arms
rear track bar/lateral link
rear sway bar end links
rear sway bar bushings
It took me and a friend about 3 hours start to finish. No real issues. The worst part of the job was the 10mm bolts that hold the sway bar bushing straps on. I had to hit them with heat and even then they were sticking and squeaking the entire time I was removing them. I was so worried I would snap one, but thankfully made it through. I used a wire wheel to clean up any bolts that looked rusted/dirty, and I used anti seize when reinstalling.
The old ones didn't look like they were in bad shape. I didn't drive it much after finishing so time and miles will tell if there was a big improvement anywhere. Next up: Front sway bar bushings and front upper control arms.
Original post:
My truck turns 20 next month. As of today I have 283,030 miles.
Today I replaced the following with OEM GM parts:
rear upper control arms
rear lower control arms
rear track bar/lateral link
rear sway bar end links
rear sway bar bushings
It took me and a friend about 3 hours start to finish. No real issues. The worst part of the job was the 10mm bolts that hold the sway bar bushing straps on. I had to hit them with heat and even then they were sticking and squeaking the entire time I was removing them. I was so worried I would snap one, but thankfully made it through. I used a wire wheel to clean up any bolts that looked rusted/dirty, and I used anti seize when reinstalling.
The old ones didn't look like they were in bad shape. I didn't drive it much after finishing so time and miles will tell if there was a big improvement anywhere. Next up: Front sway bar bushings and front upper control arms.
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