Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

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j91z28d1

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Yup! That's exactly what it is. I took a bunch more pictures, but you found it! Thanks so much for taking a look at this.

The only thing I've been getting very intermittently is a service suspension system that will just come on every now and then.

I'm wondering if this could cause that?

oh yes, that 100% will set lights and I'd bet if you have scanned that can read the non standard chassis codes in the module there should be some fault codes for sensor out of range or something.

it uses those sensors to adjust shock damping if you have the mag ride which I'm guessing you do. the rear ones do the mag ride and if you have airbags adjust ride height. pretty important stuff
 
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bobby2175

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oh yes, that 100% will set lights and I'd bet if you have scanned that can read the non standard chassis codes in the module there should be some fault codes for sensor out of range or something.

it uses those sensors to adjust shock damping if you have the mag ride which I'm guessing you do. the rear ones do the mag ride and if you have airbags adjust ride height. pretty important stuff
I found this part on rockauto which I believe to be the right part, but wanted to have you all double check. Does front left mean driver side?

Also, I have the Z55 option (not magneride Z95).
 

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j91z28d1

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yeah left front is the drivers side. seems they have 2 different ones, one for a cast arm. don't know what you have
 
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bobby2175

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yeah left front is the drivers side. seems they have 2 different ones, one for a cast arm. don't know what you have
The cast arm one is for the read.

I'm a little confused by the comment 3-way with leads and the other referenced part number. Does that mean I'll need to splice some wires to make this work with the additional part they reference? Doesn't seem like it's a ailable on rockauto.
 

j91z28d1

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might go to gm parts direct so see what part number comes up with your vin, and the buy that part number from rock auto?
 
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bobby2175

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Hey everyone!

Hope you've all been well!

The truck is still cruising. I'm going to hit 200K in the next week or so and really haven't had any issues.

I noticed a metal tinging/rattling today and saw this. What am I looking at here? What I've circled is what is moving around and causing the rattling and looks like it must have been connected to something before.

Thanks again in advance.

Screenshot_20250712-204955_Photo Editor.jpg
. .
 

B-train

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That is the factory welded flex pipe. Only way to fix it is to weld it again or replace.
 

B-train

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If you don't mind the exhaust leak, it won't affect anything. Its post catalyst, so it probably won't stink too bad
 

Geotrash

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You’re going to want to weld this. Don't leave it as is.
I concur. I personally knew a man who was killed in his Buick station wagon idling one winter morning, waiting for the school bus with his daughter, in a West Virginia snowstorm. She barely made it out but her papa wasn’t so lucky. He fell asleep and she couldn’t wake him so she got out.

Ever since that experience, I will never allow an exhaust leak in any of our vehicles.
 
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bobby2175

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I concur. I personally knew a man who was killed in his Buick station wagon idling one winter morning, waiting for the school bus with his daughter, in a West Virginia snowstorm. She barely made it out but her papa wasn’t so lucky. He fell asleep and she couldn’t wake him so she got out.

Ever since that experience, I will never allow an exhaust leak in any of our vehicles.
Ok, I'll take it into a shop to get a look at it. Is this something for any muffler shop to handle, ie, like midas, meineke, etc or should I look more carefully? What is this section supposed to look like?
 
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bobby2175

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New issue. Had a P0155 code come up. Looks like O2 sensor. Should I do any further diagnostics on this or just replace all of them? I don't recall ever changing these sensors.

Did some research on here to gather some ideas and tips. Saw @Doubeleive mention O2 sensor socket and/or crows foot. Also saw putting some penetrating oil on them. Any other advice on these as I give them a shot?

Are these right - 2 each?

Screenshot_20250810_210554_Firefox.jpg
 
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alpha_omega

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Penetrating oil and a good ratchet. Having an O2 sensor socket or wrench (I have both - one socket and a flex head O2 wrench are both made by snap-on. The other O2 socket is an Ares, similar to what you can rent at any auto parts store.

Do make your purchase from Rock Auto versus Amazon. Several knock-offs have come from the latter. Not everybody, but there are enough to make you question buying them on Amazon.
 

alpha_omega

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Ok, I'll take it into a shop to get a look at it. Is this something for any muffler shop to handle, ie, like midas, meineke, etc or should I look more carefully? What is this section supposed to look like?
Yeah any muffler shop will do. Doesn’t have to be one of the big name muffler shops. If you have a local reputable Auto repair or exhaust shop, I’m sure they can knock it out for you.
Heck, if you didn’t want to mess with it, they will probably do the O2 sensors for you as well.
Although, that’s an easy job. Just be careful not to burn yourself or tweak the electrical connector. Also keep track of the upstream and downstream sensors. You can mark the box for each one and change them individually to be safe. Should take about 5-20min depending on how liberal you were with the Kroil/penetrating oil.
 

Doubeleive

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New issue. Had a P0155 code come up. Looks like O2 sensor. Should I do any further diagnostics on this or just replace all of them? I don't recall ever changing these sensors.

Did some research on here to gather some ideas and tips. Saw @Doubeleive mention O2 sensor socket and/or crows foot. Also saw putting some penetrating oil on them. Any other advice on these as I give them a shot?

Are these right - 2 each?

View attachment 464810
02 socket should work, the trick I found is using a flexible head ratchet makes the job a lot easier. Also if those sensors are any cheaper from denso just get those, OEM are made by denso, sometimes the OEM is cheaper anyway, when they arrive look at them for the manufacturer stamp, bet money there denso
 

Doubeleive

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02 socket should work, the trick I found is using a flexible head ratchet makes the job a lot easier. Also if those sensors are any cheaper from denso just get those, OEM are made by denso, sometimes the OEM is cheaper anyway, when they arrive look at them for the manufacturer stamp, bet money there denso
No, but when you get it open again, take whatever that thing is in the way out until you get it fixed. At this point it's either troubleshoot with a scan tool or buy a lock actuator, getting that rear panel off is another battle, some clips will break almost guaranteed there is one or two how to videos on YouTube but not Many, you will need a long reach pry tool because some of those clips are way inside the panel
 
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bobby2175

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02 socket should work, the trick I found is using a flexible head ratchet makes the job a lot easier. Also if those sensors are any cheaper from denso just get those, OEM are made by denso, sometimes the OEM is cheaper anyway, when they arrive look at them for the manufacturer stamp, bet money there denso
Wes, I noticed some of your posts about some of the challenges on the AWD drivers side. Any additional thoughts on that one?
 

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