Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[JPS0284]

Working on my cabin air filter now...but when looking up at the evaporator - what's the best way to clean this up? I saw there are sprays. I was thinking about using a brush. What are your thoughts?

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I’m a hvac contractor, they make a no rinse evaporator coil spray. IMO they don’t work that well. The gains won’t be proportional to the amount of mess it’ll make. The also make coil combs but those are for copper aluminum radiators, you’d almost be better off blowing it out with compressed air with a long blowgun attachment or a skinny shop vac brush attachment

 

[Doubeleive]

Well, I'm going to go down this rabbit hole over the next couple of weeks and do some overkill with it because I'm a little curious and interested. My brother used to do a bunch with acoustics, so I'm going to give it a go.

I agree that it's pretty quiet in the Denali. I don't have much in expectations going in, but I'll see what's there already. The one thing I will say though is that when I'm in the Denali and using my bluetooth headset (vs the in truck mic), it picks up enough wind noise that it's ANC distorts my voice so that people on the other side cannot clearly understand me. When I'm in my wife's Acura, I don't have this issue. I'm sure it's nothing and I'll make little progress here, but if sounds like a fun project.

Are there better mics than the stock mic when using bluetooth in the Yukon? Even that one sounds terrible on the other side.

Are phone app dB apps accurate enough to do a before and after?

If yours has the bose ANC (active noise control) then you can disable it and that will give you some increased output, the ANC function criples the system a bit because it is always creating anti-sound. could also be part of why your bluetooth sounds funky.
you will know if you have ANC or not by simply looking up from the drivers seat, in the headliner there will be 2 little speaker looking grills and 1 on the passenger side. non anc will only have 1 grill above the drivers head (environmental sensor)
I just cut the wires on mine because it was the easiest way to do it without messing with the headliner. easily reversible if need be down the road

Disable Bose active noise cancellation nnbs 07-14 yukon escalade denali tahoe suburban

since there is very little to no information on this on the interwebz these are the wires to cut to disable the bose active noise cancellation (anc) on the bose premium if you add a powered subwoofer and get feedback (hum), after I cut these I no longer get any feedback and all 10 speakers are...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[JPS0284]

If yours has the bose ANC (active noise control) then you can disable it and that will give you some increased output, the ANC function criples the system a bit because it is always creating anti-sound. could also be part of why your bluetooth sounds funky.
you will know if you have ANC or not by simply looking up from the drivers seat, in the headliner there will be 2 little speaker looking grills and 1 on the passenger side. non anc will only have 1 grill above the drivers head (environmental sensor)
I just cut the wires on mine because it was the easiest way to do it without messing with the headliner. easily reversible if need be down the road

Disable Bose active noise cancellation nnbs 07-14 yukon escalade denali tahoe suburban

since there is very little to no information on this on the interwebz these are the wires to cut to disable the bose active noise cancellation (anc) on the bose premium if you add a powered subwoofer and get feedback (hum), after I cut these I no longer get any feedback and all 10 speakers are...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

That’s interesting…I always wondered what that second grill was next to the mic and the one on the passenger side. My android head unit has an option to disable it in the settings, I’ve never noticed any difference with it on or off. This single threads literally hit on nearly every thread category in the 2007-2014 section of the forum

 

[bobby2175]

That’s interesting…I always wondered what that second grill was next to the mic and the one on the passenger side. My android head unit has an option to disable it in the settings, I’ve never noticed any difference with it on or off. This single threads literally hit on nearly every thread category in the 2007-2014 section of the forum

If yours has the bose ANC (active noise control) then you can disable it and that will give you some increased output, the ANC function criples the system a bit because it is always creating anti-sound. could also be part of why your bluetooth sounds funky.
you will know if you have ANC or not by simply looking up from the drivers seat, in the headliner there will be 2 little speaker looking grills and 1 on the passenger side. non anc will only have 1 grill above the drivers head (environmental sensor)
I just cut the wires on mine because it was the easiest way to do it without messing with the headliner. easily reversible if need be down the road

Disable Bose active noise cancellation nnbs 07-14 yukon escalade denali tahoe suburban

since there is very little to no information on this on the interwebz these are the wires to cut to disable the bose active noise cancellation (anc) on the bose premium if you add a powered subwoofer and get feedback (hum), after I cut these I no longer get any feedback and all 10 speakers are...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I will take a look at this - I actually have 5 of these grills in the truck - 2 at driver (assuming one is the mic or environment?), 1 at passenger, 1 at 2nd row, 1 at 3rd row.

I'm going to play around with this a little bit - add some sound deadening and see if any improvement, and then likely go into each grill and unplug the ANC one by one until I get it right.

 

[Doubeleive]

I will take a look at this - I actually have 5 of these grills in the truck - 2 at driver (assuming one is the mic or environment?), 1 at passenger, 1 at 2nd row, 1 at 3rd row.

I'm going to play around with this a little bit - add some sound deadening and see if any improvement, and then likely go into each grill and unplug the ANC one by one until I get it right.

there are 2 mic's in the headliner 1 drivers side 1 passenger side, not sure where the 3rd mic is (likley somewhere in the dash), the rest are environmental sensors for the hvac even that one in your 3rd row drivers side? (long story) but I had some hvac issue's before and my ac control was looking for that ghost 3rd enviro sensor because mine doesn't have the 3rd sensor

 

[Doubeleive]

That’s interesting…I always wondered what that second grill was next to the mic and the one on the passenger side. My android head unit has an option to disable it in the settings, I’ve never noticed any difference with it on or off. This single threads literally hit on nearly every thread category in the 2007-2014 section of the forum

I wonder if your android is really disabling it or not, the bose system is digital. even with the maestro rr messing with it is tricky.
does your android head unit have dsp settings? does it support bose fade?

 

[bobby2175]

there are 2 mic's in the headliner 1 drivers side 1 passenger side, not sure where the 3rd mic is (likley somewhere in the dash), the rest are environmental sensors for the hvac even that one in your 3rd row drivers side? (long story) but I had some hvac issue's before and my ac control was looking for that ghost 3rd enviro sensor because mine doesn't have the 3rd sensor

Are all of these mics ANC? Where is the mic that pics up your voice if you are on a bluetooth call?

 

[Doubeleive]

Are all of these mics ANC? Where is the mic that pics up your voice if you are on a bluetooth call?

bt/onstar mic is in the forward center overhead console where the hatch switch/garage door switch and dome lights are, you will see a small 8-slot spot with a hole in it,, the left one is where the bt mic is

 

[Doubeleive]

to clarify on yours (apparently) with 5 grills 2 are anc mic's the other 3 are temp sensors.

 

[bobby2175]

Heres what the Denali acoustic package at the driver's side door looks like.

 

[bobby2175]

Few more shots.

There looks to be some kind of sound deadening material in a small part of the door right below the window - pic below.

 

[avalonandl]

I put additional weather stripping aroung my front doors, made a noticalbe difference

 

[bobby2175]

I'm a fan Infinity, especially their Kappa line. Really, I like most all of Harman's brands. I have no experience installing those speakers so I can't comment on that. What I can say is if you're gonna have the door panels off to do audio upgrades, I'd strongly recommend sound insulation and damping. Doing this, alone (and properly), will make a drastic improvement even with the stock speakers, assuming they're not rotted or blown. You could travel rabbit holes for days researching the well-known brands (Dynamat, Fatmat, Kilmat, Second Skin to name a very few) and there are a few offerings on Amazon (Noico is the popular one there) that seem to be impressive underdogs. Resonix from Skizer was one I was really looking in to.

I'm working on the speakers now but have a question (never done speakers before).

I purchased the Kappas. Front door speaker went in pretty easy with the GM retrofit cable from Crutchfied.

I haven't yet pulled the a-pillar to see how the tweeter is installed, but do I need to put the crossover in that came with the new speakers or can I just connect to factory wiring?

 

[bobby2175]

Here are some pics of the sound deadening I'm doing. I'm doing 2 layers on the outside panel and still figuring out what to do with the inside. It's a little bit more difficult with the wires, cables, cutouts, etc.

I also was very thorough in looking for rattles. One major culprit were bolts that had loosened with time - I retightened everything. The other one was the intrusion beam. Although GM added a rubberized deadener under it, it is completely inadequate. You need to isolate it or it does rattle.

First layer start

First layer finish:

Start of the second layer. You can see how thick this material is:

Almost finished 2nd layer, plugged some small holes and installed an acoustic panel behind the speaker location.

This is an unbelievable amount of work. it's worse when you are a perfectionist. It's easy but requires a lot of cutting, measuring fit up, etc. I did not spare any part of the exterior side of the door unless it was reinforced or wasn't going to be feasible to cover.. I found metal all the way up to where the window sits and covered it. This meant fishing my hands through the cutouts and sticking two layers down. I found that my hands and arms could twist and bend into places I never knew possible.

This does add a lot of weight to the door. I will have to figure out how much when I'm done here. I was also going to do some before and after dB measurements but my dB meter arrived two days later and I couldn't wait for it. I will get some readings after I get this driver's door done and before I start the others.

After spending a day and a half on this, I'm questioning how much benefit I'll see...but this was my rabbit hole I decided to go down.

I'm also not going to be as thorough on the inside sections of the door and see if I need to add more later as it's much easier to do.

After I get through the doors, I also plan on covering some of the high noise areas above the wheels, but this may be after my trip.

More pics to come.

 

[Geotrash]

I'm working on the speakers now but have a question (never done speakers before).

I purchased the Kappas. Front door speaker went in pretty easy with the GM retrofit cable from Crutchfied.

I haven't yet pulled the a-pillar to see how the tweeter is installed, but do I need to put the crossover in that came with the new speakers or can I just connect to factory wiring?

I don’t believe you’ll need the crossovers, but Crutchfield has an excellent helpline. I’ll bet they’ll be able to answer the question for you.

 

[bobby2175]

I don’t believe you’ll need it, but Crutchfield has an excellent helpline. I’ll bet they’ll be able to answer the question for you.

Hi Dave!

This was actually why I was asking. They said I should install it at the tweeter when I called yesterday, but I saw comments within the forum when I was researching it that said you didn't need it.

Crutchfield's view was that if I didn't add it at the tweeter, I'd blow it. They wanted me to tape off the wires for the door speaker because I won't use it and only connect to the tweeter.

 

[Geotrash]

Hi Dave!

This was actually why I was asking. They said I should install it at the tweeter when I called yesterday, but I saw comments within the forum when I was researching it that said you didn't need it.

Crutchfields view was that if I didn't add it at the tweeter, tape off the wires for the door speaker because I won't use it and only connect to the tweeter or I could blow the tweeter.

Wow, that makes no sense to me. The system was designed to use those tweeters in the a-pillar and I anticipate would be driving them separately through a built in crossover, accordingly. I wonder if they were thinking that you upgraded the head unit and amp. In that case yes, you would need the crossovers.

 

[bobby2175]

Wow, that makes no sense to me. The system was designed to use those tweeters in the a-pillar and I anticipate would be driving them separately through a built in crossover, accordingly. I wonder if they were thinking that you upgraded the head unit and amp. In that case yes, you would need the crossovers.

I completely agree with you and I was really confused when talking with them. I even told them I wasn't changing the head unit. I'm going to try calling them again today before I get to it, but I'm inclined to skip it.

 

[Doubeleive]

I completely agree with you and I was really confused when talking with them. I even told them I wasn't changing the head unit. I'm going to try calling them again today before I get to it, but I'm inclined to skip it.

I haven't looked at the gmt900 tweeters but on the gmt800's the "bose" crossover was just a soldered inline filter cap in the speaker wire directly behind the tweeter
and.... a quick look online at a 900 tweeter, confirms this is still the case

 

[iamdub]

I'm working on the speakers now but have a question (never done speakers before).

I purchased the Kappas. Front door speaker went in pretty easy with the GM retrofit cable from Crutchfied.

I haven't yet pulled the a-pillar to see how the tweeter is installed, but do I need to put the crossover in that came with the new speakers or can I just connect to factory wiring?

What speakers? A component set with the separate woofer, crossover and tweeter?

The Bose amp already crosses over frequencies for each speaker. I'd connect the tweeter to the factory wires as-is. A component set is mostly a waste since the frequencies have already been modified for the particular speaker they're going to. So, you can't run the wires feeding the door speaker into the crossover then out to each of their respective tweeters as you would with a "traditional" setup where a full range signal is sent to the doors.

If anything, maybe add a "bass blocker" capacitor, like what Wes just mentioned. They have them that are designed to be connected to the wires going to the speaker/tweeter.