Tweeters in the A pillar.

[demonal]

Whats the amps on your alternator? I haven't finished my audio install yet, but I have a 300amp install, and I don't know how I'm gonna do my design including 3 batteries... Here's a temporary setup of mine.

Good job though, looks VERY clean...

 

[gibsonm21]

@ sf1nsfv,

Give me a day or two, I'll take the pillar off and snap a pic. I don't have a pic of what it looked like before I opened it up more, but I just used a dremmel and opened the opening from about 2 inches to 2 1/2 inches. I also had to shave down some of the "BOSE" tweeter cover, but that was quick too. The entire tweeter install took me about 30-45 min, and that includes running speaker wire.

Depending on how sharp your tweeters are, putting them in the stock locations will help take some of the edge off. I don't like harsh tweeters, so I would have a hard time with the ZR 650 tweeter in the sail panel.

@ demonal

I have the stock 160 amp alt. I did the big 3 and I don't have any dimming going on. I don't have any extra batts in my truck, so I don't play my system with the truck off. hte only thing I might do is get a deep cycle batt to put in the 2nd battery slot, but we'll see.

Is that box fitting behind the 3rd row seats?

 

[demonal]

no way... I'll show a layout of a new design...

 

[sf1nsfv]

thanks bro, i'll be waiting...

 

[gibsonm21]

@sf1nsfv,

Here you go bro, sorry I've been MIA, but I got lazy lol.

This is the back side of the pillar. I actually secured the tweeter using dynamat.

This is the front side w/o the tweeter cover. You can see where I opened up the tweeter hole with a dremmel. The original hole was not was not a circle to begin with, so don't think I jacked it up lol

this is the back of the tweeter cover. I had to trim down some of the plastic on here too, but not that much.

I highly suggest using male and female spade connectors with the tweeters(you may have to anyway depending on how they are) they make for an easy hook up.

Taking off the pillars made me want to put out the socket sizes needed to take the truck apart(because GM tried to pull a fast one using 6 different sizes)

Front seat - (front nuts: 9/16 deep socket//Rear bolts: 7/16 deep socket)

Rear Captains chairs - (rear bolts: 5/8 deep socket// Front bolts: 18mm deep socket)

10mm (fits most of the nuts and screws in GM and Fords)

9/32 (I used it to take off the A pillar on the driver side)

 

[sf1nsfv]

looks great...very nice work.. you just made my life a heck of alot easier!!! <laffing> i'll be doing the same mod in my '07 crewcab....thanks, matt

 

[Fauxnali]

How are you for heat with that amp in the old sub location?
Does it get hot?
I like that its well hidden.

 

[stevek]

Taking off the pillars made me want to put out the socket sizes needed to take the truck apart(because GM tried to pull a fast one using 6 different sizes)

Front seat - (front nuts: 9/16 deep socket//Rear bolts: 7/16 deep socket)

Rear Captains chairs - (rear bolts: 5/8 deep socket// Front bolts: 18mm deep socket)

10mm (fits most of the nuts and screws in GM and Fords)

9/32 (I used it to take off the A pillar on the driver side)

I never understood why they used both Metric and Imperial sockets...

 

[Fauxnali]

Damn Canadians!!! LOL!!!

 

[gibsonm21]

The entire center console is hollow, once you remove the sub, so I don't believe there is a problem with cooling. Aside from that, I've never felt a "Slash" series amp get hot so I don't think its a issue with me. If you have an amp that tends to get hot, there is ample room under the console to put a cooling fan, and room for that air to circulate.

---------- Post added at 07:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 AM ----------

Oh, and those damn sockets turned my tear down day from 1 to 5 or 6 hours. The guys at auto zone thought that I was some retard coming in there every thirty minutes lol. At least I have a fully stocked socket set now(Metric and Imperial) lol.