Truck shutoff while driving, won’t crank

[Tonyrodz]

Even when it’s in its liquid state and hasn’t cured?

Yes, or so I've heard. Don't take my word tho, I'm far from being a mechanic.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Yes, or so I've heard. Don't take my word tho, I'm far from being a mechanic.

I’ll look into it, thank you!

 

[randeez]

When I tore my engine done the intake bolts were loose as shit too, finger tight. When I put it back together there's a sequence but I still went over them probably 5x. now that I'm thinking about it I may hut em again now that it's been a while

 

[swathdiver]

I've been thinking about re-torquing mine too but can we get to them on ours with the fuel rail still on?

 

[randeez]

I never took rails off when I pulled the intake, square port tho. Doubt cathedrals are different

 

[M1Gunner]

You gotta torque the intake manifold bolts on the 5.7 in sequence and in three steps. If you didn’t do it in the three steps then they’re not gonna tighten evenly and you’ll end up with some loose manifold bolts.

 

[bigfootchiro]

I installed new bolts, and they come with some type of thread locker already on them. That’s probably why they tell you not to do it. Got the motor back together, torqued down, timing set, runs super smooth! Still ticking though... not as bad as it was, but there! Getting a rotational squeak/squeal too at times. Ticking changes with RPMs. I get a misfire at idle on 3 and 6 at the exact same time that’s random, and Cylinder 8 misfires shot through the roof twice. How could I relate that to the ticking? Rod bearing on 8? Would a valve/head issue cause the ticking/misfires on 8? I think my plan is to drop the pan and check bearings, replace if needed, then go to flywheel then head, if needed.