Transmission advice

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Lindsey M

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Good morning. I need some advice. I have a 2011 Tahoe LT. I have 230,000 miles on the engine. The engine is running top notch, has had new plugs, wires and coil pack, no oil leaks. Last week, I was on my way to work and it started acting like it was "missing" at driving speeds. Smooth as silk at idle. I was thinking exhaust issues, so I drove straight to a garage. The mechanic drove it and said it was possibly my spark plugs, I advised him they have been replaced and he said it was possible they could have been faulty (insert eyeroll). Placed it on the computer, no codes showed up. Upon looking over my car, he noticed a U-joint out on my driveline and a bad CV axle, said that it could cause that. So, the garage changed it and later called me stating, "bad news". Said I needed a new transmission....what????? Said the torque converter was going out and that the oil smelled burnt. They didn't drain it, or check it, so who knows if there were shavings or not. When I asked if I could just change the torque, I was given the spill that just changing that out, they would have to drop the transmission out anyway (understandable), flush all lines, change oil (which should not be that hard of a task alone) and then it still might not fix the problem. They quoted me a Jasper transmission, I don't even know if my car would get that on KBB. I am not afraid to put a little money into my car, I have taken care of the engine and I believe I could get another 200,000 miles out of it, but my question is, should I put a new transmission in it? Should I just get it to a dealership and trade it in? (I do not want a car payment). Is it that much more work to change out a torque converter and should that be the route I go?

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Geotrash

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Good morning. I need some advice. I have a 2011 Tahoe LT. I have 230,000 miles on the engine. The engine is running top notch, has had new plugs, wires and coil pack, no oil leaks. Last week, I was on my way to work and it started acting like it was "missing" at driving speeds. Smooth as silk at idle. I was thinking exhaust issues, so I drove straight to a garage. The mechanic drove it and said it was possibly my spark plugs, I advised him they have been replaced and he said it was possible they could have been faulty (insert eyeroll). Placed it on the computer, no codes showed up. Upon looking over my car, he noticed a U-joint out on my driveline and a bad CV axle, said that it could cause that. So, the garage changed it and later called me stating, "bad news". Said I needed a new transmission....what????? Said the torque converter was going out and that the oil smelled burnt. They didn't drain it, or check it, so who knows if there were shavings or not. When I asked if I could just change the torque, I was given the spill that just changing that out, they would have to drop the transmission out anyway (understandable), flush all lines, change oil (which should not be that hard of a task alone) and then it still might not fix the problem. They quoted me a Jasper transmission, I don't even know if my car would get that on KBB. I am not afraid to put a little money into my car, I have taken care of the engine and I believe I could get another 200,000 miles out of it, but my question is, should I put a new transmission in it? Should I just get it to a dealership and trade it in? (I do not want a car payment). Is it that much more work to change out a torque converter and should that be the route I go?

Any help would be appreciated.
I hear a few things here worth teasing apart a little bit: 1/ How the transmission was diagnosed. 2/ Probability that the shop is right, and 3/ If they are right, what's the best remedy. So here are my thoughts:

1/ I didn't hear that they followed a complete diagnostic process. To do that would mean dropping the pan at a minimum. But burnt fluid in this case is an important clue.

2/ TC failure that spreads metal through the system and takes out the transmission is probably the leading cause of death for the 6L80. And with 230K on the original TC, you're past due so either way, that transmission should come out.

3/ Jasper remans use a billet TC and they also address several other known shortcomings with their remanufacturing process.

In terms of what do do - if you are happy to drive this truck for a while yet, doing the transmission is absolutely worth it. Without the repairs, you can count on the resale value being diminished at least as much as the $ cost to make the repairs.
 

Joeltz

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Good morning. I need some advice. I have a 2011 Tahoe LT. I have 230,000 miles on the engine. The engine is running top notch, has had new plugs, wires and coil pack, no oil leaks. Last week, I was on my way to work and it started acting like it was "missing" at driving speeds. Smooth as silk at idle. I was thinking exhaust issues, so I drove straight to a garage. The mechanic drove it and said it was possibly my spark plugs, I advised him they have been replaced and he said it was possible they could have been faulty (insert eyeroll). Placed it on the computer, no codes showed up. Upon looking over my car, he noticed a U-joint out on my driveline and a bad CV axle, said that it could cause that. So, the garage changed it and later called me stating, "bad news". Said I needed a new transmission....what????? Said the torque converter was going out and that the oil smelled burnt. They didn't drain it, or check it, so who knows if there were shavings or not. When I asked if I could just change the torque, I was given the spill that just changing that out, they would have to drop the transmission out anyway (understandable), flush all lines, change oil (which should not be that hard of a task alone) and then it still might not fix the problem. They quoted me a Jasper transmission, I don't even know if my car would get that on KBB. I am not afraid to put a little money into my car, I have taken care of the engine and I believe I could get another 200,000 miles out of it, but my question is, should I put a new transmission in it? Should I just get it to a dealership and trade it in? (I do not want a car payment). Is it that much more work to change out a torque converter and should that be the route I go?

Any help would be appreciated.
Ouch I know about Jasper cost, but The rest of my 2015 LTZ is nice…. 3 years and 100,000 miles warranty parts& Labor. NOW it shifts so smooth and No shuddering.
As crazy as money is we got a 0 interest credit card and will pay $300 a month for the next 18 months. The Shop here in Stuart Fla did a Perfect job. And advised me to always come to a full stop when shifting, like when coming home and backing in to driveway. I have confidence in Transmission now… and I think the V-8-V4 DOD AFM was what “ Hurt” the Transmission. Hey just curious what you quoted.? Oh yeah it was a 3 week wait for the Jasper… they did not have a core at first and your core goes back in the container they ship the remanufactured one in.
 

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Foggy

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Not withstanding the actual price of a new trans and TC (I don't know your total cost)
Just put a new trans and TC in it and enjoy!!!!!!!
If you got even 150K out of the original TC (and trans) then you have already
beaten the curve for sure.
More than likely your TC is really acting up.. The shit it spits into the trans has prob
already trashed it too.. So just bite the bullet ONCE and do it right and then enjoy
 

D--k

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Good morning. I need some advice. I have a 2011 Tahoe LT. I have 230,000 miles on the engine. The engine is running top notch, has had new plugs, wires and coil pack, no oil leaks. Last week, I was on my way to work and it started acting like it was "missing" at driving speeds. Smooth as silk at idle. I was thinking exhaust issues, so I drove straight to a garage. The mechanic drove it and said it was possibly my spark plugs, I advised him they have been replaced and he said it was possible they could have been faulty (insert eyeroll). Placed it on the computer, no codes showed up. Upon looking over my car, he noticed a U-joint out on my driveline and a bad CV axle, said that it could cause that. So, the garage changed it and later called me stating, "bad news". Said I needed a new transmission....what????? Said the torque converter was going out and that the oil smelled burnt. They didn't drain it, or check it, so who knows if there were shavings or not. When I asked if I could just change the torque, I was given the spill that just changing that out, they would have to drop the transmission out anyway (understandable), flush all lines, change oil (which should not be that hard of a task alone) and then it still might not fix the problem. They quoted me a Jasper transmission, I don't even know if my car would get that on KBB. I am not afraid to put a little money into my car, I have taken care of the engine and I believe I could get another 200,000 miles out of it, but my question is, should I put a new transmission in it? Should I just get it to a dealership and trade it in? (I do not want a car payment). Is it that much more work to change out a torque converter and should that be the route I go?

Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2011 yukon salt. 180k mile the transmission had been slow to shift but recently a shudder appeared. Checked out tranmission replacement due to value vs cost of same vehicle... replaced transmission by dealer, rear main as it was the trans was out, oil pan gasket as well. 7k.... high but still no payments and I drive it still 30 to 60 miles daily to work.... 36k warranty.
 

Doubeleive

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mine is a 2012, trans shudder at 130k, had the trans rebuilt by the best shop in town for 500hp with billet tc, $4300 out the door with 3yr 100k warranty.
25k and 2yrs later it still works like a champ.
check around..... if the rear main needs to be done it should very little extra cost since the trans will be out anyway
 

OR VietVet

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I still say the pan needs dropped and see what is in there. If is as bad as they say, you should see some proof of what they are saying. Is this shop a specialty transmission shop? I do like Jasper products though, always have.
 

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