Torque Convertor Shudder

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mattbta

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Howdy, all.

2004 L59 RWD with 3.73's and 168k miles, only towed once at 107k. I drive like a grandpa but didn't do proper maintenance on the trans. Last year (<1000 miles ago) had a fluid/filter swap done when the rear main was done.

Experiencing what feels like a shudder on the 1-2 shift at slow speeds as well as at around 2000 RPM in OD (no other gears). Wondering if this is TC shudder? I know that the TC's are prone to go and when they do, they take the trans with it. I would hate to pay labor on just a TC swap and then the trans gives up later as that would make 3x the trans comes out.

  • Should I just send it and get a TC and rebuilt trans done now, before assured mutual destruction?
  • Ideas on brands?
  • Ideas on stall speed? (Eventually, I'll heads/cam it or 6.0 swap with head/cam. Probably not going to use boost. )

I'm in Dallas metroplex so if any installer recs, too, pass along. Appreciate input. Thanks!
 

Sam Harris

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Damn. I’m sorry to hear that. Do you have a Tech 2? I think it should give some idea if there’s an issue with the trans. Although I suppose that wouldn’t necessarily fall under the usual categories of data in the transmission details. Worth a look if you have one. If you are replacing the TC, I’d recommend either Circle D, or FTI. I got the FTI, because that’s what Performabuilt likes, so went with it. On that note, I went with their recommendation on stall as well, so I have a billet triple disc, stalled at 2800. My modifications are fairly minor;
PRC 220cc heads (dual springs, titanium retainers, et al)
Stage 2 truck Cam: 212/218, .600”/.600”, 112 LSA
ARH longtube headers
Airaid intake
BBP tune

Based on these details, 2800 is the stall recommendation I got from Performabuilt
 

rockola1971

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Go have a look at your fluid on the dipstick. Is it nice and pinkish? Smell burnt?

Id be more likely to have a look at 2-4 servo hanging up OR valve in valve body hanging up OR check ball peened its seat in the separator plate.

While 2-4 servo is out I would just change it out with a Corvette 2-4 Servo. Then test.

While valve pan is off tranny I would go ahead replace 2 accumulator spring and piston. (spring is likely to be broken anyway with that mileage).
 
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Experiencing what feels like a shudder on the 1-2 shift at slow speeds as well as at around 2000 RPM in OD (no other gears). Wondering if this is TC shudder? I know that the TC's are prone to go and when they do, they take the trans with it

I'm in Dallas metroplex
Lived in DFW metro for a decade, great place.

preface this with: I've got a 6L80 trans so not apples to apples
-and-
In the end, it's a decision you'll make based on your financial situation and your plans for the truck.

My truck first started the TCC shudder in Nov 2020. Took few months to figure it out. Had suspicions, they were confirmed in June '21 for $93 by mechanic. Been driving in M5 (manual mode 5th gear max) ever since to keep from reaching 6th gear and trying to lock up.
Mine has never exhibited any shudder at the 1-2 shift, but Ive felt it so many times in 6th gear between 40-65mph I can describe it in my sleep.

There are several other things it could be. There's also several diff ways to confirm it's the TC causing the vibration. Pretty much all of them require specialty tools that you may never use again though. The cheapest is probably the oscilloscope($50ish). (Pretty sure I've got an article explaining how to use it for this somewhere? Let me know if you want it) Or you can pay a shop you trust to diagnose it for you.

You can also feel for it yourself on any flat road that transitions to a mild incline (metroplex has dozens). Get the truck up to 55-60mph on flat section and hold your foot with just enough pressure to maintain speed and the trans should lock-up with flywheel via the TC. When you start up the hill the amount of torque needed to maintain that speed will increase. There's a (not so)sweet spot in there where the extra torque required is not enough to cause a downshift but IS enough to cause the TCC to lose it's grip on the TC housing.....and you'll feel --duh-uh duh-uh duh-uh-uh-uh duh duh-- The tachometer needle will bounce along with the slips (mine from 2000 down to 1700 then to 1850 then 18 then back to 2000 for a second then back to 1800 then....you get the picture). Those duh-uh's are happening because the TCC and the TC housing are not the same shape(think two different style dinner plates) and that duh-uh is also rubbing TCC clutch material off(think spray-in bed liner) which then goes through the trans and starts gumming everything up, causing heat, friction, eventual failure.
**To (I hate to say confirm but) confirm that is what's happening: When the duh-uh'ing starts and without moving your right foot at all, gently and barely depress the brake pedal with your left foot. Like an 1/8th of an inch, just enough to make light come on. **If the vibrations stop, it's most likely TCC Shudder** The TCC won't/can't lock-up with the brake switch engaged. I recommend repeating this a few times so you know you're doing it correctly

There's numerous videos on youtube about this subject.....numerous!

From what you described, I would change the TC, and have the TCC lockup tuned out of my truck, and drive it. The trans may go the next day or may last forever? but if it goes it won't hurt the new TC(as long as you don't try and drive around after).


If you want to better understand what's happening, read these:



Sorry for being so long-winded. This subject is what started my education on modern computer controlled vehicle systems. Spent dozens of hours reading/researching. Talked to engineers at Sonax, Circle D, Valvoline, GM, Lube Guard...technician at my local dealership. It taught me what planned obsolescence was, and obviously I took it personal lol
 
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Alex_M

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Go have a look at your fluid on the dipstick. Is it nice and pinkish? Smell burnt?

Id be more likely to have a look at 2-4 servo hanging up OR valve in valve body hanging up OR check ball peened its seat in the separator plate.

While 2-4 servo is out I would just change it out with a Corvette 2-4 Servo. Then test.

While valve pan is off tranny I would go ahead replace 2 accumulator spring and piston. (spring is likely to be broken anyway with that mileage).

This is good advice. The check ball stuck in the separator plate is very likely and your trans may still be savable if you get on this. I personally would put an HD separator plate in, and have all the check balls replaced with synthetic check balls (found in Dodge trannys). They are much easier on the separator plate.

Also recommend blocking off the PWM solenoid while the valve body is off, and block off the accumulator in the case (remove the spring, stack matching size washers around the shaft, place accumulator piston back in. Stack washers so that the piston is flush or slightly below the surface of the case. You can also simply stack two accumulator pistons facing each other so the "legs" lock together.) Both these will significantly increase the lifespan of your torque converter and clutches.

If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, find a reputable tranny shop and ask them to do it. Should cost about the same as having a shift kit put in.
 
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mattbta

mattbta

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Lots of good things to check out. I had planned on putting in a Corvette servo/pin and possibly the OD servo, too. Maybe that's my next move after checking fluid condition.

I have one tube of LubeGard Shudder Fix in it now, could always toss another in. Placebo or not, it seemed better after it until now.
 
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Lots of good things to check out. I had planned on putting in a Corvette servo/pin and possibly the OD servo, too. Maybe that's my next move after checking fluid condition.

I have one tube of LubeGard Shudder Fix in it now, could always toss another in. Placebo or not, it seemed better after it until now.

There is a TSB about this recommending a software update and a fluid flush using a certain Mobil One formula that is supposed to reinforce clutch material. I've also read a couple threads where Amsoil was used with positive short term results but haven't gone back to see about long term... Be worth calling Amsoil and Mobile One and speaking with a tech... On one of my flush's dude at AutoZone put 4 jugs of Valvoline in truck bed(thanks to Corona) and 2 were Merc III. I didn't notice until after flush and drive for 50-60mi. Spoke to Valvoline engineer for 40min about fluid compatibility and TCC shudder- very helpful, didn't seem annoyed w/my 101 level questions, etc...
 
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Fless

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There is a TSB about this recommending a software update and a fluid flush using a certain Mobil One formula that is supposed to reinforce clutch material. I've also read a couple threads where Amsoil was used with positive short term results but haven't gone back to see about long term

Does said TSB apply to the OP's NBS tranny?
 

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