2019 Tahoe Torque Converter Replacement

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TahoeEd

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This is far to long, but if you are looking for a odd story, I'd like to know what you think. I know there have been a lot of conversations about the torque converters for various years, but I wanted to share my resent experience and see what the thoughts are here.

Prior experience with Chevy transmissions: The company I work for purchased 2 each 2017 Silverados and one of them was my vehicle to drive daily. From brand new I would feel a shutter when traveling around 35 mph to 45 mph at a consistent speed, but didn't think anything of it. 2 years later, the company purchased a 2019 Silverado for another employee to drive. Both of the 2017s had transmission failures before 100,000 miles and the 2019 has had the engine replaced as well as the transmission, in that order. In the 2017, that I specifically drove for 4 years before failure, the shutter ended up getting so bad the entire vehicle would shake and within 2 weeks the transmission went while driving down the interstate. No gears, only neutral.

Current personal vehicle background: I purchased this 2019 Tahoe Premier in November of 2022 with around 26,000 miles on it. With my prior experience I was cautious and tried to be very aware of what I felt while driving this vehicle. We drove it without changing anything until around June or so when I bought the Range AFM disabler. Prior to using the disabler I could feel the slight shutter (occasionally and only slightly) when in V4 at around 1100 RPMs driving consistently. If I accelerated it would change to V8 and shift out of the shutter. After using the Range AFM the vehicle has run great without the shutter at all.

Current situation: The vehicle now has 45,000 miles and the warranty for this vehicle is up within the next few months, so I bring it to the dealer to have a yearly inspection done and have them check the shutter situation so that if something needs to be done it is done under warranty.

First call from dealership: Yes we feel the shutter and the next step is to drop the pan to see if there are any metal shavings on the magnet and expect the torque converter needs to be replaced. They expected to see metal so they didn't want to drop the pan unless we could leave it there which we couldn't do as it's our only family vehicle. They then inform us to pick it up and bring it back once they have a loaner for us to use.
Second phone call back, same day: They tell me that the shuttering could be caused by the tires which are a little worn (but passed inspection fine) and it was in auto 4wd so that could have caused some of the vibration. I informed them that is not the problem and agree with their first assessment that the torque converter is most likely the issue. The person I'm speaking with agrees, but states he has to inform me of all the technician wrote down.

2 weeks later we call them about the loaner and their response was they were waiting on use to determine if we wanted to replace the tires, which we already told them we didn't. We then schedule to drop our vehicle off in a couple of days. The day after it is dropped off we get a phone call from the dealership saying their transmission guy drove it and says nothing is wrong. The vibration is from the engine and not from the transmission and only happens when it is going between V4 and V8 which is normal. An already too long of a story somewhat shorter, I tell them my experience with this shutter and after a long back and forth they agree to at least drop the pan and see if there is any debris.
The next day I get a picture of the pan and underside of the transmission with a message of everything looks normal, no metal, we are currently deciding what to do. A little while later I get a message they are going to replace the torque converter.

This all just seems odd to me, what did I miss here? if everything looked good, then why would they replace the TC? If the TC has to be replaced, should I then be concerned with the transmission or any other part associated with the transmission? Do dealerships typically replace it with the same original faulty TC or is there and updated TC now? This is something I plan to ask when we pick it up. I have posted the pictures they sent so you more knowledgeable individuals can chime in and educate me.
 

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MobileHomie

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45K miles should not be overextended for a trans service.
Trust your gut on this one friend.
From the crappy pics they sent, it does look like metal on the magnet and the fluid is more brown that red, indicting it its burnt. I bet is smells burnt too.
I don't know if there is an upgraded replacement torque converter or not, but most likely will be replaced whit the same part.
I don' know the years and models well enough to know what transmission is in your Tahoe, is it a 8 or 10 speed?
 
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TahoeEd

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I believe it is the 6 speed, but I’d have to check again.
 
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TahoeEd

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No, I don’t believe I need any specific information about the vehicle. I was more looking for opinions on what I should take from the conversation with the dealership. Yesterday they claim no problem at all and refuse to drop the pan. After persisting they agree to drop the pan but say everything is as it should be. Then they are replacing the torque converter. Seems like I might not be getting the whole story and want to know if I should be concerned with more potential problems. Do the pictures indicate anything other than normal wear for a vehicle with 45,000 miles?
 

Marky Dissod

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Good. They are replacing the torque converter.
While they're at it, they ought to replace the ATF, which was not only overdue in my book
(I subscribe to Severe Service Intervals)
but wasn't there a TSB about the 8L90Es 'Chevy shaking',
and that the ATF should be flushed & replaced?
 

ComputernerdBD

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Just going to add a recommendation I just made in another post especially on the bypass valve, cooler and pan to keep your trans cool. My torque converter blew on Christmas Eve on my 2018 at 65k miles, shed a ton of glitter into the fluid and ended up turning into a reman transmission after having AAA tow it nearly 300 miles home. Luckily I felt the hesitation/slip/flare shifting and saw the temp rise and pulled it off the road. I have the Range AFM disabler adapter too and was checking to see if that had anything to do with it but discovered that was not likely.


The issue though unfortunately here is since you are already at the dealer (which can't blame as you are still in warranty) you are stuck with their runaround and also OEM parts with all of their flaws. Most good aftermarket transmissions come with a billet converter cover which addresses the design flaws of OEM with it distorting around where the three fittings are welded to the plate. I would insist if nothing else while at the dealer and if they are already into it they do replace the converter anyway with all of the fluid AND install the updated thermal bypass valve that opens at 158F to keep the temps down per their own TSBs recommending that happen with any transmission work and then once you get the truck back consider at least a transmission cooler now, aluminum pan when you do fluid again next time (this is probably excessive but I do my fluid every year but I also get away with that process easier as I don't need to do the filter as often given the pan drain plug). You might not need the Surecool kit if you get the updated thermal bypass but mine runs in the high 120s F on the highway, 130-135 in town.

With Auto 4WD I would suggest keep it out of there. Consider just shifting to 4 High if you are getting into snow or ice conditions but obviously not on dry pavement. Given your mileage and the nature of what they already need to do I would suggest have them do the transfer case fluid (If not already when dropping the trans). Your differentials too while they have it IF the price to do so is not more than comparable independent shops.

This is just from personal experience - I actually stopped using dealers years ago especially with the runaround, money grab tactics and poor/overpriced repairs on all three of my GM trucks, one of which could have turned into a fire with one of those repairs being oil cooler lines not installed properly. Before your warranty expires I would advise find a really good independent shop near you and develop a good relationship. That will go a long way to keeping your truck on the road and the costs and frustration of doing so much more tolerable.

Good luck and hope everything works out for you either way you proceed.
 
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TahoeEd

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I agree and will now be changing out the transmission fluid more regularly.

At one point during our conversation, before they agreed to drop the pan, they said there is a TSB for a flush and replace, but my vehicle doesn't meet the criteria because the "transmission guy of 40 years" says it's the engine shuttering and not the transmission. I would assume (I know, never assume) they would do that now that the TC is going to be replaced. I will ask if it has been done when we pick it up.
 

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