Tips on replacing calipers & flushing brake fluid.

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lowpost99

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I'm replacing my front calipers only and stainless steel brake hoses for all 4. Any tips on doing this job? Should I flush the brake fluid 1st or after installing the new calipers and lines? I"m thinking that I should flush before exposing the new calipers and hoses to the old fluid.
 

IZZY_BRITTON

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IMO, you could flush your rears first.

Then replace your passenger side front brake line and flush the right front line until clean, attach caliper.

Move to left front, replace line, flush line until clean, attach caliper.

Bleed right front caliper until no air.

Bled left front caliper until no air

Center proportioning valve.

Motor on.

This is all made simple(r) by using a force thru brake bleeder pump. You could use a vacuum bleeder if you can find a way to attach vacuum bleeder to open end of new brake line air tight.

Are you going to upgrade your front calipers and rotors to the gmt900 set up? ( 2007-2014 or 2006 police package brakes)? I hear it is a worthy upgrade. I have all the parts but have not installed them yet. The price difference between 2003 calipers rotors and pads vs 2010 same parts was like 4$.
 

IZZY_BRITTON

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Sorry I just re-read your post. Disregard my ramblings about 2007+ upgrades, the other stuff is still relevant.
 
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lowpost99

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I'm replacing my front calipers only and stainless steel brake hoses for all 4. Any tips on doing this job? Should I flush the brake fluid 1st or after installing the new calipers and lines? I"m thinking that I should flush before exposing the new calipers and hoses to the old fluid.
 
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lowpost99

lowpost99

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IMO, you could flush your rears first.

Then replace your passenger side front brake line and flush the right front line until clean, attach caliper.

Move to left front, replace line, flush line until clean, attach caliper.

Bleed right front caliper until no air.

Bled left front caliper until no air

Center proportioning valve.

Motor on.

This is all made simple(r) by using a force thru brake bleeder pump. You could use a vacuum bleeder if you can find a way to attach vacuum bleeder to open end of new brake line air tight.

Are you going to upgrade your front calipers and rotors to the gmt900 set up? ( 2007-2014 or 2006 police package brakes)? I hear it is a worthy upgrade. I have all the parts but have not installed them yet. The price difference between 2003 calipers rotors and pads vs 2010 same parts was like 4$.
Yes I am doing the 2007+ upgrade. I got the Power Stop powder coated red calipers and Bosch pads. Police rotors coming from RockAuto hopefully tomorrow. I need direction/info on centering the proportioning valve. I've never heard of this. I'll check into the brake bleeder pump I've never used one. Always the two man method, press pedal, hold, open, close at the caliper.
 

Chris2144

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Yes I would flush before and bleed it good after. This job will go much quicker if you have a mighty vac to evacuate the fluid. Rear takes a whole reservoir to flush front takes about 75 percent. Suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir first add new fluid then begin flushing. Would be a good idea at this time to take a look at all the hard lines for rust. Also check your master cylinder for leakby. Start the engine then shut off. Push on the brake pedal and hold for a few minutes really like 1 or 2 if the brake pedal drops any you should consider replacing the master cylinder while you are servicing the brake system.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Yes I am doing the 2007+ upgrade. I got the Power Stop powder coated red calipers and Bosch pads. Police rotors coming from RockAuto hopefully tomorrow. I need direction/info on centering the proportioning valve. I've never heard of this. I'll check into the brake bleeder pump I've never used one. Always the two man method, press pedal, hold, open, close at the caliper.

Just make sure you put a 2x4 on the floor under the pedal. If you overdo it pumping them, you'll wreck the seals in the master.
 

TheAutumnWind

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I'm replacing my front calipers only and stainless steel brake hoses for all 4. Any tips on doing this job? Should I flush the brake fluid 1st or after installing the new calipers and lines? I"m thinking that I should flush before exposing the new calipers and hoses to the old fluid.
Tips? Replace calipers and rotors with GMT900 calipers and rotors. OEM big brake upgrade.
 

IZZY_BRITTON

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Power pressure bleeder is super cake to use. it is basically a pump up weed sprayer with an attachment to a universal brake fluid reservoir cap. you put fluid in the weed sprayer, attach to master cylinder, pump up the weed sprayer, and crack the bleeders and watch the fluid flow. just dont over pressurize the sprayer thing or you will have a mess. dont fill your reservoir beyond 3/4 or you will have a mess. get one of these or make one on your own and you will never ask your buddy or significant other to help with bleeding your brakes again.

center the proportioning valve with a good diagnostic scan tool like a snap-on solic or a GM Tech2. its a simple process that only requires you to start the process on the scan tool and press and release the brake pedal one or 2 times. really this can solve a lot of common 'old school' brake issues.
 
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lowpost99

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Power pressure bleeder is super cake to use. it is basically a pump up weed sprayer with an attachment to a universal brake fluid reservoir cap. you put fluid in the weed sprayer, attach to master cylinder, pump up the weed sprayer, and crack the bleeders and watch the fluid flow. just dont over pressurize the sprayer thing or you will have a mess. dont fill your reservoir beyond 3/4 or you will have a mess. get one of these or make one on your own and you will never ask your buddy or significant other to help with bleeding your brakes again.

center the proportioning valve with a good diagnostic scan tool like a snap-on solic or a GM Tech2. its a simple process that only requires you to start the process on the scan tool and press and release the brake pedal one or 2 times. really this can solve a lot of common 'old school' brake issues.
Sounds like a great idea and the videos seem like its easy to build one. So all the new fluid just goes into the pump sprayer and then gets pushed into the system. Can you drive the truck safely after bleeding all the lines, without centering the proportioning valve? I've never done that after bleeding the brakes... can I get around for a while without doing that?
 

OR VietVet

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Just make sure you put a 2x4 on the floor under the pedal. If you overdo it pumping them, you'll wreck the seals in the master.

You beat me to it. ^^^^^^ IMO, flushing first is ok but not an absolute. Just open the bleeders one at a time with the master cylinder open and keep it topped off with fresh fluid and watch the fluid drip at the bleeder till clean. You can do this before or after the parts replacement. Flushing brake fluid is not like a P/S flush or a coolant flush or a trans flush where there is a rush of fluid thru these systems during the process. A vacuum device is desired for the brake fluid. May have been said above but will you use silicone fluid? If so, it is best to get as much of the old completely out of the system. Yes, crawl under there and check all metal lines. Salt on winter roads creates havoc with those.
 

Rocket Man

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If you don’t want to mess with making a pressure bleeder, the Motive one works awesome. It’s a bit expensive but if you have more than one vehicle or work on brakes much it’s well worth it. I got tired of messing with the vacuum ones. This one refills the master automatically and you can bleed the whole system super easy.Motive Products 0108 Brake System Power Bleeder For Most Late Model GM Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MAtHDb2H1P9E9
 

iamdub

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I use this method. Cost me about $5 in clear hose from Home Depot and a water bottle I dug out of my recycle bin. Cheap and effective and I can completely flush 'em by myself faster and easier than with trying to communicate with another person.

ays-To-Bleed-Brake-Lines-By-Yourself-Gravity-Bleed.jpg
 

IZZY_BRITTON

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If you don’t want to mess with making a pressure bleeder, the Motive one works awesome. It’s a bit expensive but if you have more than one vehicle or work on brakes much it’s well worth it. I got tired of messing with the vacuum ones. This one refills the master automatically and you can bleed the whole system super easy.Motive Products 0108 Brake System Power Bleeder For Most Late Model GM Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MAtHDb2H1P9E9

Agreed! This is the same one I have and what I was referring to above but couldn't remember the name.

These things work well, and as mentioned by rocketman and asked by OP.

But in my experience if you pressurized these beyond about 5-10 psi they have a potential to make a mess.

@Rocket Man : have you had issues with the motive making a mess when using with too much pressure? Or is it just me?
 

Rocket Man

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Agreed! This is the same one I have and what I was referring to above but couldn't remember the name.

These things work well, and as mentioned by rocketman and asked by OP.

But in my experience if you pressurized these beyond about 5-10 psi they have a potential to make a mess.

@Rocket Man : have you had issues with the motive making a mess when using with too much pressure? Or is it just me?
No, I just followed the directions. I don’t remember the pressure I used. I’ve done 4 complete fluid changes on 3 different vehicles. Never a drop spilled. I love how I can add 2 quarts of fluid to the tank of the Motive, pump it up and attach it, then just go open up each bleeder and watch it flow.
 

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