Tips for Changing the spark plugs

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BrainDead

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whatever engineer decided to keep the engine as close to the firewall as possible, should have to change the passenger side plugs and wires on a 6.2 motor in under 30 minutes in order to keep there degree.

What a PITA those 2 rear plugs were, I had to access the furthest one back from underneath because the A/C lines, dipstick, heater lines, electrical wires and heat shielding prevented me from getting anywhere near it from the top. When I was finally able to get my socket on it, the exhaust only allowed me to turn the wrench about 1/16th of a turn, in order to get the plug completely out and started again I had to lie underneath the truck parallels to it and wedge my arm between the motor and hot catalytic converter in order to get my fingers on it.

Just a heads up, take off your gloves, rubber or fabric they just get in the way and get caught on all the square corners when snaking your arm up.

Tip number 2 is lay under the transmission parallel to the vehicle with your head towards the front and you can snake your hand up between the exhaust and transmission behind the sway bar and get your fingertips on the furthest plug

Tip number 3 is to use a wobble or if u have one a 1 1/2" extension on the 3rd plug back. The plug socket is too far under the head to get the ratchet on and a 3" Ext is too long because there's a heat shield on the way.

My dad taught me to start with the hardest one first and get that SOB out of the way.

Hope this helps for anyone in there future maintanence
 

OR VietVet

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After over 35+ years in the auto repair industry, 10 as a tech and 25+ as a service manager, I have seen even worse. Have you ever heard of a Chevy Monza with a V8 engine? The only way to change plus on it was to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up for access. If you remember, the sockets that are specifically for spark plugs have a 6 point on the end so you can use a wrench to get in there and break the plug loose after you put the socket on it. Done that many times. I also have an assortment of used straight spark plug wire boots that after I broke the plug loose I could slip the boot on the end of the plug and that rubber boot was flexible and I could spin the plug out with my fingers on the boot.

By the way, engineer's don't work on them so they damn well design them any way they please. Get used to it.
 

wjburken

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Many posts here about this.

When I swapped out plugs on the 6.2L in my 2013 a few weeks ago, it took Just over an hour once I had all the plugs gapped and anti seize on the threads. #8 is the most fleifficult to get to, but as Ron stated, if you put the plug socket on the plug then put a socket in the 6pt portion of the plug socket, you can get the plug out. I personally use a 3/8” drive plug socket with a 3/8”M to 1/4”F adapter then a 1/4”M to 3/8”F then a 3/8” drive socket. This gets the ratchet handle out past the heatshield and not into the a/c and am able to get to it from above.

As far as the engineers, they are paid to design mainly for assembly at the plant as the priority and maintenance second.
 

Ilikemtb999

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Easy peasy in this chassis. Engine is so small in the bay. 4th gen f body is probably the worst ls based vehicle to change plugs on. Really to do most anything on.
 

drakon543

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pff trying doing a Nissan xterra plugs. i think it was an 02?? the plugs are straight down through the intake and the intake is huge. the back plug is almost impossible to touch to find it and is impossible to see. id rather do the plugs on a 3.4 in one of the old lumina euro sports. those engines were a tight fit. my 3rd gen Camaro was annoying until i realized it was easy to do the back 2 from underneath. anyway ya the xterra doesn't have holes or slots to reach them you just have to go down through the runner's past the hoses and harnesses.
 

donjetman

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the wifes 2012 MKX transverse mounted 3.7L is a PIA. Intake manifold etc has to come off to change the back 3 plugs.
 

JonnyTahoe

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After over 35+ years in the auto repair industry, 10 as a tech and 25+ as a service manager, I have seen even worse. Have you ever heard of a Chevy Monza with a V8 engine? The only way to change plus on it was to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up for access. If you remember, the sockets that are specifically for spark plugs have a 6 point on the end so you can use a wrench to get in there and break the plug loose after you put the socket on it. Done that many times. I also have an assortment of used straight spark plug wire boots that after I broke the plug loose I could slip the boot on the end of the plug and that rubber boot was flexible and I could spin the plug out with my fingers on the boot.

By the way, engineer's don't work on them so they damn well design them any way they please. Get used to it.
My old neighbor had a V-8 Monza 2+2 hatchback he purchased brand new. The Chevrolet Monza was produced from 1975-1980 and was designed by John DeLorean. The optional engine was a 5.7 V-8 only producing 125 HP.
 

carterchapman

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I sold my previous truck with 198,000 miles. Original plugs & wires. Still ran great when I sold it.
Im with you Blur - I changed the passenger side on my ‘05 Denali at 110,000. Just can’t get to any on the driver’s side. Now 196,000 and running just fine.
 

Rocket Man

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They’re not that hard at all, just need the right tools as mentioned earlier. I can change mine in an hour and that involves pulling the inner fender liners because of headers. Before headers I could do them in 1/2 hour. And it doesn’t matter if it’s a 4.8 through the 6.2 it’s the same.
 

carterchapman

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They’re not that hard at all, just need the right tools as mentioned earlier. I can change mine in an hour and that involves pulling the inner fender liners because of headers. Before headers I could do them in 1/2 hour. And it doesn’t matter if it’s a 4.8 through the 6.2 it’s the same.
Thanks for the info. I’ve got the 3 piece Matco magnetic plug wrenches, so I just need to give it another try.
 

Rocket Man

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Thanks for the info. I’ve got the 3 piece Matco magnetic plug wrenches, so I just need to give it another try.
The trick with using a standard depth regular socket on the normal plug socket works great for #8, the rear passenger side one. It gets the ratchet out just far enough. I use a 1” extension on my plug socket, it does the same thing. The 1” extensions are hard to find though, SK makes one. But like mentioned, the regular 5/8” plug socket can accept a socket instead of an extension or ratchet because it has a 6-point head. That makes it the perfect length for #8.
 

OR VietVet

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Listen to these guys that have done it before. They have figured out the way around the problem. Standard spark plug removal and replacement does not apply on some of these plugs.
 

2591tdj

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Listen to these guys that have done it before. They have figured out the way around the problem. Standard spark plug removal and replacement does not apply on some of these plugs.
It was a royal pain changing the plugs, especially number 8, on my ‘05 Tahoe. There was nothing easy about it!
 

OR VietVet

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Sorry, but it seems a bit much to complain about the access for 1 plug. I get it. I know it is difficult but it is what it is. It is something else that helps the Tahoes and Yukons and Suburbans stand out above all others. Have dealt with WAY worse over the years of vehicle work and running shops. All it does is make you think harder and develop better curse words. C'mon man!
 

2591tdj

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Sorry, but it seems a bit much to complain about the access for 1 plug. I get it. I know it is difficult but it is what it is. It is something else that helps the Tahoes and Yukons and Suburbans stand out above all others. Have dealt with WAY worse over the years of vehicle work and running shops. All it does is make you think harder and develop better curse words. C'mon man!
It’s bad when a guy can’t add a simple, non-offensive comment without being scolded!
 

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