thinking of buying an 09 yukon xl

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B-train

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Where do you live? How far are you willing to travel?

If the travel question doesn't bother you, look out west or down south. Pay an inspection company to look at what you want to buy, unless you can get good info from seller that you trust. Buy a one way ticket and have them pick you up at the airport. Drive home in rust free truck.

Done it multiple times......
 

intheburbs

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What do you guys think of this one? It’s about 3 hours from me but has decently low mileage?

Pics look pretty good. I don't see any of the common high-wear "tells" on the interior...
Seats look good
Climate control buttons not worn off
Caps for both power outlets present
Arm rests lookngood

That rusty idler pulley, however, is a potential deal-breaker. Only way to know for sure is put it up on a rack. I wouldn't be optimistic that it's the only rusty bit on the truck.

Speaking more generically, when I was shopping for my Denali, they seemed to be an excessively - high number of smoker's cars. Also a deal breaker for me.

I've bought 5 used vehicles long distance, all with purchase prices above $20k. I still own all of them (two of the Jeeps, the Suburban and Denali in my sig, and a '15 2500HD Silverado) Two were bought from small used car dealers, three from new car dealerships (Chrysler, VW and Chevrolet).

All five were taken to a local independent mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. One guy insisted on doing it for free, so I gave him $50 for dinner. Others charged $100-$200. The guy who inspected my Suburban wrote in the comments section, "nice truck." It's certainly money well spent. Cheap insurance.

The Denali had leaking pinion seal on the front diff. I had them fix as a condition of purchase.
 

tungsten

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Pics look pretty good. I don't see any of the common high-wear "tells" on the interior...
Seats look good
Climate control buttons not worn off
Caps for both power outlets present
Arm rests lookngood

That rusty idler pulley, however, is a potential deal-breaker. Only way to know for sure is put it up on a rack. I wouldn't be optimistic that it's the only rusty bit on the truck.

Speaking more generically, when I was shopping for my Denali, they seemed to be an excessively - high number of smoker's cars. Also a deal breaker for me.

I've bought 5 used vehicles long distance, all with purchase prices above $20k. I still own all of them (two of the Jeeps, the Suburban and Denali in my sig, and a '15 2500HD Silverado) Two were bought from small used car dealers, three from new car dealerships (Chrysler, VW and Chevrolet).

All five were taken to a local independent mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. One guy insisted on doing it for free, so I gave him $50 for dinner. Others charged $100-$200. The guy who inspected my Suburban wrote in the comments section, "nice truck." It's certainly money well spent. Cheap insurance.

The Denali had leaking pinion seal on the front diff. I had them fix as a condition of purchase.
That idler pulley would cost the dealer what $20? So if they cheeped out on something that obvious what else have they turned their head too.

The bolts on the hydro boost are also rusted.Again pennies to change out.
 
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Chughart

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I honestly wouldn’t even think about that idler pulley being rusty as long as it didn’t make noise but what’s the rest of the car look like? I looked at one and the entire power steering pump reservoir was completely rusty and the rest of the underside of the vehicle was covered in “surface” rust but the upper control arm adjustments were completely rusty. So I guess if something like the idler is rusty the rest of it is likely too I’d have to contact the seller and get more pictures of underneath of it’s a good enough candidate but should I look at newer ones? 12-14?
 

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It all depends on what YOU want, and want to spend. If your search area includes a lot of salt states, then go newer and have it rust proofed and hope for the best.

If you want problem free motors, then 2007-09 non AFM. But, you'll probably have to travel to a non salt area to get a good one based on age.

The 2010 and newer have a little more giddy-up, but you have the potential for lifter issues. Not that the non AFM ones can't have issues, it's just less common.

If you want your buns heated AND cooled, then 2009 and newer on the Denali. These creature comforts can be had on 2007 and newer Escalade models if that suits your fancy.

Personally I like my Denalis, but the next one I may go after is a 2007-09 Escalde. They look sharp, have the same power train, and seem to have some better quality interior components.
 
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Chughart

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The good thing about it is I’m mechanical inclined (I’m a master Honda technician) so if I had to replace anything I can and I’ve seen some of the 12-13s I’ve been looking at have the integrated brake controller and all the other creature comforts and some had 2 rear screens (I have 4 small children so trips would be great) and the age so I was leaning towards 12-14

Also I live on the western side of virginia so we see some snow and salt but not a whole lot so most of the vehicles I see sold here are pretty rust free but I’m not against traveling into North Carolina or South Carolina just depends on the price and quality of car that’s why you guys are a god send cause I can ask you y’all’s opinions on things!
 
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Chughart

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I did find one in manassas va for right at 20k had 146k on it but had a new 6.2 engine in it with a 3yr/50k warranty on it and according to th carfax had the transmission replaced at 135k I’ll post the link here shortly see what you guys think
 

swathdiver

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What do you guys think of this one? It’s about 3 hours from me but has decently low mileage?
I'd say she's been painted. Would definitely want to see underneath. Buying a thirteen year old luxury vehicle with all of its complexities often requires some fixing on your part that dealerships are not willing to do. The next buyer who comes along will probably not even notice until after the little warranty expires.

We just bought a 2013 pickup for $31K with low miles but even then, at ten years old have spent $2K so far on repairs and maintenance and another $1500 on accessories like window tint, bed accessories, alarm, etc. Then my daughter backed it into a tree and that'll be a $4K bill to fix it, they're bleeding me dry! At least the Sirius XM was only $2.25 until March of next year!
 

swathdiver

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At that age and mileage it's about suspension overhaul time as well. But if the previous owner abused the engine and transmission, how might the differentials and transfer case look? How has Virginia's salt roads affected the undercarriage all these years?

I would want to know whose engine went in there and whose transmission or was it overhauled? Might want to set aside $3-5K for surprises.
 

intheburbs

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I did find one in manassas va for right at 20k had 146k on it but had a new 6.2 engine in it with a 3yr/50k warranty on it and according to th carfax had the transmission replaced at 135k I’ll post the link here shortly see what you guys think


Well, I have to question the "new GM engine" thing. Maybe they bought a short block and the warranty is different, but when I bought a GM long block last year (from a dealership) it had a 3 yr/100k warranty.

I'd ask to see the receipt/paperwork and the warranty registration and serial number of the engine.
 

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Well, I have to question the "new GM engine" thing. Maybe they bought a short block and the warranty is different, but when I bought a GM long block last year (from a dealership) it had a 3 yr/100k warranty.

I'd ask to see the receipt/paperwork and the warranty registration and serial number of the engine.
the crate motor has 3yr 100k, so maybe they have driven it 50k already? or they made a mistake
 

Geotrash

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How has Virginia's salt roads affected the undercarriage all these years?
We don't get a lot of salty road days in Virginia. Northern Virginia gets more than we do in Richmond, but still not bad. What seems to cause problems is the number of rainy, humid, misty days but keeping it in the garage solves that issue. Still, cars in Virginia don't suffer the way they do in PA, OH, MI, MA, etc.
 
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Chughart

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Hey guys after searching for a few months I finally found a Yukon xl to buy. It’s a 12 Yukon xl Denali awd with 96k on it and the dealer that has it is putting a new engine in it. They said it doesn’t meet their engine standards and had lifter issues so they’re replacing it. It’s a one owner car and in good shape. It’s 3 hours from me so I haven’t actually seen it in person but I have pictures and video of it that I’ll post in a min
 
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Chughart

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Here’s some pictures
 

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Chughart

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well I tried to put the video in but I can’t figure out how to
 

Geotrash

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Hey guys after searching for a few months I finally found a Yukon xl to buy. It’s a 12 Yukon xl Denali awd with 96k on it and the dealer that has it is putting a new engine in it. They said it doesn’t meet their engine standards and had lifter issues so they’re replacing it. It’s a one owner car and in good shape. It’s 3 hours from me so I haven’t actually seen it in person but I have pictures and video of it that I’ll post in a min
96K is early for lifter issues on that engine so that's a red flag to me that other key maintenance may have been skipped. I would also want to know what they mean by 'new engine'. Are they talking factory new, reman, or used from a salvage yard.
 
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Chughart

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Ok I’ll have to mess around for the video then. And as for the engine I asked the salesman I’ve been talking to and he said the engine did not meet their standards and they were replacing it with a new engine. I assumed it was for a lifter issue but I don’t know exactly what the reason was. And the carfax had regular maintenance done. And they were going to do a factory gm crate motor but it’s ok national backorder so they are putting in a jasper engine so I’m assuming (again) it’s a remain’d engine but has a 3yr/100k warranty
 

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