OP
OP
That had to make a hell of a noise.
There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches
- Thread starter OR VietVet
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OP
OP
Worked on a 2014 Ford E350 Super Duty XLT Flex Fuel today. In for an oil change, squeaky serp belt, wind noise at the driver's door and radio work but no display.
I did some research and found numerous posts about solder joints need solder on back of display but that is not for me and I told them.
I did the oil change and the drain plug had been overtightened and came out slow and found stretched threads and had a slight oil leak at the drain plug. I had already bought a new drain plug and it went in with no problems. Old and new drain plug pics.
The belt squeak noise was a dried out belt and slight noise at the idler. I replaced the belt, tensioner and the idler. No more noise.
The wind noise is caused by the upper hinge mount area, of the body, being cracked and pulling away and door sag. Someone at one time or another had loosened the attaching bolts at the other side of the hinge, where it attaches at the door. I tightened up the bolts and now you have to slam the door to close. When you push door by hand, up to the latch/striker, it has a springy effect that springs it back. He is aware the door will have to come off, new metal at hinge backing on the body side, reassemble and align.
I did some research and found numerous posts about solder joints need solder on back of display but that is not for me and I told them.
I did the oil change and the drain plug had been overtightened and came out slow and found stretched threads and had a slight oil leak at the drain plug. I had already bought a new drain plug and it went in with no problems. Old and new drain plug pics.
The belt squeak noise was a dried out belt and slight noise at the idler. I replaced the belt, tensioner and the idler. No more noise.
The wind noise is caused by the upper hinge mount area, of the body, being cracked and pulling away and door sag. Someone at one time or another had loosened the attaching bolts at the other side of the hinge, where it attaches at the door. I tightened up the bolts and now you have to slam the door to close. When you push door by hand, up to the latch/striker, it has a springy effect that springs it back. He is aware the door will have to come off, new metal at hinge backing on the body side, reassemble and align.
OP
OP
Well, started the new position at my shop owner friend's place. Showed me how to build estimates on their system, transfer the parts and labor and fluids and fees and printed out and he got to call 2 customers that had been waiting for a week for the estimates. He was able to knock out some serious work while I did the admin stuff. Going in at noon tomorrow and likely be there till 6 and then see when I come in next but he said that likely within 2 weeks, 80% of my time will be at home.
OP
OP
Second day at the shop. He is throwing me in to the deep end. All good. He has given me estimates that are large and need to get sold. I am looking up all labors using All Data and monitoring the overlapping labor. If I am unsure, I just use All Data and look up all the repair procedures and where it may or may not overlap and adjust accordingly. Then looking up all parts and fluids needed. Load all the parts, fluids and labor and hazmat fees and any miscellaneous fees and then print the estimate for him to read and adjust as he likes. He has actually adopted a phrase that I like to use. I always told him that words are free and help pay for the work and justify the charges.
Looks like my hours when I am at the shop is gonna be noon till caught up and then time at home at a later date.
Looks like my hours when I am at the shop is gonna be noon till caught up and then time at home at a later date.
I hate it when shops quote "everything" and give you a quote that could break the bank, saying that it all needs to be done. Now. I hope you're prioritizing the repairs for the potential customers so they can get some things done, yet not have to do it all in one shot. That can scare them away.
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I used to do bids..... I learned to write them ( and speak)..... To show the client, what is required to properly complete the work, in simple language...... and to 'teach them' what the cost is for. They would be more confident.... to shell their bucks into my account.
Unless they are cheap skates and want something for nothing.... Those people are shown the door.
I understand that certain jobs require a certain amount of work; not arguing that. What I'm saying is to address critical issues first, and give the customer the option to delay repairs that aren't as necessary, or won't likely cause other problems. Then they come back in the future for the not-so-critical repairs.
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The suspension truck shop I go to, while they work under it, ..I say to them, "While you are there, ...if you see something that needs attention,... do it.
Not everyone can spend money that way; some folks' finances can run a bit thin. It's all about educating the customers and letting them decide.
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Totally agree...... When I had my upper/lower ball joints & A arms replaced, they saw my- tie rods needed replacing. They only charged me for the parts, since they were in there... Anything big, they would call me first.
OP
OP
We address their concerns first and foremost. We do a thorough diagnosis/inspection and lay out the steps of what was done to find the problem. Then "I" give them options about "fixing the concern" and what needs to be done now and what can wait. I have always, 40+ years, done that. If we see something during the inspection/diagnosis, we let them know and what priority it is. I ask if they want an estimate for that or do I just note it on the invoice for future reference. My friend has a loyal following. He has 2 vehicles at the shop now that other shops brought to him because they could not diagnose the problem.
We do lots of pics of parts and diagnostic procedures.
We do lots of pics of parts and diagnostic procedures.
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OP
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One thing to bare in mind is that a small concern now cannot always be counted on to wait till "it is convenient" to be repaired. The time frame is not an absolute. I have seen and heard dealers says, "If it was my vehicle, I would not drive it another foot". Scare tactics will not come from me. I always, at a given concern point, want the vehicle owner to come see for themselves. I encourage a second opinion, if they want.
As it should be.
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I was driving to work one Friday; '78 Camaro with a 350.
The water pump had just started seeping, but I knew what that meant. I had a new one in the trunk, for a swap out the next day. There was no bearing noise [that I could hear].
I didn't make it to work, and had to add a new, custom-built radiator to the repair.
The bad pump didn't wait for me, and destroyed my radiator when it self-destructed.
I made it to work Monday, though.
joe
OP
OP
I am going to get me one of those Power Probe PPDRAW tools. Quite the time saver when it comes to just verifying there is a current/right now, draw.
You attach the tool at the data link connector. Turn it on. Then, after you have rolled down the window and locked the vehicle, like you would when leaving parked for the night, disconnect the negative cable at battery or even the positive too-AFTER YOU PRESS THE SMART OUTPUT BUTTON, close the hood, and then watch the ma draw scale on screen and look for modules to go to sleep and the ma draw should drop. May take around 30 minutes for that to happen. The internal battery, in the tool, has taken place of your vehicle battery and now you watch. There are a couple videos at you tube that explains all the options, better than I can.
You attach the tool at the data link connector. Turn it on. Then, after you have rolled down the window and locked the vehicle, like you would when leaving parked for the night, disconnect the negative cable at battery or even the positive too-AFTER YOU PRESS THE SMART OUTPUT BUTTON, close the hood, and then watch the ma draw scale on screen and look for modules to go to sleep and the ma draw should drop. May take around 30 minutes for that to happen. The internal battery, in the tool, has taken place of your vehicle battery and now you watch. There are a couple videos at you tube that explains all the options, better than I can.
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OP
OP
The PPDRAW tool is on it's way. This weekend, in Junction City, Oregon, there is an event called the Function in Junction-Google it, and the shop that I have been at since Tuesday is about 1 mile south of the main drag where the cars will flow. Turns out that the building our shop is in, is also a storage place for some of the restored and custom vehicles. They stage out of there, about 8 of them, and then come back after a few circuits with the city out to see them and also people from the surrounding area. I started yesterday at 10 a.m. and got out of the shop and headed home at 10 p.m. Long day but got a lot accomplished in the shop. I have the software programs down about 90% to 95%. Not sure yet but my normal hours may be noon to about 5 or 6. But will not be 5 days a week and never on a weekend, unless there is an emergency. Will soon be working at home as well.
OP
OP
Working on a 2019 CRV tomorrow morning for some needed maintenance.....oil change, oil filter, drain plug and gasket, cabin air filter, pcv valve-which is not just a easy in and out swap and look for a possible bad battery or a draw problem. I recently bought a Power Probe Draw Monitor and look forward to using it for the first time. It is new to me but used one at my friend's shop about a month ago. A very slick tool. I hope to post some pics here from the work. It has been a while since I posted some pics of work I do.
While I am on the subject, I am getting more and more worried about the career of "automotive technician". I have offered to show/teach a few males/females when I do some of this work and have found no takers. No one wants to spend the time and get dirty. Mike Rowe is beyond worried about all this and so am I. The automotive institute, at the local community college, has low attendance as well.
While I am on the subject, I am getting more and more worried about the career of "automotive technician". I have offered to show/teach a few males/females when I do some of this work and have found no takers. No one wants to spend the time and get dirty. Mike Rowe is beyond worried about all this and so am I. The automotive institute, at the local community college, has low attendance as well.
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I wish I could attend.
