The Falcon died...

[Millennium Falcon]

Wife went to pass a doofus driving a semi who pulled out in front of her. She was half-way around him after engaging the Hyperdrive pedal when she heard a strange sound from the engine compartment. Dash lights came on, and the steering got heavy, so she decided to pull over. Fortunately, she was close enough to light speed that she was able to finish getting around the doofus and get off the road as the engine had died. I went down to check things out, and the engine wouldn't even crank over. Figured that was that. Had it towed to my mechanic, and he tried to crank it by hand, but it was a no-go. He figures it was the timing chain tensioner that let go and locked things up. At 220k, he suggested just doing a new engine rather than trying to patch this one.

Anyway, I'm looking into engines today, and I'm finding lots of different names and lots of similar part numbers. I'm guessing there are just a handful of remanufacturers that rebuild engines. My mechanic suggested going through O'Reilly Auto Parts for a replacement. He's used them for a while now and thinks they're decent. They have a 4-year warranty. Who would you guys recommend sourcing an engine from? I need to get the Falcon back on the road ASAP since it's my wife's daily driver. Thanks.

 

[gooffeyguy]

So the engine is seized up and can't even be turned by hand at the crank using a ratchet?

 

[Rocket Man]

So your mechanic didn’t even diagnose the trouble except to try to turn it over by the crank bolt? You do realize 220k is nothing for these engines? If it’s just the timing chain that stopped it, things might not be that bad.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

So the engine is seized up and can't even be turned by hand at the crank using a ratchet?

Correct.

So your mechanic didn’t even diagnose the trouble except to try to turn it over by the crank bolt? You do realize 220k is nothing for these engines? If it’s just the timing chain that stopped it, things might not be that bad.

No, he hasn't gotten into the engine, yet. He's been my mechanic for nearly 20 years, and he has done right by me the whole time; I trust that he isn't trying to take advantage of the situation.

Yes, I know these engines are good for high miles, given proper maintenance. This engine, however, isn't normal. The dealer from whom I bought the vehicle "rebuilt" the engine before I bought it from them. In actuality, they did more of a patch job than anything. Then, a couple years ago, the left head crapped a valve seat and left a smiley face on the piston for me, and I had to install a new head. While making the repair, I saw that an adjacent cylinder had a smiley face, as well, so I knew there had been problems with the engine. Just recently, the vehicle began to occasionally puff a little blue smoke at start up, so I may have some valve stem seals possibly leaking on the other head, too. Given all this and the current break down, it's probably best to just replace the engine since it's my wife's daily driver.

ETA: My mechanic is thinking that either the timing chain tensioner broke allowing the timing chain to skip and throw the top and bottom out of time, or a cam bearing spun. Just speculation at the moment until he gets into the engine.

 

[Rocket Man]

That makes sense. Unfortunately I have no recommendation on who to buy an engine from. Hoping for the best for you.

 

[ivin74]

Correct.

No, he hasn't gotten into the engine, yet. He's been my mechanic for nearly 20 years, and he has done right by me the whole time; I trust that he isn't trying to take advantage of the situation.

Yes, I know these engines are good for high miles, given proper maintenance. This engine, however, isn't normal. The dealer from whom I bought the vehicle "rebuilt" the engine before I bought it from them. In actuality, they did more of a patch job than anything. Then, a couple years ago, the left head crapped a valve seat and left a smiley face on the piston for me, and I had to install a new head. While making the repair, I saw that an adjacent cylinder had a smiley face, as well, so I knew there had been problems with the engine. Just recently, the vehicle began to occasionally puff a little blue smoke at start up, so I may have some valve stem seals possibly leaking on the other head, too. Given all this and the current break down, it's probably best to just replace the engine since it's my wife's daily driver.

ETA: My mechanic is thinking that either the timing chain tensioner broke allowing the timing chain to skip and throw the top and bottom out of time, or a cam bearing spun. Just speculation at the moment until he gets into the engine.

Makes sense,. Autoparts stores sell rebuilt engines, stick to an oem engine from GM.

 

[swathdiver]

Well, you know you want an L9H, they put them in the pickups too from 2009 through 2013.

Most mechanics want to replace engines rather than rebuild them, saves time and money; their money, not yours. Having said that, after all that yours has been through, and if time is an issue, I would replace it as well.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

That makes sense. Unfortunately I have no recommendation on who to buy an engine from. Hoping for the best for you.

Thanks

Makes sense,. Autoparts stores sell rebuilt engines, stick to an oem engine from GM.

My mechanic and I discussed this more last night, and I decided to go with a GM engine for the national warranty. That way, if we have a problem on the road somewhere, we can just find a GM dealer.

Well, you know you want an L9H, they put them in the pickups too from 2009 through 2013.

Most mechanics want to replace engines rather than rebuild them, saves time and money; their money, not yours. Having said that, after all that yours has been through, and if time is an issue, I would replace it as well.

Yes, the L9H is why we bought a Yukon XL this old. No DOD and 400HP. At the time, this was about the only thing around, and we got it for a decent enough price to be able to justify engine/tranny replacement and not get burned. (Not too much, anyway.) I'm glad this didn't happen when we took our kids to Medieval Times in L.A. earlier this year. It would have really sucked to have the Falcon towed back home from there.

So, now I'm in search of a GM engine, probably from one of the online places that hopefully would be cheaper than my local dealers. Some place that won't bend me over a barrel and Lucille me on price and freight. Any suggestions in that regard?

Thanks for the replies.

 

[swathdiver]

So, now I'm in search of a GM engine, probably from one of the online places that hopefully would be cheaper than my local dealers. Some place that won't bend me over a barrel and Lucille me on price and freight. Any suggestions in that regard?

Thanks for the replies.

My brain is wired to build my own. I did see new bare blocks at Jegs and plenty of used engines on ebay from wrecked trucks.

I did see this ad: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19432424.html

Swap out the car camshaft for a truck cam and call it good.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

My brain is wired to build my own. I did see new bare blocks at Jegs and plenty of used engines on ebay from wrecked trucks.

I did see this ad: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19432424.html

Swap out the car camshaft for a truck cam and call it good.

I prefer to do my own work, as well, but, as a shade tree mechanic without the shade tree, I have limits to what I can do. I'd love nothing more than to rebuild this engine and put my own touch to it, but I need to get the wife's car back on the road ASAP. I'd also prefer to have a warranty, for what they're worth.

Thanks for the link. I'll check them out and see what's available.

 

[Geotrash]

My brain is wired to build my own. I did see new bare blocks at Jegs and plenty of used engines on ebay from wrecked trucks.

I did see this ad: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19432424.html

Swap out the car camshaft for a truck cam and call it good.

Based on the timing cover, I'm guessing it has a 3-bolt cam as well, as I don't see VVT.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

Well, I actually found a L9H GM rebuilt engine (Part #19432623). Called a couple different dealers, and one found an engine back east. There are only nine (9) of these engines in the entire country (according to the parts guy), and all of them are customer orders waiting for pickup or install. The second dealer I called happened to find an order that had just been canceled, so he put my name on it, and I drove down that day and paid for it so I didn't lose it.

I was beginning to get a little worried about finding one, but it worked out. Now, I need to start sourcing the parts I need for the install.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

I'm going to get into the old engine to find out what happened to cause it to seize. I also want to see if the chinese Delco knockoff spark plugs caused any damage in the combustion chambers as they melted down. I still can't believe it was running as well as it was considering all the plugs had ~1/2" gap. I wanted to keep the old engine for a build, but GM has $2,500 core charge that kills that idea.

I'm thinking of doing a 4-corner steam kit (or whatever it's called) to help eliminate any of the hot spots I've read about. With the heat we have here (we just got out of a long heat wave where the temps were over 107 for weeks with the highs hitting at or near 114 for several days) and the climb into the hills every afternoon, I thought the steam kit might be a good idea. The vehicle has 220k miles on it, and I would like to do some other things while the engine is out. Do you guys have any other suggestions for things I can do for durability and performance that won't void the GM 3yr/100k mi warranty?

 

[Geotrash]

I'm going to get into the old engine to find out what happened to cause it to seize. I also want to see if the chinese Delco knockoff spark plugs caused any damage in the combustion chambers as they melted down. I still can't believe it was running as well as it was considering all the plugs had ~1/2" gap. I wanted to keep the old engine for a build, but GM has $2,500 core charge that kills that idea.

I'm thinking of doing a 4-corner steam kit (or whatever it's called) to help eliminate any of the hot spots I've read about. With the heat we have here (we just got out of a long heat wave where the temps were over 107 for weeks with the highs hitting at or near 114 for several days) and the climb into the hills every afternoon, I thought the steam kit might be a good idea. The vehicle has 220k miles on it, and I would like to do some other things while the engine is out. Do you guys have any other suggestions for things I can do for durability and performance that won't void the GM 3yr/100k mi warranty?

Coolant tees at the firewall for sure, along with the heater hoses. New engine mounts, both the transmission and oil cooler lines, power steering pressure hose, and you might consider replacing the radiator, hoses and electric fans to have a whole new cooling system at the same time.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

Coolant tees at the firewall for sure, along with the heater hoses. New engine mounts, both the transmission and oil cooler lines, power steering pressure hose, and you might consider replacing the radiator, hoses and electric fans to have a whole new cooling system at the same time.

I've replaced the coolant tees, radiator, and electric fan assembly within the last 2-3 years. Do you think they're okay, or should I go ahead and replace them again with the new engine? I have the transmission and engine oil cooler lines that I haven't installed yet, so I'm good there. I figured all the hoses should be replaced. Should I use the hydraulic mounts for the Yukon or the Hummer H3 all rubber mounts?

Thanks for all the suggestions, Geotrash.

 

[swathdiver]

Sonnax torque converter?

 

[S33k3r]

IMO, hydraulic. Also, now would be a good time to do the "Big 3", in addition to chasing down any grounds and cleaning/replacing them. Other things you might do, not related to the engine bay, include silicone lubricant on the windows. This will make them raise/lower more smoothly, and use less power. Replacing the intermediate shaft bearing (don't quote me on that!) that makes for a smoother steering experience. Examine all the belts and belt tensioners -- replace any suspect ones. If you haven't recently replaced the radiator, flushing the radiator might be a good idea. Fuel lines, evap lines, etc. Check and replace the spare. Clean all lights if they are all foggy. Check your suspension components for play, replace as necessary. Now would be a good time for a big brake upgrade, and/or a hydro boost conversion...

That's all I can think of at the moment. I mean, if you really want to go crazy, you can replace all the blend doors.

 

[Doubeleive]

hummer mount for the drivers side for sure, the fluid filled ones are a nuisance and will break, leak fluid out. just a matter of time.

 

[donjetman]

Assuming you have the 6L80 trans?
I installed a Precision of New Hampton tc, # P4646, 4 yrs and 50k miles ago when I had my tranny etc out to do a rear main seal job. $218 locally and no regrets. I've done 2 used trans fluid analysis since then and everything was good.
https://gopnh.com/
He's the link: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3#post-1293118

 

[Millennium Falcon]

Sonnax torque converter?

Can you tell me about it? I don't have any plans to tow with the Yukon since I already have a Sierra with the Duramax engine for towing. The Yukon has 220k miles, and I have no idea if the transmission has been worked on or replaced. I do know downshifting with T/H mode 3-2 hits pretty hard most of the time. With 40k miles on it since we bought it, the fluid is still red and smells like fairly fresh dexron. Is the torque converter something to do now, or would it be better to wait until I replace the trans? Thanks, swathdiver.

IMO, hydraulic. Also, now would be a good time to do the "Big 3", in addition to chasing down any grounds and cleaning/replacing them. Other things you might do, not related to the engine bay, include silicone lubricant on the windows. This will make them raise/lower more smoothly, and use less power. Replacing the intermediate shaft bearing (don't quote me on that!) that makes for a smoother steering experience. Examine all the belts and belt tensioners -- replace any suspect ones. If you haven't recently replaced the radiator, flushing the radiator might be a good idea. Fuel lines, evap lines, etc. Check and replace the spare. Clean all lights if they are all foggy. Check your suspension components for play, replace as necessary. Now would be a good time for a big brake upgrade, and/or a hydro boost conversion...

That's all I can think of at the moment. I mean, if you really want to go crazy, you can replace all the blend doors.

I was leaning to the H3 motor mount since I've read about a lot of failures of the hydraulic units. What's your experience been with the hydraulic mounts? What are the "Big 3"? Thanks for all the other suggestions; I'll be addressing those I haven't already done in the future as I want to focus on the engine and its peripheral parts right now. Thanks, S33k3r.

hummer mount for the drivers side for sure, the fluid filled ones are a nuisance and will break, leak fluid out. just a matter of time.

So it's just the driver's side mount that is being replaced with the H3 mount? I've wondered about the swap because I've read about increased engine vibration due to the solid rubber of the H3 mount. Is the increase in vibration significant? Thanks, Doubeleive.

Assuming you have the 6L80 trans?
I installed a Precision of New Hampton tc, # P4646, 4 yrs and 50k miles ago when I had my tranny etc out to do a rear main seal job. $218 locally and no regrets. I've done 2 used trans fluid analysis since then and everything was good.
https://gopnh.com/
He's the link: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3#post-1293118

Yes, 6L80. As I asked swathdiver above, is this something to do now, or should I wait until I replace the transmission? The transmission is a big question mark since I know nothing about it other than the T/H mode 3-2 downshift hits pretty hard most of the time, and the fluid looks pretty good with the 40k miles we've put on it. Thanks, donjetman.