Rust repair

[Charlie207]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

Getting the metal serviceable, then adding some fender flairs might be the play.

 

[strutaeng]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

Yikes! Does that quote involve any cutting/grinding/welding? On the frame, or just body panels?

I've done some hobby welding, but never on body panels. But I'm learning general body and refinishing. Check out Lakeside Automotive on YT. He's got a lot of videos on fixing rust. I think his in the North somewhere. He's old school and makes everything pretty simple. Maybe not showroom quality work, but I would say good enough for a daily driver.

 

[Charlie207]

Yikes! Does that quote involve any cutting/grinding/welding? On the frame, or just body panels?

I've done some hobby welding, but never on body panels. But I'm learning general body and refinishing. Check out Lakeside Automotive on YT. He's got a lot of videos on fixing rust. I think his in the North somewhere. He's old school and makes everything pretty simple. Maybe not showroom quality work, but I would say good enough for a daily driver.

Yeah, this is just body panel.. the frame is still good, and gets undercoated every fall.

The passenger side has been repaired twice since I've owned it, and the last time was $1000.

 

[alvocado]

I have some similar wheel arch rust developing and would also like to find a way to stop it cost effectively. I took the truck to one reputable shop who refused to work on it. They said they have too many customers with rust returning and to do it right, it requires too much labor which drives up the cost to levels that don't make sense for older trucks.

I don't have any experience with body work but would also love some advice on ways to get it "good enough."

 

[ReaperHWK]

I have similar on mine. To do it right the shops won’t repair any rust they replace the entire panel. No big name shop will grind and cut out rust because it will come back and they won’t warranty it. That is why the costs are high. I think the 2-4k is a good deal; recently I paid 2k just to get my hood repainted. Labor ain’t cheap anymore.

 

[Charlie207]

I have similar on mine. To do it right the shops won’t repair any rust they replace the entire panel. No big name shop will grind and cut out rust because it will come back and they won’t warranty it. That is why the costs are high. I think the 2-4k is a good deal; recently I paid 2k just to get my hood repainted. Labor ain’t cheap anymore.

I understand the labor thing.

If I'm going to do it I'll be looking for material recommendations. POR-15 vs. *** vs. ***, etc.

 

[ReaperHWK]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

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Getting the metal serviceable, then adding some fender flairs might be the play.

I understand the labor thing.

If I'm going to do it I'll be looking for material recommendations. POR-15 vs. *** vs. ***, etc.

I have a 2015 so the body is a little different. I did a quick search and new panels are only $100 for a 2014?I’d just get one and have some backyard painter spray it if you want cheap and good enough.

 

[Charlie207]

I have a 2015 so the body is a little different. I did a quick search and new panels are only $100 for a 2014?I’d just get one and have some backyard painter spray it if you want cheap and good enough.

View attachment 457608

I would consider that if I had a way to cut and weld the new panels in. That's something I consider above my skillset for a daily-driver.

I was thinking something like this kit: https://por15.com/collections/rust-prevention/products/3-step-stop-rust-system

...or: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html

 

[GMCChevy]

If you don't cut out and replace the metal it'll come back.

 

[strutaeng]

@Charlie207 that YT channel I mentioned has a video on how to glue-on panels. I had personally never heard of that, but then again, I'm not an expert on body work. But googling around, that seems like a thing. May want to look to see if that's an option for you. You still have to do body filler.

Also, for maximum corrosion protection, I believe the standard system is a 2k epoxy, then a 2k primer (or sealer or primer-surfacer, depending on application), base coat, 2k clearcoat. This is on bright, prepared steel. You want to remove, cut or grind off any corrosion, of course.

The POR15 and similar are fine for frames, suspensions and undercarriage though.

 

[Charlie207]

@Charlie207 that YT channel I mentioned has a video on how to glue-on panels. I had personally never heard of that, but then again, I'm not an expert on body work. But googling around, that seems like a thing. May want to look to see if that's an option for you. You still have to do body filler.

Also, for maximum corrosion protection, I believe the standard system is a 2k epoxy, then a 2k primer (or sealer or primer-surfacer, depending on application), base coat, 2k clearcoat. This is on bright, prepared steel. You want to remove, cut or grind off any corrosion, of course.

The POR15 and similar are fine for frames, suspensions and undercarriage though.

I'm looking for an all-in-one kit. Assume I've never done this before.

Is there something like this for exterior rust: https://www.eastwood.com/por15-stop-rust-kit-grey-40929.html?gQT=1

 

[Charlie207]

I just saw this, and it sparked some memories from being on ships back in the day... It's what the Chief said to use after they scraped the chunks of rust off the ship.

Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

Ospho rust treatment has been killing rust in the Marine, Industrial and Automove fields since 1947

www.ospho.com

 

[GMCChevy]

I'm looking for an all-in-one kit. Assume I've never done this before.

Is there something like this for exterior rust: https://www.eastwood.com/por15-stop-rust-kit-grey-40929.html?gQT=1

No, the problem is its rusting from behind.
If you're going to do it yourself get one of these to get the rust and paint. Get rust converter of some sort to try to get inside the holes that will be there then do the usual filler, primer paint etc and hopefully it lasts a little while before coming back.

 

[strutaeng]

I just saw this, and it sparked some memories from being on ships back in the day... It's what the Chief said to use after they scraped the chunks of rust off the ship.

Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

Ospho rust treatment has been killing rust in the Marine, Industrial and Automove fields since 1947

www.ospho.com

Umm. I looked at the technical data sheets and it only lists it for subframes, axles, control arms, etc. Basically undercarriage.

Further, on the instructions it says for topcoating if exposed to UV, use their POR 2k urethane. IDK if that product is available in GM body colors, probably not? Is your truck a metallic color?

Oops, meant to reply to your previous post...

 

[Charlie207]

Umm. I looked at the technical data sheets and it only lists it for subframes, axles, control arms, etc. Basically undercarriage.

Further, on the instructions it says for topcoating if exposed to UV, use their POR 2k urethane. IDK if that product is available in GM body colors, probably not? Is your truck a metallic color?

Oops, meant to reply to your previous post...

RPO code: 41U Onyx Black

I suppose I could use that on the inside of the fenders/wheel wells.

How sketchy is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276173352930

 

[strutaeng]

RPO code: 41U Onyx Black

I suppose I could use that on the inside of the fenders/wheel wells.

How sketchy is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276173352930

That 2k clearcoat aerosol is actually legit. Check out YT channel Paint Society. He painted an entire fender or door on a Civic or something small with aerosol Duplicolor from the local parts store, and that 2k clearcoat aerosol.

So, yes, aerosols are definitely an option for doing a single body panel. I just don't think it will be ideal or economical to do something larger like a hood on these trucks. Hoods are pretty large. Even with a full blown spray gun, it's difficult to keep a wet edge when spraying.

 

[strutaeng]

Here's I guess another video than the one I was thinking about, but same idea.

 

[Charlie207]

Here's I guess another video than the one I was thinking about, but some idea.

I appreciate it. I'll need all the help I can get.

And then probably still hide it all with fender flairs.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

This is what I use on my '97 GT. I have my entire frame, and underbody coated. It works awesome on rust.

 

[LSCALADE]

Just did this to mine this weekend, there were tiny specs of rust, when I started sanding down the pore opened up and what looked like a tiny dot had a quarter sized circle of rust underneath.

Finished it off with primer and rustoleum paint.