Rust repair

[Charlie207]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

Getting the metal serviceable, then adding some fender flairs might be the play.

 

[strutaeng]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

Yikes! Does that quote involve any cutting/grinding/welding? On the frame, or just body panels?

I've done some hobby welding, but never on body panels. But I'm learning general body and refinishing. Check out Lakeside Automotive on YT. He's got a lot of videos on fixing rust. I think his in the North somewhere. He's old school and makes everything pretty simple. Maybe not showroom quality work, but I would say good enough for a daily driver.

 

[Charlie207]

Yikes! Does that quote involve any cutting/grinding/welding? On the frame, or just body panels?

I've done some hobby welding, but never on body panels. But I'm learning general body and refinishing. Check out Lakeside Automotive on YT. He's got a lot of videos on fixing rust. I think his in the North somewhere. He's old school and makes everything pretty simple. Maybe not showroom quality work, but I would say good enough for a daily driver.

Yeah, this is just body panel.. the frame is still good, and gets undercoated every fall.

The passenger side has been repaired twice since I've owned it, and the last time was $1000.

 

[alvocado]

I have some similar wheel arch rust developing and would also like to find a way to stop it cost effectively. I took the truck to one reputable shop who refused to work on it. They said they have too many customers with rust returning and to do it right, it requires too much labor which drives up the cost to levels that don't make sense for older trucks.

I don't have any experience with body work but would also love some advice on ways to get it "good enough."

 

[ReaperHWK]

I have similar on mine. To do it right the shops won’t repair any rust they replace the entire panel. No big name shop will grind and cut out rust because it will come back and they won’t warranty it. That is why the costs are high. I think the 2-4k is a good deal; recently I paid 2k just to get my hood repainted. Labor ain’t cheap anymore.

 

[Charlie207]

I have similar on mine. To do it right the shops won’t repair any rust they replace the entire panel. No big name shop will grind and cut out rust because it will come back and they won’t warranty it. That is why the costs are high. I think the 2-4k is a good deal; recently I paid 2k just to get my hood repainted. Labor ain’t cheap anymore.

I understand the labor thing.

If I'm going to do it I'll be looking for material recommendations. POR-15 vs. *** vs. ***, etc.

 

[ReaperHWK]

I'm starting to get quotes for some rear wheel-arch paint bubbles and rust repair, and the the first quotes are from $2000-4500! I'm not sure I'm going to spend that on car that's probably worth ~$10k... if that.

I'll probably try doing it myself, but would like you folks to chime in with any/all tips & tricks, or some videos that helped you out. The priority is stopping the rust, and not glamorous paint perfection.

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Getting the metal serviceable, then adding some fender flairs might be the play.

I understand the labor thing.

If I'm going to do it I'll be looking for material recommendations. POR-15 vs. *** vs. ***, etc.

I have a 2015 so the body is a little different. I did a quick search and new panels are only $100 for a 2014?I’d just get one and have some backyard painter spray it if you want cheap and good enough.

 

[Charlie207]

I have a 2015 so the body is a little different. I did a quick search and new panels are only $100 for a 2014?I’d just get one and have some backyard painter spray it if you want cheap and good enough.

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I would consider that if I had a way to cut and weld the new panels in. That's something I consider above my skillset for a daily-driver.

I was thinking something like this kit: https://por15.com/collections/rust-prevention/products/3-step-stop-rust-system

...or: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html

 

[GMCChevy]

If you don't cut out and replace the metal it'll come back.

 

[strutaeng]

@Charlie207 that YT channel I mentioned has a video on how to glue-on panels. I had personally never heard of that, but then again, I'm not an expert on body work. But googling around, that seems like a thing. May want to look to see if that's an option for you. You still have to do body filler.

Also, for maximum corrosion protection, I believe the standard system is a 2k epoxy, then a 2k primer (or sealer or primer-surfacer, depending on application), base coat, 2k clearcoat. This is on bright, prepared steel. You want to remove, cut or grind off any corrosion, of course.

The POR15 and similar are fine for frames, suspensions and undercarriage though.