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I was gonna say look at your receipts or orders but I would bet your receipt box is pretty extensive.
Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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I’m flushing it forward, reverse and sideways.
I pulled the rear panel and I was expecting the evaporator to be right there.
But of course it’s contained in the case AKA auxiliary HVAC module. Removal of that requires disconnecting the heater hoses as well as the AC lines from under the vehicle. I’m sure the quick connects on the heater hoses will break. And I tried putting the vice grips and yanking and pulling on that ac line. I was shaking the whole truck and it’s up on jack stands on that side. I quit before I did something stupid. I’ll wait until the morning. Then probably do something stupid.@RAMurphy did you flush your rear system, and if so did it flush from the front or did you disconnect the lines at the rear? This is a problem right now. That line that I’m
yanking on is $300 and discontinued. I’m not even in a rust belt, I can imagine what these look like on a vehicle from those areas.
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I’m thinking about deleting the rear AC. I never use it. Anybody know how? Seems I could just use the same rubber pieces they use to seal up the new parts with, just block the tubes at the engine compartment.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm sure they have them for yours (maybe even the same part), but there's a block-off that installs on the drier at the firewall, where the lines that go to the rear attach. Lemme see if I can find it...
*EDIT* Here ya go, Amazon boy: https://www.amazon.com/BK7055-Rear-Block-Off-Kit/dp/B06X9F3GXS
Research it, but the compressor might need to be changed to one that's for a non-rear A/C truck. There might be a volume difference or something. Maybe not, but it's worth investigating.
Eric O posted the delete a few days ago:
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Well that was quick. After reading a few threads on those rear lines, it seems they don’t come off, they get seized to the studs and even unobtainium can’t separate them. The choices are to cut the lines, buy new lines and the evaporator or block it off and use front ac only. I ordered a block off kit. It will be here tomorrow. The rear has never worked anyway. Of course now I’ll start thinking about buying the new line…but what a huge amount of work that would be running that hard line all the way up to the front. I could really reef on that fitting now though, since I’ll have the block off kit in case I break it… 
Edit: I was posting at the same time as you guys. There’s only one compressor that’s set up for my truck, I’m pretty sure it’s just the amount of refrigerant you add.
Edit: I was posting at the same time as you guys. There’s only one compressor that’s set up for my truck, I’m pretty sure it’s just the amount of refrigerant you add.
@Rocket Man My initial plan was to remove the heat exchanger but I found exactly what you found. I was able to flush it from underneath similar to what you are trying. I did not have the issue you are experiencing. Have you tried just air, what pressure are you using? Reverse flow at a higher pressure?I’m flushing it forward, reverse and sideways.
I pulled the rear panel and I was expecting the evaporator to be right there.
@RAMurphy did you flush your rear system, and if so did it flush from the front or did you disconnect the lines at the rear? This is a problem right now. That line that I’m
yanking on is $300 and discontinued. I’m not even in a rust belt, I can imagine what these look like on a vehicle from those areas.
Pulled up my notes and I actually had the same issue as you and flushed using the lines. Which would explain why it took me so much longer to flush the rear.Well that was quick. After reading a few threads on those rear lines, it seems they don’t come off, they get seized to the studs and even unobtainium can’t separate them. The choices are to cut the lines, buy new lines and the evaporator or block it off and use front ac only. I ordered a block off kit. It will be here tomorrow. The rear has never worked anyway. Of course now I’ll start thinking about buying the new line…but what a huge amount of work that would be running that hard line all the way up to the front. I could really reef on that fitting now though, since I’ll have the block off kit in case I break it…
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It won’t let anything through at all. 120 psi. Pretty sure I’ll just block it off and use the front.
randeez
Full Access Member
the rear uses an expansion valve, youd need to disconnect the lines in the rear, remove it and flush out the rear evaporator
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I’ll give that line one last try tomorrow. It might be time to just block it off. Only thing I don’t like is the kits leave your lines just hanging in the engine bay. I guess I could cut them out of the truck. Seems so vicious though.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
What a big price difference.
Don't disagree with the delete if you can't flush it. Crazy, I never had that issue. But you did say your rear wasn't working before all this. I'm not sure I would like the hanging lines either. Great looking block off kit and great video. I really enjoy the South Main Auto videos. Good stuff on his site. Good luck during the rest of this project Mark.
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I see EBay sells a rear line kit that’s flexible but it’s $350. I might do it if I ever actually used the rear ac. But I’m not spending a bunch of money on this. I’ll remove the rear wheel and liner today to see if I can get something in there to pry with. If that doesn’t work I’m blocking it off.
Rear Auxiliary A/C Hose Kit New 2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Yukon XL | eBay
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Yukon XL. Fits for 2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Yukon XL. Rear Auxiliary A/C Hose Kit / Line Kit New. New Full length flexible rear A/C hoses, manufactured with superior aluminum & high pressure rubber hoses;.
www.ebay.com
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Well I’m officially over the rear AC. I pulled the wheel and liner and that gave me great access to this area. I then torched the fitting until there was something dripping out of it, then used a sharp chisel and a hammer to try and get some separation in the thing and I managed to get some oil to drip out if it but that’s it. It’s now officially fu*ked up. It’s seized to the stud and the mounting surface. There’s only one way that hvac unit is coming out, cut that line off. Maybe if someone sold just that end part and a line patch I’d do it but to me this isn’t worth it. I don’t like giving up but this truck is 20 years old and there’s some parts that just won’t come apart. If it was something that I needed to work or something I’d use, I’d spend the money for that hose kit and install a new evaporator but the dog can just stick his nose up front if he needs more cool. Im done with that. I’ll delete the hose ends in the engine bay so it looks good.
That stinks Mark. Atleast you have a solution in order to move forward and get A/C back in your beast.
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I got a couple parts in, still waiting on the line. The block off plate seems ok, could fit better but I think the main problem is the seals they included. They’re about twice as thick as the factory ones and when I installed the high pressure side and torqued it to spec it looked crooked, didn’t sit flat. I tried it with a new stock seal and it looks fine. I feel better about it now.
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And I figured out what that line had been rubbing against, and it wasn’t the frame. Which didn’t make sense to me anyway. It was from when I was ballin on 26’s and had cut the inner fender liner because the tires were rubbing on it. So they started rubbing on the ac lines instead. Glad I’m replacing it but now I have to wait 3 more days to put this thing back together. Summer will be over before I have it on the road with ac again.
