Rear Control Arm Attachment Problem

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EddieC

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One of my rear upper control arm attachments to the frame of our '08 Tahoe rusted and broke. Viewing from the wheel outside the truck well it appears that the bracket to the frame is broken.
I haven't had the chance to find a lift to get a better assessment yet.

Who would be best to repair that? Body shop? Welding shop?
Are there any adjustments or alignments related to that repair needed during the repair needing a specialized frame shop?

Is that a critical part?
 

randeez

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One of my rear upper control arm attachments to the frame of our '08 Tahoe rusted and broke. Viewing from the wheel outside the truck well it appears that the bracket to the frame is broken.
I haven't had the chance to find a lift to get a better assessment yet.

Who would be best to repair that? Body shop? Welding shop?
Are there any adjustments or alignments related to that repair needed during the repair needing a specialized frame shop?

Is that a critical part?
i hate to say it but its going to be very, very hard to find a shop to fix it and take liability for it .
if the bracket rusted off the frame, itself cant be far behind. and probably wont know the extent till you start cutting away the rust until you find some good metal
critical part, it hold the rear end straight
 

OR VietVet

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I would assume a frame shop that has dealt with the rust problems in your area, would be able to deal with it but could get expensive. It all depends on what they have to do to have "good metal", as @randeez said. may need to get your insurance involved.
 
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EddieC

EddieC

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i hate to say it but its going to be very, very hard to find a shop to fix it and take liability for it .
if the bracket rusted off the frame, itself cant be far behind. and probably wont know the extent till you start cutting away the rust until you find some good metal
critical part, it hold the rear end straight

Looking closer the bracket didn't rust off the frame but rather rusted and cracked through down at the bolt level.
I called it a bracket but I think it's more like a bent plat attached to the frame tube.
It is understandable that is rusted because it's exposed to all that is thrown up by the tire and our state thinks nothing of throwing corrosive chemicals on the snowy roads.

From what I can see peering into the wheel well it seems that a steel plate fabrication might do it provided that there is sound metal to weld to.

I have a long time relationship with a meticulous retired welder that said he'd take look but I didn't know if anything special in setup is needed that would require a special setup (jig?).

There are a couple frame shops around but I know him and not anything about the shops.

The truck looks and runs good so it's worth the effort.
 
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petethepug

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Contact GM customer service and approach it as if you were just told by your shop that it occurred or you looked under your vehicle and found it.

Tell them you just got off the phone and the NHTSA and they told you to call GM because there’s also a TSB for the front sway bar link rusting off.

Ask them … this is still safe for my wife to drive the kids to her Mom’s house up in the mountains this weekend right? I’m sorry, what was your name? You’re so nice Sherry, can I have a reference number for this call?
 
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EddieC

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Pulled off the inner fender liner to get it fully exposed and cleaned it up with a chipping hammer.
Frame is ok as is the lower part of the bracket and a replacement bracket is being mocked up.
 
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EddieC

EddieC

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Contact GM customer service and approach it as if you were just told by your shop that it occurred or you looked under your vehicle and found it.

Tell them you just got off the phone and the NHTSA and they told you to call GM because there’s also a TSB for the front sway bar link rusting off.

Ask them … this is still safe for my wife to drive the kids to her Mom’s house up in the mountains this weekend right? I’m sorry, what was your name? You’re so nice Sherry, can I have a reference number for this call?
Why?
I would consider the blame on the town and state using corrosive melting chemicals and not GM after 16 years.
 
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EddieC

EddieC

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No one knows what town the vehicle is in or that corrosive elements were in play. Maybe I missed that when an internet diagnosis was requested.
Town is not listed because it's not relevant and frankly not anyone's concern. It's rust.
You suggested shaking GM's cage and pretend to have contacted the NHTSA and lie about it.
Maybe that's how some people conduct themselves but not me.
The question to your post was "why"? It's not GM's responsibility at the age of the truck.
I didn't ask for a diagnosis. It was a question about who might repair a rusted bracket on the frame.
No point now as I have previously mentioned, I have access to a qualified welder.
 
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Fless

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Town is not listed because it's not relevant and frankly not anyone's concern. It's rust.
You suggested shaking GM's cage and pretend to have contacted the NHTSA and lie about it.
Maybe that's how some people conduct themselves but not me.
The question to your post was "why"? It's not GM's responsibility at the age of the truck.
I didn't ask for a diagnosis. It was a question about who might repair a rusted bracket on the frame.
No point now as I have previously mentioned, I have access to a qualified welder.

Would like to see before and after pics, if you get them and are willing to share.
 

petethepug

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Dude, k'mawn. If I didn't bust your balls for getting mouthy on this forum you wouldn't like me. I know you live in the country, and I figured it's this one. Anything else I don't care either.
 

DBacon

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If the repair is on the left side, be careful to protect the gas tank from sparks. The metal lines on the top of the fuel pump rust also. You might find a pool of gas in the little well where the pump mounts.
 

iamdub

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If the repair is on the left side, be careful to protect the gas tank from sparks. The metal lines on the top of the fuel pump rust also. You might find a pool of gas in the little well where the pump mounts.

At this point, that might be an ideal way to "fix the situation", assuming he has full coverage insurance.
 
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EddieC

EddieC

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If the repair is on the left side, be careful to protect the gas tank from sparks. The metal lines on the top of the fuel pump rust also. You might find a pool of gas in the little well where the pump mounts.
Is that area atop the tank visible from somewhere?
I'd assume there would be/have been gasoline smell if there is a leak, right?
 

DBacon

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Well, I didn't notice any smell, with it in my garage with the door shut. When I pulled my tank, there was a lot of gas in that depression. I jumpered the pump relay to remove the gas, so I could handle the tank, as it had 10–12 gallons in it. I did cut a hole above the pump while I had the tank out for later use. My last GM required 8 fuel pumps to make it to 180k miles, so I am anticipating the same dum deal. If you do this, be sure to seal up around your access hatch as gas fumes in the people compartment could be very dangerous!
 
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EddieC

EddieC

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Well, I didn't notice any smell, with it in my garage with the door shut. When I pulled my tank, there was a lot of gas in that depression. I jumpered the pump relay to remove the gas, so I could handle the tank, as it had 10–12 gallons in it. I did cut a hole above the pump while I had the tank out for later use. My last GM required 8 fuel pumps to make it to 180k miles, so I am anticipating the same dum deal. If you do this, be sure to seal up around your access hatch as gas fumes in the people compartment could be very dangerous!
If you had a leak you didn't notice drips or a stain on the floor?
It would seem that the well over the pump would eventually overflow.
 
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EddieC

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All set and an artistic job of fabrication and workmanship.

Now, brush on or rattle can on bare steel? Any opinions?
 

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