RED TAHOE LS
Full Access Member
You did good, staying on him saved you 50 bucks, what a deal and hope they fit, well worth it. Good luck.
David g.......
David g.......
RBP running boards
- Thread starter AppocAlexx
- Start date
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
Looking at the pdf from their install instructions they should bolt up basically the same as ours on the stock running boards. Only thing I will find out when I get mine off is if the brackets on the RBPs are long enough and formed in the same config. If they are I will most likely have to drill my own holes in the pinch weld and up on the wall. I say that but have never really looked at the Tahoe to see if they look similar to the 1500s for mounting these up. The bracket to the right are the ones I am thinking I may have to fab up or buy from RBP, if I even need them. They seem to be there to help support weight. These steps are at least 40lbs each. If I have to do some major work on the steps it will be a good month or so till I can get these bolted up. Ill try and keep yall updated. If I can get this done ill also try and get some good pics of the work I did if anyone ever comes across a set like I did for a good price.
Lmk whenever. Not going anywhere
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Your bolting to the frame so if the brackets reach the frame you can make holes and tap them or look for the holes with rubber grommets in them and use the clips that are threaded on one side. Either way shouldn't be to hard if the brackets track the frame. Should look great. Follow up with how it went and pictures of it done.
Some bolt to frame but the factory boards on our trucks are right to the body and some diff boards on pickups use the body mounts
OP
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
These will bolt to the body just like the 1500 had them installed before. RBP doesn't make these to fit the Tahoe or at least that's what their website says. But I don't see why they wouldn't when they basically mount the same way as out factory boards. I took a glance under the Tahoe today and it seems that it is almost the exact same as the 1500s so I think this may be pretty fairly easy. Good thing I have don't many install of nerf bars and other running boards before.
@Galante damn I was hoping that I would be the first. O well we can all be dreamers. Still will for sure look good. And you post that pit saying it will look good on my white body, but I was just looking at them today thinking, uhmm they have some small dings and scratches maybe that means I should paint to match lol.
@Galante damn I was hoping that I would be the first. O well we can all be dreamers. Still will for sure look good. And you post that pit saying it will look good on my white body, but I was just looking at them today thinking, uhmm they have some small dings and scratches maybe that means I should paint to match lol.
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
Here they are painted white on a dodge, look pretty good I may have to rattle can that sht until I can get it prof done.
Happened to find it on google, sorry dude.....lolol
Here they are painted white on a dodge, look pretty good I may have to rattle can that sht until I can get it prof done.
Cant wait for you to finish, ***** gonna look good.
Im too lazy to look them up what do those rp boards new cost?
OP
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
This is how they started, for the Tahoe you for sure have to cut both ends to have them sit between the tires. If you want to throw these on a Burb then you may not have to shorten them at all. Both sides were basically cut to the weld where the two tubes connect. I forgot to get a picture of how I ended up cutting but without welding I just cut and bended inward some to make them rounded.
I used some U-Nuts and 5/16 x 1 1/4" bolts for hardware. You can use regular nuts but I chose the U-nuts so I wouldn't have to hold the nut with a wrench. The U-Bolts were put on the bars brackets.
I need to add a couple self tapping screws to each bracket to brace it to the walls, right now I only have the 5/16 bolts going through the pinch weld. Seems to be sturdy enough for now. I will get the bolts soon though.
This shows about how far they are off from the factory mounting holes. If you wanted you could completely cut these brackets off and use the one off our factor boards. Which I will most likely do when I get back home within 6 months or so. My brackets on the factory boards just came off where they connect to the board itself so they are no good anymore.
This bracket is the third from the front and I had to cut it completely off. If you can tell to the right of the bracket is a frame piece that I tried to work around at first but with bending and banging that bracket around it threw all the other brackets off alignment and would not sit right. The next picture shows how far off it threw the last bracket off. There was no way to make it work without completely relocating it by cutting and welding. I was not going to weld anything today.
Shows how far the furthest rear bracket was with trying to leave the bracket before it on and bending around the frame piece.
Here is one of the wired littles lifts or ears that I had to cut off. I had to cut two of them in order to get the brackets to sit flush against the wall and base of the pinch weld. I used a cut off wheel to get them off, pretty easy.
Just sitting on the jackets before I started drilling holes and trying to line up the brackets.
End product.
Sprayed a light coat of gloss black rustoleum and they look brand new.
Took me about 4ish hours. Setting on, taking off maybe 10 times trying to get the brackets just right. I ran out of time today, had to get the kids from day care. So I'm only running around with one side installed right now. And looking at the pass side, looks like its going to be a *****. Having the rear A/C seams to be a set back and may actually make this almost impossible, at least with how these are mounting up. Our factory brackets sit underneath the pinch weld, these sit on the top and the A/C lines are right on top of the pinch weld as well. I may end up cutting off the brackets on the bars and welding on the factory brackets in their place now that I have the brackets from the driver side.
What yall think.
I used some U-Nuts and 5/16 x 1 1/4" bolts for hardware. You can use regular nuts but I chose the U-nuts so I wouldn't have to hold the nut with a wrench. The U-Bolts were put on the bars brackets.
I need to add a couple self tapping screws to each bracket to brace it to the walls, right now I only have the 5/16 bolts going through the pinch weld. Seems to be sturdy enough for now. I will get the bolts soon though.
This shows about how far they are off from the factory mounting holes. If you wanted you could completely cut these brackets off and use the one off our factor boards. Which I will most likely do when I get back home within 6 months or so. My brackets on the factory boards just came off where they connect to the board itself so they are no good anymore.
This bracket is the third from the front and I had to cut it completely off. If you can tell to the right of the bracket is a frame piece that I tried to work around at first but with bending and banging that bracket around it threw all the other brackets off alignment and would not sit right. The next picture shows how far off it threw the last bracket off. There was no way to make it work without completely relocating it by cutting and welding. I was not going to weld anything today.
Shows how far the furthest rear bracket was with trying to leave the bracket before it on and bending around the frame piece.
Here is one of the wired littles lifts or ears that I had to cut off. I had to cut two of them in order to get the brackets to sit flush against the wall and base of the pinch weld. I used a cut off wheel to get them off, pretty easy.
Just sitting on the jackets before I started drilling holes and trying to line up the brackets.
End product.
Sprayed a light coat of gloss black rustoleum and they look brand new.
Took me about 4ish hours. Setting on, taking off maybe 10 times trying to get the brackets just right. I ran out of time today, had to get the kids from day care. So I'm only running around with one side installed right now. And looking at the pass side, looks like its going to be a *****. Having the rear A/C seams to be a set back and may actually make this almost impossible, at least with how these are mounting up. Our factory brackets sit underneath the pinch weld, these sit on the top and the A/C lines are right on top of the pinch weld as well. I may end up cutting off the brackets on the bars and welding on the factory brackets in their place now that I have the brackets from the driver side.
What yall think.
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Good shit, looks really good @AppocAlexx
HiHoeSilver
Away!
A LOT of work, but I gotta say, looks bad as can be.
OP
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
Thanks @Galante
@HiHoeSilver yes it was quite a bit of work but being that I'm one of few Tahoes that may have these now it was worth it. Plus I enjoy doing things like this. Especially when I actually find time to do them.
@HiHoeSilver yes it was quite a bit of work but being that I'm one of few Tahoes that may have these now it was worth it. Plus I enjoy doing things like this. Especially when I actually find time to do them.
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
dang now I have to update my SIG again.
If i can find them that cheap im doing it too.....
In all my spare time.......lolol
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
I would cut off factory brackets and weld to these steps and get new powder on them. This would be the best long term function.
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
I will for sure be doing this on the pass side since I have to work around the rear AC lines just gotta find time, but it will be soon.
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AppocAlexx
Darth Appocalexx
I didn't get any pic since I was trying to get it done in a hurry but with 4 hours I got the pass side done. Had to cut off the brackets from the bars. Then trimming and cutting the factory brackets off my old running boards to be able to fit and mount what was left to the RBP boards. I had to do some grinding to get the paint or power coat off the RBP boards and since I was in a hurry I was also not able to get some paint on them. That's on my things to do list before I leave. I still need to get back under there and screw a few more bolts into the wall for better bracing but once I do I will for sure get some pics of what I did for the pass side. Update later.
Also just a heads up im not the best welder so when you see these welds done make fun. They hold and that's all im happy about. I will work on my welding when i redo my work back home in the future.
Also just a heads up im not the best welder so when you see these welds done make fun. They hold and that's all im happy about. I will work on my welding when i redo my work back home in the future.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/calling-all-lifted-trucks.22190/page-11
@AppocAlexx
Just found this thread with these nerfs but i like the ones you have better..
@AppocAlexx
Just found this thread with these nerfs but i like the ones you have better..
