Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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anyone have any idea what this thing wants to see? it is (was) in the vacuum brake booster, swapped to hydroboost last go round . i assumed it just wanted to see vacuum so i hooked it back up to vac source. but last time it was running after driving for about 5 minutes the stabilitrac and abs would error out and disable itself.


ado-20819275_af_ml.jpg
 

Doubeleive

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anyone have any idea what this thing wants to see? it is (was) in the vacuum brake booster, swapped to hydroboost last go round . i assumed it just wanted to see vacuum so i hooked it back up to vac source. but last time it was running after driving for about 5 minutes the stabilitrac and abs would error out and disable itself.


ado-20819275_af_ml.jpg
no but if you have a tech2 and unplugg it and then run a diagnostic it should at least tell you what it is, or look up the part number on it and try and find out that way. where was it located kind of looks like it might be the fluid level sensor, if it is the fluid level sensor you should be able to just leave it out/unplugged
 

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You're talking about Stapleton42 right?
That's the one
Yea I dont think theres going to be anyway to avoid breaking those, I havent had any problems with driveshaft (yet) but being shorty and having true awd transfercase(ie front wheels not locked with rear wheels) I'm hoping will help. Its almost like leaving them sacrificial is better imo than breaking the trans every couple months
What were you running ET wise when you were NA? Seems like you had some pretty good luck at the track but I couldn't figure out for sure what your setup back then was.
 

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That was with stock heads and intake manifold though right? What about gears/converter, fuel?

Just trying to judge the ball park of where I'll end up. You're the closest comparison I have haha
 
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randeez

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stock heads with springs, stock truck manifold.

i did the cam/278mm converter/headers and tune, adjustable rear shocks and it got down to 13.5-.6, at that point I did:
4.11 gears, 4" exhaust, 90mm throttle body, the rest of the airraid intake (big filter/shield) and gained absolutely nothing lol
swapped the converter out to a billet triple disc 258mm and it started dropping times again.
 

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Ah okay, I just have the 3200-3400 258mm single disc. I suppose if I don't like it I can yank it out and see about a core/upgrade credit like I read about what they did for you.
 

Onebad1983

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That's the one

What were you running ET wise when you were NA? Seems like you had some pretty good luck at the track but I couldn't figure out for sure what your setup back then was.
I have met him in person and he's a really humble guy. He's learned a lot from everything he's done and he even let me sit in the LSXcalade!
 
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randeez

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no but if you have a tech2 and unplugg it and then run a diagnostic it should at least tell you what it is, or look up the part number on it and try and find out that way. where was it located kind of looks like it might be the fluid level sensor, if it is the fluid level sensor you should be able to just leave it out/unplugged


its the check valve that goes into the vacuum booster itself, hose runs to the back of the intake. I checked it with a multimeter hoping it was just a simple switch to let it know what position the check valve was in but not the case. three pins in it, across one pair of them is like 4800ohms across the other is like 5400ohms with no changes as you manipulate the check valve- i cant imagine it reads pressure like the map sensor as well but who knows. the check valve in it isnt spring loaded or anything it can be sucked/blown into with position (open/close) and stays there. i found a welding rod cap that fits it real tight so i am just going to try and move it to either position and see if it works. will borrow friends scan tool and see what the actual fault im getting the code for also could be unrelated all together
 
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its the check valve that goes into the vacuum booster itself, hose runs to the back of the intake. I checked it with a multimeter hoping it was just a simple switch to let it know what position the check valve was in but not the case. three pins in it, across one pair of them is like 4800ohms across the other is like 5400ohms - i cant imagine it reads pressure like the map sensor as well but who knows. the check valve in it isnt spring loaded or anything it can be sucked/blown into with position (open/close) and stays there. i found a welding rod cap that fits it real tight so i am just going to try and move it to either position and see if it works. will borrow friends scan tool and see what the actual fault im getting the code for also could be unrelated all together
ok, I looked under my hood and I see what you are talking about, no where for it to go on the hydroboost system? I wonder if it needs to be deleted from programming then, what I mean is to re program the bcm so it knows it has hydroboost now, did you get the hydroboost out of another gtm900? or was it a kit of some kind?

***I would try just setting the valve so it thinks it has vacuum, make it stay in that position and try running it that way.
 
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randeez

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ok, I looked under my hood and I see what you are talking about, no where for it to go on the hydroboost system? I wonder if it needs to be deleted from programming then, what I mean is to re program the bcm so it knows it has hydroboost now, did you get the hydroboost out of another gtm900? or was it a kit of some kind?

***I would try just setting the valve so it thinks it has vacuum, make it stay in that position and try running it that way.

any idea if can you make changes in the BCM with a tech2? or would i need to find a vehicle with the correct options and flash the entire bcm?
 

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any idea if can you make changes in the BCM with a tech2? or would i need to find a vehicle with the correct options and flash the entire bcm?
you should be able do it with a tech2 and acdelco tds (via computer usb serial adapter/tech2 passthru), but you will need to know the specific rpo codes you want to change. The tdsweb programming is $40 for 2yrs of programming (per vin number) once you create a account and pay the $40 you can program it as many times as you want
 

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Well I guess let me see if having it just capped off accomplishes what I want. Mostly dont like looking at lights on the dash. Dont care about function
I would think as long as it shows having vacuum it would be fine, but gm does weird stuff my 18 Silverado has the active shutters in the Grill and apparently there a pia to circumvent
 
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randeez

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yep thats what i assumed last time ... i actually used it as a check valve for the pcv system so it would have vac on it. going to try it with no vac source and check valve in either position capped and then vac source with other side capped i guess

thought yesterday was going to be the day to fire up, ****** around and made a few changes to the tune all day yesterday, the rest of my parts came in (coil bracket/coil (broke one pulling the plug wire off), catch can fittings. got all my crap done at work and snuck out at about 3:15. anddd it took me 4 ****** hours to get home with accidents on 95 had it down to 1 lane in 2 places
 

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yep thats what i assumed last time ... i actually used it as a check valve for the pcv system so it would have vac on it. going to try it with no vac source and check valve in either position capped and then vac source with other side capped i guess

thought yesterday was going to be the day to fire up, ****** around and made a few changes to the tune all day yesterday, the rest of my parts came in (coil bracket/coil (broke one pulling the plug wire off), catch can fittings. got all my crap done at work and snuck out at about 3:15. anddd it took me 4 ****** hours to get home with accidents on 95 had it down to 1 lane in 2 places
that sucks, where I live generally there are alternate routes to take when the freeway gets jammed up, just have to be smart about it because every tom dick and harry will take the 1st alternate route and jamm that up even worse, so if you take the 3rd alternate it's usually clear, lol
 

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^^^ Yup. I have to check the live cameras before I go anywhere. Yesterday had me on the road for an extra 3 hours due to wrecks (It's hard to call it an "accident" with the way people drive) going to work, while at work and coming home.
 

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