questions on stall converter

[McLeod Crouch]

Hey guys! I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3 179k miles with rebuilt tranny (45k miles). Just put an 11-inch lift with 37s on. My problem is my rear main seal is leaking pretty bad. If I'm wanting to do a TSP stage 3 cam 216/220 .600 114 LSA, which I believe needs a 2600-2800 stall. If I install the stall now while the tranny is out would that lead me to any problems or anything? Or would it be best to install it with the cam? And I don't think it needs to be tuned after install.. right?

This is my cam list so far. My main concern is reliability because it is my daily.. I put maybe 15-20 miles a day on it.. it's a big truck I'm not looking for crazy numbers.

• Stage 3 5.3 Truck Cam 216/220, .600"/.600" (114 LSA) (25-TSP216220114)
• PAC 1219 Single Beehive Springs (For Cams Under 230 Duration) #97-PAC-1219
• Include Valve Seals (150-900FK x8 & 150-901FK x8)
• 7.400" Pushrods (25-7400-1)
• Rollmaster Single Row Timing Set - 1x Cam Gear (11-CS1180)
• Melling High Volume Oil Pump (122-MEL10296)
• Include TSP Pushrod Length Checker (25-PRChecker)
• Include Crank Bolt/Gasket Kit w/ ARP Bolt #28-CamGskKitARP
• Include TSP Rocker Arm Trunnion Upgrade Kit (25-TSPTrunnionUpgKit)

 

[mikeyss]

That cam will be nice, once you install it... With that said...
Installing that high stall of a converter with a stock 5.3 engine, you will HATE it. It will make the engine feel 'sloppy' if that makes any sense. If you can wait to fix the rear main leak while swapping in the cam, that would be ideal.
Any stall converter and you're gonna need a tune. The factory tunes the lockup feature to be 'nice' so to say. It varies the timing of lockup which can be several seconds. In a stall converter, you don't want that because you'll burn **** up. So you will need a tune to run a stall converter.

 

[McLeod Crouch]

That cam will be nice, once you install it... With that said...
Installing that high stall of a converter with a stock 5.3 engine, you will HATE it. It will make the engine feel 'sloppy' if that makes any sense. If you can wait to fix the rear main leak while swapping in the cam, that would be ideal.
Any stall converter and you're gonna need a tune. The factory tunes the lockup feature to be 'nice' so to say. It varies the timing of lockup which can be several seconds. In a stall converter, you don't want that because you'll burn **** up. So you will need a tune to run a stall converter.

Okay cool, thank you. I'll just hold off on it until then.

 

[swathdiver]

Hey guys! I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3 179k miles with rebuilt tranny (45k miles). Just put an 11-inch lift with 37s on. My problem is my rear main seal is leaking pretty bad. If I'm wanting to do a TSP stage 3 cam 216/220 .600 114 LSA, which I believe needs a 2600-2800 stall. If I install the stall now while the tranny is out would that lead me to any problems or anything? Or would it be best to install it with the cam? And I don't think it needs to be tuned after install.. right?

This is my cam list so far. My main concern is reliability because it is my daily.. I put maybe 15-20 miles a day on it.. it's a big truck I'm not looking for crazy numbers.

• Stage 3 5.3 Truck Cam 216/220, .600"/.600" (114 LSA) (25-TSP216220114)
• PAC 1219 Single Beehive Springs (For Cams Under 230 Duration) #97-PAC-1219
• Include Valve Seals (150-900FK x8 & 150-901FK x8)
• 7.400" Pushrods (25-7400-1)
• Rollmaster Single Row Timing Set - 1x Cam Gear (11-CS1180)
• Melling High Volume Oil Pump (122-MEL10296)
• Include TSP Pushrod Length Checker (25-PRChecker)
• Include Crank Bolt/Gasket Kit w/ ARP Bolt #28-CamGskKitARP
• Include TSP Rocker Arm Trunnion Upgrade Kit (25-TSPTrunnionUpgKit)

You need gears more than a converter with that set up (lift/wheels).

 

[mikeyss]

You need gears more than a converter with that set up (lift/wheels).

In 07, wouldn't he have 3:73 or even 4:10?

 

[iamdub]

Hey guys! I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3 179k miles with rebuilt tranny (45k miles). Just put an 11-inch lift with 37s on. My problem is my rear main seal is leaking pretty bad. If I'm wanting to do a TSP stage 3 cam 216/220 .600 114 LSA, which I believe needs a 2600-2800 stall. If I install the stall now while the tranny is out would that lead me to any problems or anything? Or would it be best to install it with the cam? And I don't think it needs to be tuned after install.. right?

This is my cam list so far. My main concern is reliability because it is my daily.. I put maybe 15-20 miles a day on it.. it's a big truck I'm not looking for crazy numbers.

• Stage 3 5.3 Truck Cam 216/220, .600"/.600" (114 LSA) (25-TSP216220114)
• PAC 1219 Single Beehive Springs (For Cams Under 230 Duration) #97-PAC-1219
• Include Valve Seals (150-900FK x8 & 150-901FK x8)
• 7.400" Pushrods (25-7400-1)
• Rollmaster Single Row Timing Set - 1x Cam Gear (11-CS1180)
• Melling High Volume Oil Pump (122-MEL10296)
• Include TSP Pushrod Length Checker (25-PRChecker)
• Include Crank Bolt/Gasket Kit w/ ARP Bolt #28-CamGskKitARP
• Include TSP Rocker Arm Trunnion Upgrade Kit (25-TSPTrunnionUpgKit)

If you're gonna go that deep into it, you might as well pull the engine so you can work on it way more easily. Do the cam and ALL seals while you have it out. The front and rear covers and oil pan all have tight tolerances to ensure the crank seals don't leak and the covers don't crack when you torque the bellhousing to them.

 

[swathdiver]

In 07, wouldn't he have 3:73 or even 4:10?

Possibly, but he's got an 11" lift (more weight and drag) and 37 inch tall tires. Picking a cam that loses 40-60 foot pounds of torque down low doesn't help either.

 

[THarber]

You have many things working against you. Gears would make an immediate change and give you the most bang for the buck. You'll probably need to go 4.56 to get that thing rolling.

Its best to do the rear main at the same time. You will have to pull the transmission loose anyway. The cam swap will require a pan drop, so might as well do it all at once. Since you're doing a cam I hope you're replacing lifters too and while you're at that you might consider some small chamber heads or at the very least milling your existing ones to gain a bump in compression. I think you're stock motor is about 9 to 1.

I would probably not recommend the high lift cam, once you get into .600 lift its hell on valve train. Look at some of the BTR stage 2 and 3 low lift cams. You want a cam that will build compression to help get you going. Also your LSA will bring power in too high, look for a 112 LSA.

Your stall would be better off in the 3500 to 3800 range, its not as high as it sounds.

My H2 that I built was AWD with a BTR Stage 2 low lift cam, 11 to 1 compression 6.0 and it would roast the 37's with a 2700 rpm stall and 4.10's but could still drive like a little old lady when you wanted to do so.

I realize you don't have those cubic inches but it was a nice set up.

Tim

 

[STORMIN08]

i always question the choice of cams that people make....i understand the overall power your choice will make...but at what cost for drivability ???

that cam probably makes real power at way to high of an rpm (especially with that tire size) to be useful on the road. to get that cam into a good range, a 2500 rpm stall at minimum with such a low gear for your tire...i dont tink you will enjoy driving it.

you will love listening to it idle, but to drive it...

 

[THarber]

i always question the choice of cams that people make....i understand the overall power your choice will make...but at what cost for drivability ???

that cam probably makes real power at way to high of an rpm (especially with that tire size) to be useful on the road. to get that cam into a good range, a 2500 rpm stall at minimum with such a low gear for your tire...i dont tink you will enjoy driving it.

you will love listening to it idle, but to drive it...

With a lock up converter, once you reach specified rpms, it stays locked so no more maintaining of the rpm is needed. So to get going from a stand still, it will rev to say 3000 rpm but then just putzing around it will run where you need it to be even if its at 1000 rpm and 15 mph. SO if you're running down the highway in over drive, its still going to run at 1500 rpm and 70 mph.

Tim

 

[STORMIN08]

i fully understand how torque convertors work...but again...DAILY DRIVING LIGH TO LIGHT, is what i comment about.

i have an older 1500 with a 425HP sbc, running a 22-2500 stall (L/U convertor), and i even get tired of that due to loud engine / exhaust note when running around town. highway is not issue in 4th and locked up.

 

[THarber]

Gotcha. I loved mine in the H2 but different beast. I'd put one in my Yukon given an opportunity.

Tim

 

[STORMIN08]

it would depend on the vehicle. most larger cams warrant it, but after not driving mine for a while...it just seems less comfortable for cruising around.

my other rides, a 3500-5500 convertor doesnt bother me. Just in my cruiser or daily, i could see where i would not like it. others may not notice, must be an age thing...as am liking less louder exhaust (still want a good tone, just not loud)

 

[THarber]

LOL I'm an old man...53 but these pigs need help getting out of the hole. I'm not into loud exhaust though. I need to be able to have a conversation in the truck as I am always on the speaker phone.

 

[STORMIN08]

so, slightly off topic of the convertor, but it may help others who are considering...at one time i was not a fan of throttle boosters, but since tuning my 17 burb, one of the biggest complaints i had was lack of movement from a stop.

i do have my throttle increased by roughly 12%, thus making peddle throw slightly shorter.

agreed, i could move my foot more and have the same result, but it didnt feel right to my body. now what i would call normal foot movement makes the vehicle move the way i FEEL it should. it has been of the best changes made to date.

i only run an 87 octane tune, firm shift with raise upshift psi, and increase throttle input %....totally different truck, and moves away from most traffic with no effort now

 

[iamdub]

so, slightly off topic of the convertor, but it may help others who are considering...at one time i was not a fan of throttle boosters, but since tuning my 17 burb, one of the biggest complaints i had was lack of movement from a stop.

i do have my throttle increased by roughly 12%, thus making peddle throw slightly shorter.

agreed, i could move my foot more and have the same result, but it didnt feel right to my body. now what i would call normal foot movement makes the vehicle move the way i FEEL it should. it has been of the best changes made to date.

i only run an 87 octane tune, firm shift with raise upshift psi, and increase throttle input %....totally different truck, and moves away from most traffic with no effort now

Italian Throttle Mod FTW!

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/S_sLzX5gzV0/maxresdefault.jpg

 

[STORMIN08]

I have that mod as well.