Power loss

[jerwilso]

Power loss​

2015-2020 Yukon
My 2015 Yukon loses power when hitting bumps. When cornering the wheel automatically overcorrects. I changed the negative battery cable but the problem still exists. Anyone has these problems, if so what was the fix. Thanks in advance

 

[rmaker]

My 2011 just did this, wife went over railroad track and said that the door locks clicked, dash lit up, and steering and brakes were extremely hard. She coasted a bit, then it all came back on. Dropping at shop now for some electrical diagnostics, not very optimistic though.

Have u noticed your headlights dimming and ac fan sort of browning out from time to time?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

Check the ground wire from the motor to the firewall, and check the ground cluster under the truck on its frame below the driver's seat.

 

[jerwilso]

My 2011 just did this, wife went over railroad track and said that the door locks clicked, dash lit up, and steering and brakes were extremely hard. She coasted a bit, then it all came back on. Dropping at shop now for some electrical diagnostics, not very optimistic though.

Have u noticed your headlights dimming and ac fan sort of browning out from time to time?

They won't find anything. I've been to 2 places. One shop specialize in electronics the other was the dealer. Well, $300 later still no solution. I did find there was a crimp in the negative cable connected to the frame. It worked for 2 days then got even worse after.
This morning my headlight flickered and the Service Driver Assist light came on.

 

[jerwilso]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

Check the ground wire from the motor to the firewall, and check the ground cluster under the truck on its frame below the driver's seat.

I replaced the negative cable. It helped for 2 days then got worse.

 

[Pivot]

I'm no expert, but this def sounds like a ground that's slowly giving up the ghost, or is just poorly connected. Here's a recent thread on the ground locations - more than just the negative from the battery. I hope you find it soon - electrical gremlins are brutal to deal with.

 

[jerwilso]

I'm no expert, but this def sounds like a ground that's slowly giving up the ghost, or is just poorly connected. Here's a recent thread on the ground locations - more than just the negative from the battery. I hope you find it soon - electrical gremlins are brutal to deal with.

Thanks for the reply. I found the one behind the drivers side wheel. It was covered in grime. Cleaned it off and will test it on my way to work. I hope that helps. New battery, new negative battery cable.. I guess I'll do the ground strap and look for the one in the cab.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I replaced the negative cable. It helped for 2 days then got worse.

Did you check the ground cluster under the truck on the frame, as I asked above? That is a major ground connection hub.

 

[jerwilso]

Did you check the ground cluster under the truck on the frame, as I asked above? That is a major ground connection hub.

I found the one behind the driver wheel and cleaned it. Is this what you are talking about? So far. I changed the negative ground and both grounds behind the driver and passenger wheels.

 

[jerwilso]

Did you check the ground cluster under the truck on the frame, as I asked above? That is a major ground connection hub.

When I cleaned the ground on the driver side. The problem got worse. The screen and power shuts off more often now. I cannot drive it.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

@Doubeleive @OR VietVet @Tonyrodz @iamdub @swathdiver @B-train

Thoughts and/or recommendations?

 

[OR VietVet]

When anyone is saying "cleaned", how are you cleaning it? If you are just cleaning the outside of it and not removing the bolt(s) and then cleaning all connections and the mounting surface, you are not cleaning it. Salt on the roads states are a blight to those grounds. People keep saying they are removing the negative battery cable and cleaning or tightening, what about the positive cable. ALL wiring that you remove should be inspected closely for corrosion getting under the end of the wire insulation. Not just cleaning the ends. Also, check at the fuse/relay box under the hood. Do a search for threads about finding connection problems there.

 

[jerwilso]

When anyone is saying "cleaned", how are you cleaning it? If you are just cleaning the outside of it and not removing the bolt(s) and then cleaning all connections and the mounting surface, you are not cleaning it. Salt on the roads states are a blight to those grounds. People keep saying they are removing the negative battery cable and cleaning or tightening, what about the positive cable. ALL wiring that you remove should be inspected closely for corrosion getting under the end of the wire insulation. Not just cleaning the ends. Also, check at the fuse/relay box under the hood. Do a search for threads about finding connection problems there.

Replaced the negative ground wire. Used degreaser to clean the frame, screw and the hole. Cleaned the end of the ground wire located on the driver side and the frame there too. Removed and cleaned the positive cable and reconnected. Thanks for your input. We are here for assistance.

 

[OR VietVet]

Replaced the negative ground wire. Used degreaser to clean the frame, screw and the hole. Cleaned the end of the ground wire located on the driver side and the frame there too. Removed and cleaned the positive cable and reconnected. Thanks for your input. We are here for assistance.

After finding and doing all that to all the ground locations, or even before that, I would check out the fuse/relay box under the hood. Do a search for those posts about all that.

 

[swathdiver]

Power loss​

2015-2020 Yukon
My 2015 Yukon loses power when hitting bumps. When cornering the wheel automatically overcorrects. I changed the negative battery cable but the problem still exists. Anyone has these problems, if so what was the fix. Thanks in advance

Without knowing the internal trouble codes, I would say your problem lays within the steering motor and wiring, it's electric.

My 2011 just did this, wife went over railroad track and said that the door locks clicked, dash lit up, and steering and brakes were extremely hard. She coasted a bit, then it all came back on. Dropping at shop now for some electrical diagnostics, not very optimistic though.

Have u noticed your headlights dimming and ac fan sort of browning out from time to time?

This is almost always a battery cable issue, either corroded or just loose, positive and more often the negative.

 

[Doubeleive]

there is a ground on the passenger side wheel well also just like the drivers side
there should be a ground for the electric steering also but I am not sure where that one is located
if you have a multi-meter start checking for voltage drop on the battery cable and ohm test any other grounds you can find
if the battery top multi connector with the intergrated fuses looks funky at all clean those also

 

[iamdub]

When anyone is saying "cleaned", how are you cleaning it? If you are just cleaning the outside of it and not removing the bolt(s) and then cleaning all connections and the mounting surface, you are not cleaning it. Salt on the roads states are a blight to those grounds. People keep saying they are removing the negative battery cable and cleaning or tightening, what about the positive cable. ALL wiring that you remove should be inspected closely for corrosion getting under the end of the wire insulation. Not just cleaning the ends. Also, check at the fuse/relay box under the hood. Do a search for threads about finding connection problems there.

Beat me to it. Sounds like OP's actually cleaning the connections, though. Good to confirm this.

@jerwilso, I agree with checking the fuse & relay center. Try to knock it around a bit with the key on and engine running. See if any of the weirdness happens.

 

[blackelky]

Without knowing the internal trouble codes, I would say your problem lays within the steering motor and wiring, it's electric.

Boogie woogie woogie

 

[blackelky]

Beat me to it. Sounds like OP's actually cleaning the connections, though. Good to confirm this.

@jerwilso, I agree with checking the fuse & relay center. Try to knock it around a bit with the key on and engine running. See if any of the weirdness happens.

Cleaning it with degreaser or hitting it lightly with sandpaper to make a better connection?

 

[iamdub]

Cleaning it with degreaser or hitting it lightly with sandpaper to make a better connection?

If knocking on it from various sides with a rubber mallet or handle of a hammer or block of wood makes it act up, it could be a faulty internal connection(s). Next step is to unlock and separate the two halves to inspect for corrosion. Align the top with the bottom and shove it into place. Maybe pull it up a little and shove it once or twice more. Lock it down and test.