Need Good CKP Active Counter Graph; Intermittant Loss of Signal

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Goldwing2000

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2011 Tahoe LS 2WD, completely stock, 150k miles, Texas vehicle so no excessive corrosion issues

Can someone take a screenshot of their known good CKP Active Counter chart line? Chasing down the infamous intermittant CKP signal loss and as far as I know, the active counter should steadily increase until it gets to a high value and then drop back to zero. My CMP Active Counter does this but my CKP Active Counter (when it works) is all over the place and fluctuates wildly. For reference, CKP AC on top, CMP AC on bottom, cold engine:

Screenshot_20260421-081740.png


I feel like this is an issue but the only other vehicle I have to compare to is a 2018 Mazda and it doesn't use a CKP Active Counter at all. If this is normal, then I can start looking in other areas. If it's not normal, I can start to figure out why (suggestions welcome).

The root issue I'm trying to solve is an intermittant loss of signal from CKP (Circuit A). Textbook signal loss symptoms: Engine will crank for an extended period and then start off of the CMP signal in low-power mode. Happens maybe 50% of the time. If I shut it off immediately and attempt to restart, it will usually set the P0335 code. Most times If I drive long enough to warm it up, then shut it off and let it sit for 15-30 mins (shopping visit, getting gas, etc), it will restart normally and run fine. Almost like something (maybe the CKP sensor) is heat-soaking and making contact, then allowing a normal restart on the next cycle.
I'm already well aware of the standard P0335 diagnostic procedure and will do that eventually but I haven't been able to catch it when it's actively failing. Most times when it happens, I have somewhere to be and don't have time to look at it and by the time I get home it's already working again. I've read quite a few accounts of other people who have had this problem, gone through the procedure, replaced CKP or ECM or both and still not solved the problem. I'm trying to be more methodical and not call in an artillery strike from the parts cannon. The battery is new (needed one anyway), the alternator charges correctly and the main ground on the left lower engine block is intact and not corroded (life in Texas, yo). I already replaced the CKP connector and the ignition switch (thinking it might be an intermittant power signal to the ECM... they're cheap parts). Have not replaced the CKP sensor yet but it's in my cart to buy (Genuine GM, of course). Voltage at battery exactly matches ECM/OBD voltage, so bad battery cables are doubtful.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
 

Doubeleive

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Not sure what your trying to discern from this data it appears to vary a lot, what tool are you using to read this in your screen shot? If the rpms are showing on your cluster then it's working
 
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Goldwing2000

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Is this exercise part of the diagnostic path for a certain DTC?
Yes and no. It's a root cause analysis to try to narrow down the focus of an issue without firing off the parts cannon. The DTC and the issue are both intermittant so I'm looking for anomalies when it's running "right". If that's a normal Active Counter graph, then I'll move on to something else.
 
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Goldwing2000

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Not sure what your trying to discern from this data it appears to vary a lot, what tool are you using to read this in your screen shot? If the rpms are showing on your cluster then it's working
Yes, it's an intermittant problem. It's working right now but it isn't always.

Tool is an Xtool D7
 

Fless

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Yes and no. It's a root cause analysis to try to narrow down the focus of an issue without firing off the parts cannon. The DTC and the issue are both intermittant so I'm looking for anomalies when it's running "right". If that's a normal Active Counter graph, then I'll move on to something else.

Well, depending on the specific DTC(s), you could view the diagnostic path for it at www.charm.li to see if there are certain tests you can make that would help identify a cause.
 

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