Possible to replace wheel studs without taking off calipers?

[Rayyy]

I just finished replacing all four calipers and rotors, broke in the pads, and realized I wanted to replace the studs too ‍

Is there a way to hammer them out and replace them without taking off the calipers/rotors??

Or do I have to take everything off again?

 

[Scottydoggs]

might be easier to take the hub off and pound em out with the flange on something solid so your not beating on the bearing inside. but in the end, unless one is broken why change em?

 

[OR VietVet]

It may take you longer to attempt that than to tear it down and do it right. I have never even thought to do it that way, so I don't even know if can be done.

 

[Alex_M]

Only way I'd do em is to pull the hubs/rear axles. I will replace one on the truck if I have a single broken Lug, but more than that and they're coming off and being pressed in/out.

If you're doing them at home pulling them in by the Lug nuts, then you're going to do more harm than good. I've never been able to pull one in with a Lug nut without damaging threads. They do make tools to do it that way, but I go back to if I need to do more than one why not use a shop press.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yep, if you are gonna do it, do it right. Pulling them in with lug nuts stretches the threads and then you are bolting the tire/wheel on that are between you and the road, at speed. Who knows, when and if the stud(s) could fail causing a big problem.

 

[nonickatall]

I just finished replacing all four calipers and rotors, broke in the pads, and realized I wanted to replace the studs too ‍

Is there a way to hammer them out and replace them without taking off the calipers/rotors??

Or do I have to take everything off again?

What is the problem to remove the caliper and the rotors? Only 4 screws, take it of and strap the caliper without disconnecting from the hose with a cable tie or piece of wire.

 

[MassHoe04]

Not sure I would want to be beating on them without removing the hubs (front) or the axle shafts (rear).

Pressing in with a hydraulic press would be best, but few taps with a hammer and something solid behind the flange for support is an option. Once out, tapping in new ones doesn't seem like it really takes much more than a hammer to get the studs seated.

With hubs and axles removed, you may find a mechanic or machine shop to press out the old and press in the new for you on the cheap...

Unless there is something wrong with the current studs, I would really not poke the bear.

 

[Trey Hardy]

I just finished replacing all four calipers and rotors, broke in the pads, and realized I wanted to replace the studs too ‍

Is there a way to hammer them out and replace them without taking off the calipers/rotors??

Or do I have to take everything off again?

I’ve had to reseat them on the side of the road before
Had to pull the caliper and rotor off

Shop diddnt torque the lugs before I left and the wheel knocked everyone loose
After getting the wheel off the majority fell inside the break rotor

Ended up using two wrench’s and a lug nut to seat them
Not the best way to do it but it got me home

 

[MassHoe04]

I saw the auto parts (NAPA, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc.) all listed a specific tool for stud install.
some kind of spacer with a conical indent to mate up with the lug nut. The back side is flat to go against the axle/hub flange. It looks like it makes the pressure even, so as to not damage threads on the stud.

Seems like it would be OK. That might allow the studs to be installed without beating on them.

You still have to knock the old ones out, so maybe back to the idea of something substantial to back up the flange and use the hammer to get the studs out and new ones installed.

 

[Rayyy]

I saw the auto parts (NAPA, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc.) all listed a specific tool for stud install.
some kind of spacer with a conical indent to mate up with the lug nut. The back side is flat to go against the axle/hub flange. It looks like it makes the pressure even, so as to not damage threads on the stud.

Seems like it would be OK. That might allow the studs to be installed without beating on them.

You still have to knock the old ones out, so maybe back to the idea of something substantial to back up the flange and use the hammer to get the studs out and new ones installed.

Is this the type you saw?

I have this one and was going to use it to install the new lug studs, which are slightly longer to accommodate the 10mm spacers I’d like to install.

I don’t want wheel adapters, which seem like they have more fail points than slightly longer studs and spacers.

 

[MassHoe04]

Is this the type you saw?

I have this one and was going to use it to install the new lug studs, which are slightly longer to accommodate the 10mm spacers I’d like to install.

I don’t want wheel adapters, which seem like they have more fail points than slightly longer studs and spacers.

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Yeah. Something like that, if not the same one... Since it is cone-shaped to match the taper of the lug nut, it seems like that would do a decent job at drawing the stud in straight without damage. Can't say for certain. I have never used one. But looks like it might be a reasonable option to me.

Seems better than trying with a lug nut alone to pull it in.
If I tried that tool, I might be inclined to put some axle grease between the cone-shapes surface of the tool and lug nut to eliminate any additional friction as the lug nut spins. Of course I would want to wash the studs and lug nuts down real good with Brake Kleen to get all grease off the studs and threads.

 

[03yukXL]

At least for the rear it can be easier just to buy a new axle. I have seen them for 40-50 dollars and they come with new studs installed. Do a rear end service, pull the c clips, pull the axles. Replace the axle seals while you’re in there.

Edit: ouch I guess I was thinking pre inflation prices. Axles now are looking like 100 bucks a side…