Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Same here--cranky old fker.I like it as it matches mine.Congratulations on a huge milestone.
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Same here--cranky old fker.I like it as it matches mine.Congratulations on a huge milestone.
Love it!!!!!!Same here--cranky old fker.View attachment 434802
Hey, that sense of humor is kind of rare, but incredibly refreshing, these days.Yea, old/crotchity/kiss my ass/eff you, unique sense of humor......got it.
When I walk in to my local AZ, they like me there. If it is available at their web site, I always have the part number looked up. I will also help a customer that is there asking a question that the counter people don't know about. But I always cut up and joke with them and throw in a few curse words for good measure. Two of the girls say that I remind them of their dad.Hey, that sense of humor is kind of rare, but incredibly refreshing, these days.
Me thinks that you have a lot of spare time on your hands.If you have followed this thread, you have seen when I retired in 2022 and was in Paradise, Ca. for a while and while there I got a brain fart and had my rear BOWTIE/TAHOE emblem and the CHEVROLET emblem, blacked out and then added white around the edges to make them stand out. After a while, the white was flaking off and then looked like crap. Been bugging me and so I ordered in new GM emblems and removed the old, cleaned and installed stock look emblems again. I was so in to the removal, that I forgot to take a "before" pic of the BOWTIE/TAHOE emblem, but you get the idea and can go back in this thread if you really want to see it. I like it much better now:
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Now I do. I have new front struts to do on a 2015 Chrysler mini van but waiting on a new cowling to come in. Have motorcylce work when part gets here. Waiting on customer for oil cooler lines, I have already.Me thinks that you have a lot of spare time on your hands.![]()
Hopefully it's just dirty contacts that you'd be able to clean up.Within the last 3-4 months I have intermittently been having problems with my master switch assembly on my driver's door. The one that controls locks, windows and mirrors. Intermittently the lock toggle would not work unless I repeatedly toggled it. I decided to get a new master switch assembly.
I contacted @915_Tahoe and gave the last 8 digits of the VIN and he came up with part #15883319. I had looked at RA and they only offered Dorman and Standard. One of the qualifiers was if I had adjustable pedals. I do but that is controlled by a different set of buttons mounted vertically above the master switch. I tried the usual GM parts houses and it was a no go because is "discontinued". I looked at ebay and found only 1 for $425.00 and the guy would not negotiate.
@915_Tahoe had told me list/retail/walk in price is $304.05. He also gave me a list of possible NOS at 16 different GM parts suppliers/dealers across the country. I started calling and a few showed the switch in stock but not on the shelves. My 5th call showed it and had it. I asked for a discount because of former shop service manager and military discount. He showed the same retail price of $304.05. We negotiated down to $250. With sales tax and shipping, they sent it via Fed Ex today for $290.45. I saved $54.05. Found it at Deboer Chevrolet in MN. Dealt with a great guy named Jake.
Now, on to another concern. I talked to my shop owner friend and he said that some, not all, master switches have their own module embedded in them and may not work if I just try to plug and play. I am gonna hook up my scanner and see if it sees a module and then I would need to upload to my scanner and then install the new switch and then download the info back to the new switch.
Other than the very intermittent lock toggle problem, the old master switch is fine. I will be taking that toggle apart and looking in to see what I can see. If a member wants it after that, I will sell cheap and ship for free.
Now, on to another concern. I talked to my shop owner friend and he said that some, not all, master switches have their own module embedded in them and may not work if I just try to plug and play. I am gonna hook up my scanner and see if it sees a module and then I would need to upload to my scanner and then install the new switch and then download the info back to the new switch.
Yea, I am aware that the phillips screw is there. I want to remove the panel anyway to lube the window tracks. The rear track intermittently has a very slight squeak when the top of window is about 6" from closing.Yeah, don't be tempted to leave the panel in place and rip out the DDM. You'd be sorry, unless it's been done before and that screw mount in the bezel is already broken.
On my 03, if my steering wheel is turned even a little and I use the right turn signal my high beams go on. And I have the Fleece light mod lol. Doesn't do it if the wheel is straight. For me to get the highs to not come on I have to pull in the stalk a little bit. I'm thinking it's the multi switch. It does have over 300k on it.So, looks like I am going to be spending a small amount of money on my Tahoe. Couple days ago my left t/s intermittently stopped flashing. The green arrow light would light up and stay on but was flickering a small amount. Right t/s always works. The left t/s works 99% of the time. I dug in and did some research, because in my build thread you will see that within the last 3 years I installed a new combination switch, Genuine GM part.
Research showed this is common for certain models from 1999-2007. Also showed that the problem is 90% on the d/s. Have to pop the dash cluster bezel off and then remove two 7mm screws and remove the lower cover under the steering column. To the left is the flasher relay/module. Two different part numbers at RA depending on RPO codes. I can get an aftermarket Novita LM487 or the Genuine GM 10383320. $64.94 for the GM, shipped from RA and discount included. I can get the same GM part at my local Auto Zone for $52.49 minus 10%. That blew me away. Thankfully, the process should take less than 15-20 minutes. I will post the results.
I do have a spare column that has one.I did my multi switch in my build thread when it was still working but stem was getting sloppy. I sold the old one. Yours sounds like the same switch.
Oooo, you’re gonna be in trouble for miles and miles.