Oil Pan Gasket Leak

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orange57

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Hey all,

I have a 2000 Tahoe Limited, right around 205k on it. Runs and drives great, but has had an oil leak for the last 50k miles. Started when I had to replace the front main, in which case I did the whole cover with the seal. Put in a new Felpro gasket at that time, and has been leaking ever since.

The last Felpro gasket, I had a buddy who was a mechanic take it to his shop, and he just gooped a bunch of sealant on the front and rear. It worked for a bit.

The gasket I installed was Felpro OS34500R. I installed it with no sealant, as that is what the directions called for. Took my time, made sure the gasket was aligned at the front and rear ends.

And upon initial start up it was leaking still from both the front and rear.

I did a little bit of reading and it sounds like these Felpro gaskets are not the greatest, anyone else have experience with it?

I've also ready that the timing cover can be the issue, which I have a plastic doorman unit.

So I'm contemplating buying a metal cover and going with an AC Delco gasket.

Anyone have any tips? It would be nice to have one car that doesn't leak oil. IMG_20200319_161300.jpg IMG_20200319_161137.jpg
 

drakon543

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valve covers and the oil pans are thin steel when the gasket was originally replaced did anyone peen the bolt holes out? even following torque specs with regular gaskets the holes tend to warp a bit. makes it worse when a gasket with anti crush rings are used as the metal will hit the crush ring before the appropriate pressure is applied to the gasket. also any place there is a sharp angle that needs to be sealed its a good idea to add a bit of silicone sealant in those areas. not alot your just trying to help fill in any gaps. also when you put the bolts in add a dab of sealant to the threads. helps keep the bolts torqued and some rtv stays on the pan to seal the bolt head.
 
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orange57

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Thanks for the reply. The holes were not peened out. The oil pan has some steel bars that clamp the pan to the gasket. I would say that are .125 thick or so. So the bolts don't directly touch the pan itself. There is another member in the joint.

This gasket said additional sealant want required. I almost added some though but decided not too.

I'm going to pull it off again and try it again. Dang it.
 

OR VietVet

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I know what you mean by that set of shims that are shaped like the lip of the oil pan and are supposed to even out the pressure. That just means that the entire length of where that shim lays is going to get pulled out from the inner and outer lip edges. It also depends on the torque spec you used for the oil pan and the sequence you used. The 4 bigger bolts at the ends are torqued more than the other smaller ones. I think, if I read it right, it is 162 inch pounds for the bigger nuts and the small are 90 inch pounds. Would start in the middle and work out and back and forth. Plus, that is an oil pan gasket set, OS34500R, and maybe it is the front cover seal that is leaking or the harmonic balancer is needed or needs a sleeve. Plus, like James said, whenever there is a change in an angle that is acute or a corner, I would do a dab of sealer. Plus, did it get completely cleaned and dried before reinstall. I wasn't there and have used Fel-Pro for years with no problems, as long as my prep was right. Sorry, but I got confused because you said you replaced the front main and then posted an oil pan gasket set number. Needs cleaned thoroughly and dried and then start and watch for the leak.


I hope you fix it, I do, but some details are not there for me to help much.
 

drakon543

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Thanks for the reply. The holes were not peened out. The oil pan has some steel bars that clamp the pan to the gasket. I would say that are .125 thick or so. So the bolts don't directly touch the pan itself. There is another member in the joint.

This gasket said additional sealant want required. I almost added some though but decided not too.

I'm going to pull it off again and try it again. Dang it.
ok ya if you pan has the shim plates messing with the holes are probably not needed. take something you know has a flat edge and set it against the pan to check how flat it is just in case.
 
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orange57

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I dropped the pan on Wed morning. It sat until Thursday afternoon. Cleaned both block and pan surfaces with brake cleaner and cloth. Made sure no oil was present.

I'll agree on Felpro gaskets, in general, I've used them quite a bit and they are always good quality.

I can see it dripping from that front area. I read a little bit about the Doorman timing chain cover can also be part of the issue. I'm about to order the Holley aluminum cover and an AC Delco gasket, as couple of things i've read are the gasket is a little better.

It's an inconvenience, but it isn't my daily driver. And I may have a little more time to work on it and get it right. Granted, I also need to do some work on my Saab sitting next to it too ha ha

Thanks for the replies.
 
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orange57

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Pan is coming over ff again this week. Will slather it with RTV in the corners
 

Rocket Man

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It’s very important that when you do the pan gasket or front or real seal that the 2 front and 2 rear spots where those gaskets meet have RTV added. It’s easy to see where that’s needed, maybe watch a YouTube if you’re not sure, and you don’t need to slather it on, 1/2” long and 1/4” high is good. There’s specific instructions, and make absolutely sure to follow the correct installation and torque instructions for the pan. That’s why the words are stamped in the pan, that it’s critical. Because it is. Be sure to re-torque the pan bolts again in a few hundred miles.
 
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orange57

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Got the AC Delco gasket today and the aluminum Holley front cover. Will start pulling apart again tomorrow.

The gasket is all one price though. The corners is where some put RTV. Gasket said not to. So i didnt. Probably should have listened to my instinct added it for belt and suspenders. But I also read that the rtv wouldn't adhere to the FelPro gasket and so wouldn't do me any good.
 

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