I have a 2002 GMC Yukon, 5.3 Lts engine with Flex Fuel 135,000 miles. I want to change the oil, and I would like to use Royal Purple 5W-30. Do you guys think that this is a good idea?. I have heard to many pros and cons about this synthetic oil. I normally use Mobil 1, 10W-30 Synthetic.
Oil Change
- Thread starter CLMT
- Start date
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I agree the price is steep, but I did happen to find the RP 5/30 five gallon tub for $115 on Amazon. The price comes down to just over $6 per quart then.
Went with a K&N filter, but wanted the RP ........ couldn't find one locally.
By the way, I also went ahead & did a tranny service with the RP & a Delco filter.
Win Win all the way around.
Went with a K&N filter, but wanted the RP ........ couldn't find one locally.
By the way, I also went ahead & did a tranny service with the RP & a Delco filter.
Win Win all the way around.
The oil that my Yukon has now, is Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage, but the last time I checked the oil level, it was low, I had to add 1 qrt. I took it to the mechanic and everythink is fine. That's why I would like to swith to another oil brand.
MASS-HOE'Z71
Full Access Member
I switched from mobil 1 to Lucas and eventually to royal purple with the k&n filter just because it has the little bolt that makes life easier. Runs great, real smooth and the extra buck or 2 a quart really doesn't matter to me. Figure right around $70 a week to fill the gas tank so the $60 every 3 or 4 months doesnt sting too badly.
Hmmm, I will probably get some flak, but I have seen way to many GM construction pickups go over 200-300,000 miles plus on plain jane oil. Thats with very lacks oil change intervals, and rough service.
Do you really believe it runs better, or is it because you spent 6 or 7 bucks a quart it has to run better.
Specs 5w30 going with higher viscosity level is not a good move the engines were designed for lower viscosity oil, and due burn about a quart every 3000 miles through the nature of the engines design. I know a GM engineer, and asked him about it.
The only thing I believe synthetics bring to the table is larger oil change intervals do to viscosity levels being more stable, and less dependancy on virgin crude. Other than that I would rather do a fresh oil, and filter every 3000 the cost is about the same.
If synthetics in the motor were so great I'm sure the manufacturers would spec it off the line......maybe not then they would not be selling more vehicles.
I have a buddy that sells Amsoil swears its the reason his ***** getter has 200000 miles. Well the truth is so do plenty of other vehicles that do not use it, or any other brand of synthetic oil.
Now if you are running a highly modified engine then the synthetics will give you a higher level of protection for tighter tolerances, and higher rpms. But a stock vehicle under normal driving I really see no benefit other than lining the synthetic oil companies pockets.
Do you really believe it runs better, or is it because you spent 6 or 7 bucks a quart it has to run better.
Specs 5w30 going with higher viscosity level is not a good move the engines were designed for lower viscosity oil, and due burn about a quart every 3000 miles through the nature of the engines design. I know a GM engineer, and asked him about it.
The only thing I believe synthetics bring to the table is larger oil change intervals do to viscosity levels being more stable, and less dependancy on virgin crude. Other than that I would rather do a fresh oil, and filter every 3000 the cost is about the same.
If synthetics in the motor were so great I'm sure the manufacturers would spec it off the line......maybe not then they would not be selling more vehicles.
I have a buddy that sells Amsoil swears its the reason his ***** getter has 200000 miles. Well the truth is so do plenty of other vehicles that do not use it, or any other brand of synthetic oil.
Now if you are running a highly modified engine then the synthetics will give you a higher level of protection for tighter tolerances, and higher rpms. But a stock vehicle under normal driving I really see no benefit other than lining the synthetic oil companies pockets.
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Well, I currently use it in a 2008 BMW TT (highly modified), 1998 Toyota 4Runner (more than 245K miles now) and currently the 2007 Tahoe with just over 100K miles.
Each vehicle runs better in a different way.
The BMW runs cooler with an average drop in operating temp of 15-20 degrees.
The 4Runner hasn't used a drop of oil or required additional oil since changing over.
The Tahoe was stated earlier.
Just for the record, the majority of new vehicles either recommend or require the use of synthetic oil be used in retaining the factory warranties. BMW oil caps actually state specifically to use Castrol Syntec.
Full synthetic oils DO and have been proven to show signs of breakdown @ 7500 miles. Synthetic users are getting (or should be getting) one oil change to every two of your oil changes. No big deal really.
Synthetic users are benefiting more if the vehicle is high mileage or used under abnormal conditions. If you're savvy enough to hunt down a good price then synthetic oil isn't going to be much more than a $1 or so more than your everyday motor oil.
And yes, there are differences between synthetic oils which is why some are approved by auto manufacturers and some aren't.
Keep in mind this is my opinion, and is oriented towards stock vehicles by no means am I saying that it is a negative effect to an engine using synthetics. I do believe your BMW does run a bit cooler do to it being highly modified with a tighter engine. Probably not something a stock motor would reflect though.
I have been in heavy construction for 26 years, and have seen my share of pickups, and equipment that get extreme duty. Pickups are usually always loaded above rating from day 1 brand new do to tooling of the trade. usually pulling heavy loads, and get neglected in the maintenance dept.
I have seen motors go to hell that have been faithfull maintained, and I have seen the neglected with out problems beyond belief. So for me its a proving ground. I do put high milage oil in my daughters cars do to the fact they forget to check the oil change milage, and they are not always around when I think of it, but they are getting better at it.
I have been in heavy construction for 26 years, and have seen my share of pickups, and equipment that get extreme duty. Pickups are usually always loaded above rating from day 1 brand new do to tooling of the trade. usually pulling heavy loads, and get neglected in the maintenance dept.
I have seen motors go to hell that have been faithfull maintained, and I have seen the neglected with out problems beyond belief. So for me its a proving ground. I do put high milage oil in my daughters cars do to the fact they forget to check the oil change milage, and they are not always around when I think of it, but they are getting better at it.
sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
Rp is good oil, but expensive. I picked up a 5 gal of mobil one from walmart for 25 bucks. I had to buy one individual quart of the same kind that was priced over 6 bucks a quart. How ironic is that? lol
No worries.
Different experiences = different opinions
I tend to track the BMW here & there so cooler by just 5 degrees matters. The 4Runner was taken on a 6500 mile road trip last summer and was changed to RP before leaving mainly because I'm a believer. High mileage and my somewhat abusive handling of the truck just reinforced my beliefs with the outstanding performance it continues to show me.
I should probably treat it a bit better, but then it might actually breakdown on me just to make a point.
Ok, Thank you for your help. I will think about switching form M1 to RP, I will keep investigating.
Is there any differerence between M1 10W-30 full Synt. and M1 5W-30 Synt. Truck & SUV?
One of my friends recommended me to use M1 5W-30 Truck & SUV.
Thanks.
Is there any differerence between M1 10W-30 full Synt. and M1 5W-30 Synt. Truck & SUV?
One of my friends recommended me to use M1 5W-30 Truck & SUV.
Thanks.
Frankhenrylee
Member
I have heard that you are not supposed to change from conventional to synthetic on higher mileage vehicles. I thought if you wanted to run syn that you needed to start that very early on. Can anyone out there speak knowledgebly about this old rumor?
That's true, but it was a long time ago when the syntetic oils were not compatible with some ruber seals. But, nowadays the majority of the synthetic oils are compatible even with conventional oils.
That's a just rumor that has been debunked to death, so I won't even try...as long as you don't have any current leaks, you're good to go.
I have had experience with converting to synthetic with a '91 Suburban 2500 with 150K and the wife's former '04 Z71 Suburban at 110K and had zero issues. The Denali was fully converted (ALL fluids) at 50K...
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