Noise steering drag? Front differential? Auto 4WD

[KR66]

I was thinking of getting 2 used CV axles and cutting the shaft down so only the spine was left this would effectively disconnect the front wheels from the differential! Until I can replace it see the photo of what I was thinking of doing this should not affect the suspension negatively just won’t have 4WD, I will have to remove the boot from the spline side of the axle and remove the shaft and bearings so there’s nothing left except a solid piece with the spline to hold the hub together.

 

[KR66]

I was thinking of getting 2 used CV axles and cutting the shaft down so only the spine was left this would effectively disconnect the front wheels from the differential! Until I can replace it see the photo of what I was thinking of doing this should not affect the suspension negatively just won’t have 4WD, I will have to remove the boot from the spline side of the axle and remove the shaft and bearings so there’s nothing left except a solid piece with the spline to hold the hub together.

View attachment 195719

I know this is a bandaid but I just dumped over $4000.00 into it and the $$$ are a little thin right now I thought it would have been something I replaced already the 3 garages I took it to kept saying the hubs or the CV joints even after I replaced them now that I have actual video and audio from under it while driving there’s no other explanation for it! How bad the Differential is? iDK? Maybe something easy to fix I did put almost 10000 miles on it with this problem and nothing has blown up or fell apart? This is one of those oddball issues! I’m thinking the previous owner ran it in 4H on dry pavement and messed up the front Diff

 

[Chubbs]

Before you direct 100% attention to the front differential, perform a thorough inspection on the diff' output bearings if you haven't already. The bearings & seals are inexpensive but the labor is fairly intensive for what it is. I definitely wouldn't replace the bearings & seals only without completely eliminating the differential as the origin. Draining the oil into a transparent container and sweeping with a magnet for metal particulate should prove a reliable indicator for any damage or ongoing fault within the carrier assembly as there would be visual evidence associated with such a problem.

if the output seals were compromised earlier in the vehicles history and fill level remained substantially lower than spec, bearing lubrication would become non-existent & the precursor to a failure. Check the fill level with something flexible before it is drained off so that you can apply it towards the diagnosis.

In conclusion, if the gear lube fill level is low and saturated with discernible metals = diff failure. Then a low fill level with no obvious metallic contamination = output bearing failure.

If the oil has not met the minimum factory requirements for removal/replacement there will be an obvious odor & color factor which is why the fill-level & metals saturation the reliable indicators.

I probably overlooked your confirmation of the service history or latest service which is why I went into detail so I apologize.

 

[KR66]

Before you direct 100% attention to the front differential, perform a thorough inspection on the diff' output bearings if you haven't already. The bearings & seals are inexpensive but the labor is fairly intensive for what it is. I definitely wouldn't replace the bearings & seals only without completely eliminating the differential as the origin. Draining the oil into a transparent container and sweeping with a magnet for metal particulate should prove a reliable indicator for any damage or ongoing fault within the carrier assembly as there would be visual evidence associated with such a problem.

if the output seals were compromised earlier in the vehicles history and fill level remained substantially lower than spec, bearing lubrication would become non-existent & the precursor to a failure. Check the fill level with something flexible before it is drained off so that you can apply it towards the diagnosis.

In conclusion, if the gear lube fill level is low and saturated with discernible metals = diff failure. Then a low fill level with no obvious metallic contamination = output bearing failure.

If the oil has not met the minimum factory requirements for removal/replacement there will be an obvious odor & color factor which is why the fill-level & metals saturation the reliable indicators.

I probably overlooked your confirmation of the service history or latest service which is why I went into detail so I apologize.

I serviced both the front and rear differentials about 4000 miles ago and used dealer purchased oil, when I drained The front Diff there was a little bit of metal on the magnet built into the drain plug but I didn’t think it was excessive for 270000 miles, it’s was a bit thick it it may not have been serviced in a long time. I did find s video on replacement of the output bearing on the drivers side, Your right it’s a lot of work! I may get a gasket and pull the cover to inspect the inside if possible? It it’s trashed it may be easier to just replace the whole differential! And rebuild the one I pull out.

 

[KR66]

I serviced both the front and rear differentials about 4000 miles ago and used dealer purchased oil, when I drained The front Diff there was a little bit of metal on the magnet built into the drain plug but I didn’t think it was excessive for 270000 miles, it’s was a bit thick it it may not have been serviced in a long time. I did find s video on replacement of the output bearing on the drivers side, Your right it’s a lot of work! I may get a gasket and pull the cover to inspect the inside if possible? It it’s trashed it may be easier to just replace the whole differential! And rebuild the one I pull out.

Do you think a bad output bearing was bad do you think it could cause a intermittent drag? I also noticed a Burnt oil smell after driving a while I thought was a leak from the engine somewhere but I think it’s coming from the differential! So it could be the bearing as you said

 

[Chubbs]

@KR66

Could be...

 

[Chubbs]

I was thinking of getting 2 used CV axles and cutting the shaft down so only the spine was left this would effectively disconnect the front wheels from the differential! Until I can replace it see the photo of what I was thinking of doing this should not affect the suspension negatively just won’t have 4WD, I will have to remove the boot from the spline side of the axle and remove the shaft and bearings so there’s nothing left except a solid piece with the spline to hold the hub together.

View attachment 195719

Careful, now...

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/psa-cheap-hub-assemblies.101520/#post-1217904

You effectively want to isolate the front wheels @ the hub per this project?

 

[KR66]

@KR66

Could be...

I will have to check it closer I hope the bearing race isn’t seized into the differential if it’s getting hot enough to burn the oil. If it is the differential housing may be scrap? I’m going to look at it this weekend if the rain stops.

 

[Chubbs]

Do you have a shop manual? Some of them contain diagnostic trees for problem solving various parts & systems

From what I recall there is only a press fit bearing & seal on either end. I haven't come across a single piece of literature or thread/testimonial of a spun output bearing. It's a needles in cage type of deal prob designed to self-destruct before interfering with the housing. I couldn't imagine a design where 1 would have to scrap a $2500 axle on account of $10 bearing

Some manual call for removing the whole damn axle to R&R bearing/seal but it can be done in place if you have the right $hit & know what you are doing. Saw a few vids on YouTube if you need a ref. But I don't want us to get ahead of ourself

You watched a vid for DS output bearing on YT: if it was the guy who removes the knuckle/spindle before first supporting it and has the lower arm unload full force, I would only ref that entire thing as "what NOT to do." That goof troop learned everything the hard way & proves a workshop manual is usually necessary as not to continuously overlook both the obvious & inconspicuous

I'm anxious to know what you will discover. Will be looking for updates. You are correct about servicing/rebuilding a donor axle then do a complete swap. Just have to match rpo build code for R&P ratios

 

[swathdiver]

I was thinking of getting 2 used CV axles... to hold the hub together.

View attachment 195719

I read that the latest Timkin hubs are for both 2WD and 4WD operation so that one does need the shaft to secure the bearing.

There's an extensive write up on it here for the GMT800s:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/yukon-down-awd-delete-headers-converter-etc.81191/

@01ssreda4

 

[Doubeleive]

myself personally I would just do this, R&R and go about my business
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-DIFF...ash=item3aad42d1ae:g:69MAAOSwzqFY9654&vxp=mtr

 

[KR66]

I read that the latest Timkin hubs are for both 2WD and 4WD operation so that one does need the shaft to secure the bearing.

There's an extensive write up on it here for the GMT800s:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/yukon-down-awd-delete-headers-converter-etc.81191/

@01ssreda4

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

 

[KR66]

Do you have a shop manual? Some of them contain diagnostic trees for problem solving various parts & systems

From what I recall there is only a press fit bearing & seal on either end. I haven't come across a single piece of literature or thread/testimonial of a spun output bearing. It's a needles in cage type of deal prob designed to self-destruct before interfering with the housing. I couldn't imagine a design where 1 would have to scrap a $2500 axle on account of $10 bearing

Some manual call for removing the whole damn axle to R&R bearing/seal but it can be done in place if you have the right $hit & know what you are doing. Saw a few vids on YouTube if you need a ref. But I don't want us to get ahead of ourself

You watched a vid for DS output bearing on YT: if it was the guy who removes the knuckle/spindle before first supporting it and has the lower arm unload full force, I would only ref that entire thing as "what NOT to do." That goof troop learned everything the hard way & proves a workshop manual is usually necessary as not to continuously overlook both the obvious & inconspicuous

I'm anxious to know what you will discover. Will be looking for updates. You are correct about servicing/rebuilding a donor axle then do a complete swap. Just have to match rpo build code for R&P ratios

I’ll keep you posted and yea it was the guy who forgot to put a jack under the knuckle lol he had trouble with the puller also!

 

[swathdiver]

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

150? Mine and my buddies 2007 Duramax Classic call for 177 foot pounds of torque. The bolts on the backside to the knuckle get torqued to 133 foot pounds. Double check since we're different generations and my buddy's is a 3/4-ton.

 

[KR66]

150? Mine and my buddies 2007 Duramax Classic call for 177 foot pounds of torque. The bolts on the backside to the knuckle get torqued to 133 foot pounds. Double check since we're different generations and my buddy's is a 3/4-ton.

It’s only a 1/2 ton and 150lbs is what the Mitchell guide says I checked several sources and they all say 150 for this year and model. And your running a diesel they have completely different suspensions yours is a lot heavier to handle the weight of that engine and all the extra torque. If you look at the video I posted you will see a lot is different between the gas 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton chassis does yours use torsion bars up front?

 

[swathdiver]

It’s only a 1/2 ton and 150lbs is what the Mitchell guide says I checked several sources and they all say 150 for this year and model. And your running a diesel they have completely different suspensions yours is a lot heavier to handle the weight of that engine and all the extra torque. If you look at the video I posted you will see a lot is different between the gas 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton chassis does yours use torsion bars up front?

Ok. Mine is a 1500 and my buddy's is a 3/4 ton and we both have the same torque spec for that bolt. Mine is GMT900 while his is GMT800. I had not heard of the torque spec that low but since the book says that, go with it.

 

[KR66]

Ok. Mine is a 1500 and my buddy's is a 3/4 ton and we both have the same torque spec for that bolt. Mine is GMT900 while his is GMT800. I had not heard of the torque spec that low but since the book says that, go with it.

It’s 155 I was off by 5 here’s one of the spec sheets I found it has several GMC product years listed with the specs the highest is See is 180 for a couple models becides the Yukon. Yours is newer than this list.

 

[garysam]

I thought of that I don’t think it could be the pads are ceramic and the past 10000 miles are wearing even, the drift and noise isn’t affected by braking, it’s there the loudest when cold (Sat at least 8 hours) it only became intermittent when I drove to Illinois for the 3rd time from South Carolina now it’s 50% after I have been driving for at least 30 minuets.

My '00 Escalade did exactly the same thing as yours (noise, drift) and it was a caliper hanging up. Check the temp of both front wheels with a temp gun after driving a while. Another thing to check is the 4wd switch in the front diff.

 

[01ssreda4]

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

Not to bust your balls here, but you show a great lack of understanding of how bearing assemblies (specifically tapered rollers) work. When a fastener holds a bearing assembly together, torque of the fastener is irrelevant. The force of the fastener as related to bearing drag is ALL that matters. Not sure if you ever did the old school brakes where the bearings were in the rotor and had to be greased? Same as most trailer bearings. By knowing the spec is 150ft/pds, you can GUARANTEE the fastener is NOT holding the bearings together. Not only that, in my thread linked above, I prove it doesnt hold it together by showing you it clamps the same metal in the front as it does in the rear, its a solid piece. The bearings are the only thing holding the bearings together, they are engineered that way. Also, this is common. I own a Durango that has 4wd hubs STOCK, and its 2wd. 165k miles and no failure to date!

 

[bottomline2000]

Does your steering have a dead spot in the middle that feels like slop or play? Also do you know why the power steering pump is whining?

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