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[Sparksalot]

Ok. I am taking a break from trying to figure this out and will humbly ask for some help from the knowledgeable folks here. Here are the wire bundles currently in question:

The first picture has no tag or markings but has these three separate bundles with these connectors inside: The black connector has a red and black wire (along with some others) that is hot when the ignition is off. The gray connector with the blue at the bottom has ONLY a red and black wire that is ONLY hot when the ignition is on (not running.) The third connector looks like some sort of phone charger plug similar to an older Motorola plug.

The second picture has a tag that is torn in the middle but the barcode scans out to "6G4". It has a single wire that loops around and connects back with the bundle. No clue on that one.

The third and fourth picture s has a tag showing "5W49C1" (photo 3). It has two heavy gauge wires (black and red) but there is no power there regardless of the key position. It also has several smaller wires in the bundle shown in photo 4.

I'll add a couple more bundles after dinner. Anyone with insight is welcome to chime in. ;-)

First pic is a head scratcher. The second one with light brown is your horn ring. That's the one to go looking for if your horn didn't work after decommissioning.

Have you looked at the GM Upfitter Guide for the wiring diagrams? There is a guide specifically for the PPV. It may answer a number of your questions now, and in the future.

 

[Lanman61]

First pic is a head scratcher. The second one with light brown is your horn ring. That's the one to go looking for if your horn didn't work after decommissioning.

Have you looked at the GM Upfitter Guide for the wiring diagrams? There is a guide specifically for the PPV. It may answer a number of your questions now, and in the future.

I have both the 2015 Tahoe 2WD Police Package 9C1 guide pgs 19-31 (several easier to read wiring diagrams) and the Special Equipment Options Section 15-1 through 15-17 but not an expert at reading the diagrams.

You have any ideas as to the 3rd and 4th photos? They come out from under the floor plate that the Troy Console bolts to. I suspect they are some of the main ones I need but since the heavy gauge qires have no juice regardless of key position, I have no idea what the issue is as to why not.

 

[89Suburban]

First pic is a head scratcher. The second one with light brown is your horn ring. That's the one to go looking for if your horn didn't work after decommissioning.

Have you looked at the GM Upfitter Guide for the wiring diagrams? There is a guide specifically for the PPV. It may answer a number of your questions now, and in the future.

The first pic the one in the middle looks like a USB-B mini.

 

[Sparksalot]

I have both the 2015 Tahoe 2WD Police Package 9C1 guide pgs 19-31 (several easier to read wiring diagrams) and the Special Equipment Options Section 15-1 through 15-17 but not an expert at reading the diagrams.

You have any ideas as to the 3rd and 4th photos? They come out from under the floor plate that the Troy Console bolts to. I suspect they are some of the main ones I need but since the heavy gauge qires have no juice regardless of key position, I have no idea what the issue is as to why not.

I’m guessing you also don’t have power at the two 50 amp feeds under the interior trim at the left rear wheel well. On thecopcar the main feed to the cabin had been cut. The mega fuse was also missing at the battery terminal.

 

[Lanman61]

You would be 100% correct! I've put an ohm meter on the two large fuses on the + terminal of the auxiliary battery (Picture 1) and they both test ok. All wiring that you showed in your previous pictures looks ok. Where would the best place to start looking for that break in the main harness? I did notice that the Ignition Controlled Charging Relay is still installed and hooked up (Picture 2).

I also located this in the box mounted above the main battery. Is this (Pictures 3-5) where I need to start looking?

 

[Sparksalot]

You would be 100% correct! I've put an ohm meter on the two large fuses on the + terminal of the auxiliary battery (Picture 1) and they both test ok. All wiring that you showed in your previous pictures looks ok. Where would the best place to start looking for that break in the main harness? I did notice that the Ignition Controlled Charging Relay is still installed and hooked up (Picture 2).

I also located this in the box mounted above the main battery. Is this (Pictures 3-5) where I need to start looking?

Are you sure the relay is functioning? Passing current?

 

[Lanman61]

Are you sure the relay is functioning? Passing current?

No. What's the best way to check it?

 

[Fless]

The first pic the one in the middle looks like a USB-B mini.

Agree completely.

 

[Sparksalot]

No. What's the best way to check it?

I’d try a short jumper to bypass it, then test the interior stuff again to see if it’s hot.

 

[Lanman61]

Anyone have the part number for the hub "caps"? I am missing one on the right front. I found the screws to bolt them on but not the caps themselves.

 

[Doubeleive]

You would be 100% correct! I've put an ohm meter on the two large fuses on the + terminal of the auxiliary battery (Picture 1) and they both test ok. All wiring that you showed in your previous pictures looks ok. Where would the best place to start looking for that break in the main harness? I did notice that the Ignition Controlled Charging Relay is still installed and hooked up (Picture 2).

I also located this in the box mounted above the main battery. Is this (Pictures 3-5) where I need to start looking?

aside from the 2nd pic those are all just fuses, looks like most have no connection a couple them are spares for whatever you want to add.
take note that if you happen to "blow" one of those "fuse" the entire assembly has to be replaced for the 1 fuse to work again as it is all one piece and runs about $100-120
I have done it already when I installed a bad amp and the amp smoked and blew the fuse with it.
the piece in the 2nd pic is the battery isolator for battery #2

 

[Sparksalot]

Anyone have the part number for the hub "caps"? I am missing one on the right front. I found the screws to bolt them on but not the caps themselves.

2016-2024 Chevrolet Wheel Trim Cap 23287648 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

2016-2024 Chevrolet part # 23287648 - Wheel Trim Cap

www.gmpartsdirect.com

 

[Sparksalot]

2016-2024 Chevrolet Wheel Trim Cap 23287648 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

2016-2024 Chevrolet part # 23287648 - Wheel Trim Cap

www.gmpartsdirect.com

@Lanman61 i had this bookmarked as an idea, but I decided to plastidip the chrome caps on thecopcar.

 

[Lanman61]

@Lanman61 i had this bookmarked as an idea, but I decided to plastidip the chrome caps on thecopcar.

I saw that on your acquisition timeline posts. ;-) They seem to be pretty pricey. I would do the same as you but not seeing the same thing in chrome. The link you sent says it doesn't fit my 2015 but a chrome one (https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-p...0YWhvZSZ5PTIwMTUmdD1wcHYmZT01LTNsLXY4LWZsZXg=) will. Nothing like the ones that are on it now. May check out some junk yards around town and see what I can scare up. if I can't get any new. Even RockAuto doesn't even show these but they hace the fasteners that hold them on. ;-)

 

[Sparksalot]

I saw that on your acquisition timeline posts. ;-) They seem to be pretty pricey. I would do the same as you but not seeing the same thing in chrome. The link you sent says it doesn't fit my 2015 but a chrome one (https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-wheel-center-cap-brushed-aluminum-bowtie-logo-qty-of-1-not-a-set-of-4-19301595?c=YT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz10YWhvZSZ5PTIwMTUmdD1wcHYmZT01LTNsLXY4LWZsZXg=) will. Nothing like the ones that are on it now. May check out some junk yards around town and see what I can scare up. if I can't get any new. Even RockAuto doesn't even show these but they hace the fasteners that hold them on. ;-)

Everyone is proud of them, new or used. I found the chrome ones are typically $100 each.

 

[Sam Harris]

2016-2024 Chevrolet Wheel Trim Cap 23287648 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

2016-2024 Chevrolet part # 23287648 - Wheel Trim Cap

www.gmpartsdirect.com

Damn, they’re proud of those..

ETA: posted before reading.. derp

 

[Lanman61]

2 questions:

1) If I was to just run a new connection from the rear electrical panel to the center console area, what would be the minimum wire size, fuse protection and routing (easiest, least amount of tear-apart needed)

2) If I was to just run a new connection from the center console area to the auxiliary battery area, what would be the minimum wire size, fuse protection and routing (easiest, least amount of tear-apart needed)

Getting tired of trying to chase down what is already there and what they all do. I'm not an expert at reading the wiring diagrams and none of them really show WHERE they are routed so the time it is taking is getting me down.

On another note, I found if I run a hot wire to one of the green wires (not stripped) in the harness marked 6J3, I can have the headlight/taillight flashers working.

Is this correct or should I be looking for another wire to run juice to?

 

[Lanman61]

Progress update: Slowly but surely I am getting things going. I've gotten all LED flashers working on the front. Debating with myself if I should add two more to the push bar. Opinions welcome. Also, updated the taillights & backup lights to LED bulbs. Had to use load equalizers for the brake lights/turn signals but I expected that. Got the lightbar working but I have another bar that I think has better patterns and, frankly looks better. Debating on whether to change it or not. Also, all LED flashers on the back end work and are wired together. No power to them so I need to hunt down the wire that supplies power back there. Also, I need to wire in the two (one on each side) on the sides to the mix.

 

[Sparksalot]

Progress update: Slowly but surely I am getting things going. I've gotten all LED flashers working on the front. Debating with myself if I should add two more to the push bar. Opinions welcome. Also, updated the taillights & backup lights to LED bulbs. Had to use load equalizers for the brake lights/turn signals but I expected that. Got the lightbar working but I have another bar that I think has better patterns and, frankly looks better. Debating on whether to change it or not. Also, all LED flashers on the back end work and are wired together. No power to them so I need to hunt down the wire that supplies power back there. Also, I need to wire in the two (one on each side) on the sides to the mix.

Definitely would look good with a pair of strobes on the pushbar.

 

[Lanman61]

Definitely would look good with a pair of strobes on the pushbar.

I agree that there is something missing from the front. I decided against the strobes like I already have and went with something different. I'll post more when they arrive.

On another note, since my Troy console went wherever the mechanic that was modifying it went (and didn't tell me where that was) I am hoping to work something out to pick up one that was taken out of a PPV. Waiting on some photos to check condition before making the drive from Phoenix to Austin to get it.